importance of the correct return jet sizing

My Novi 48 dribbled fuel like crazy with any sort of return restriction. Tim I think is the dude who made them. Who I message countless times and could not get to work based off their info.

Ended up removing the return and doubling up the check valves. Problem solved. Runs absolutely amazing. Don't believe all the bs you read on the internet.

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Location
Canada
My Novi 48 dribbled fuel like crazy with any sort of return restriction. Tim I think is the dude who made them. Who I message countless times and could not get to work based off their info.

Ended up removing the return and doubling up the check valves. Problem solved. Runs absolutely amazing. Don't believe all the bs you read on the internet.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
Can you explain more about this .... details !!
thanks
 
I doubled the check valves that feed the high speed circuit. Yamaha also makes a thicker one. Thats probably a better option.

Yamaha had mikuni make a special fuel plate for the non pv 1200 back in the day. It has a offset hole to alleviate some of the signal pressure on the valve. The 1200 had a ton, a ton, of signal. The popoff on them factory was around 65 psi. They would still dribble fuel. It was common to jb weld the fuel plate and drill your own hole. Basically do what yamaha told mikuni to do. It worked. I had a hell of a time tuning one a few years back.

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Location
Canada
I doubled the check valves that feed the high speed circuit. Yamaha also makes a thicker one. Thats probably a better option.

Yamaha had mikuni make a special fuel plate for the non pv 1200 back in the day. It has a offset hole to alleviate some of the signal pressure on the valve. The 1200 had a ton, a ton, of signal. The popoff on them factory was around 65 psi. They would still dribble fuel. It was common to jb weld the fuel plate and drill your own hole. Basically do what yamaha told mikuni to do. It worked. I had a hell of a time tuning one a few years back.

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When doubled the check valves you don't need to run any return jet ? Or you need to retune the calibration return circuit ? Thanks
 
I dont run a return. Yamaha never did. I think that's some xh20 stuff that only jet ski carb guys profess. My ski runs fine without it. How would adding backpressur to my fuel supply help negate fuel dribble? Of anything it would make it worse.

No one has explained the logic behind the carb needing a specific return pressure. Just people have swapped parts and said their setup magically works now. Thats shade tree and I dont listen to it.

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I dont run a return. Yamaha never did. I think that's some xh20 stuff that only jet ski carb guys profess. My ski runs fine without it. How would adding backpressure to my fuel supply help negate fuel dribble? Of anything it would make it worse.

No one has explained the logic behind the carb needing a specific return pressure. Just people have swapped parts and said their setup magically works now. Thats shade tree and I dont listen to it.

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Usually the restrictor is built into the carb, some aftermarket carbs have that drilled out and require an external restrictor. All carbs require some sort of restrictor whether it is built in or external, I'm not sure how you could be getting away with neither, might be that by chance your fuel lines are providing enough restriction, or you still have the internal built in and don't know it.

If you drill your internal built in restrictor and run an external one that is effectively larger to get lower fuel pressure, that is a way that it can reduce dribble.

I've never tried running with no restrictor at all, but I know it's a common problem for people with old kawasakis as some of those used carbs with external restrictors and people swap things around and end up with no restrictor and their ski doesn't run right, so it is not true that you will be fine with nothing. You might get lucky with a setup that by chance has enough restriction built in, but I don't think it's good advice that nothing is needed at all, most people with unmodified carbs don't need anything because it is built into the carb.
 
I should have clarified I guess

Yamaha doesn't shove jets into fuel lines. No oem does. So I don't. My ski rips through the entire range. It didn't according to the "God of carbs" that built mine. Go figure

I'd be willing to bet I could get my ski to rip damn near as hard as these custom 48s, as with some dialed 46s. For about a thousand dollars less. But they sure are pretty. Live and learn.

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Location
Canada
I should have clarified I guess

Yamaha doesn't shove jets into fuel lines. No oem does. So I don't. My ski rips through the entire range. It didn't according to the "God of carbs" that built mine. Go figure

I'd be willing to bet I could get my ski to rip damn near as hard as these custom 48s, as with some dialed 46s. For about a thousand dollars less. But they sure are pretty. Live and learn.

