Super Jet In need of fast help

Location
GA
Long story short, my front cylinder is practically permanently rich. Can adjust high and low screws to make it run better, but still rich. Eliminated practically all problems and narrowed it down to 2. I'm assuming it's either the carb or reeds. Anyone experience this problem and find the solution? Need to order the parts today to have by Friday to get to work considering I'm moving into college next weekend so that's why I was asking of "fast" help, lol. Thanks in advance!! All advice appreciated


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sjetrider

615 Freeriders are addicted to T1 madness.
check needle and seat in that carb, Check front plug wire. if it is reads boat will run fine in high rpms but crappy in low rpms but check other 2 things first.
 
Location
GA