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Did you know if your return jet (oem built in restrictor) as been drilled in each carb ?
 
I should have clarified I guess

Yamaha doesn't shove jets into fuel lines. No oem does. So I don't. My ski rips through the entire range. It didn't according to the "God of carbs" that built mine. Go figure

I'd be willing to bet I could get my ski to rip damn near as hard as these custom 48s, as with some dialed 46s. For about a thousand dollars less. But they sure are pretty. Live and learn.

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The oems don't do it because they use carbs with a built in restrictors. I'm not saying that there is an advantage to drilling that out and using an external restrictor, I'm just pointing out that it is not good advice to use no restrictor on carbs that have that drilled out. You might be getting away with it but others could have trouble.

Not an advocate of drilling restrictors or setting the fuel pressure or any of that, I have no idea if it works or not, just know that you do need some sort of restrictor whether its the built in one or external, or there is a big possibility of trouble. Don't want people doing that.
 
Wide open. Novi drills them out. Lots of people just accept the dribble on the come down.

Fwiw my fuel pressure didn't change really at all. Maybe my gauge sucks. Maybe I live in a dream world. Maybe all this "tech" is hocus pocus. All I know is the master of carbs could not tell me what I needed to fix mine. And with NO RESTRICTION it runs great. Idles great. Revs great. Has excellent piston wash and is very conservative on fuel for what it is. So my tuning might be wrong. But it's miles better than what was recommended to me.

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Wide open. Novi drills them out. Lots of people just accept the dribble on the come down.

Fwiw my fuel pressure didn't change really at all. Maybe my gauge sucks. Maybe I live in a dream world. Maybe all this "tech" is hocus pocus. All I know is the master of carbs could not tell me what I needed to fix mine. And with NO RESTRICTION it runs great. Idles great. Revs great. Has excellent piston wash and is very conservative on fuel for what it is. So my tuning might be wrong. But it's miles better than what was recommended to me.

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Good for you, if it works it works I don't care if you use restrictors. What you're saying here is actually kind of advocating drilling, as you definitely have much lower fuel pressure than if you used the internal one.

I was only commenting for anybody else who reads this, if your thing works for you great.
 
Thats why I posted. For people chasing issues from "pros" on xh2o.

I advocate the fsm and mikuni way of dialing the carb. That's what worked for me. Reading the manual. Listening to people on here had me chasing my tail asking all sorts of other people what was wrong instead of listening to myself. Something I still haven't learned to do from the beginning. My new hobby you die of you listen to an idiot who thinks they knew better than the oem. Sorry for offering my experience.

I am not advocating any changes to oem fuel pressure. If you have some custom carbs some random.dude has modified beyond oem, you might have to do some off the wall stuff to get your carbs to work. Like I did.

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Location
dfw
The whole reason we use a pump and regulator is so the jetting stays as consistent as possible under varying head pressure from the tank. We always need a little pressure at idle, too much can cause problems with oversized carbs and/or low popoff. That is what tuning the return jet size is all about. Just set it and forget it.
 
Location
Canada
Wide open. Novi drills them out. Lots of people just accept the dribble on the come down.

Fwiw my fuel pressure didn't change really at all. Maybe my gauge sucks. Maybe I live in a dream world. Maybe all this "tech" is hocus pocus. All I know is the master of carbs could not tell me what I needed to fix mine. And with NO RESTRICTION it runs great. Idles great. Revs great. Has excellent piston wash and is very conservative on fuel for what it is. So my tuning might be wrong. But it's miles better than what was recommended to me.

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I doubled the check valves that feed the high speed circuit. Yamaha also makes a thicker one. Thats probably a better option.

Yamaha had mikuni make a special fuel plate for the non pv 1200 back in the day. It has a offset hole to alleviate some of the signal pressure on the valve. The 1200 had a ton, a ton, of signal. The popoff on them factory was around 65 psi. They would still dribble fuel. It was common to jb weld the fuel plate and drill your own hole. Basically do what yamaha told mikuni to do. It worked. I had a hell of a time tuning one a few years back.

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Over the last week-end ,I doubled the check valves on my 967 and i have to give a BIG THANKS to @Sparkplug member !!! The ski is now more crisper and no more fuel dribble ...
 
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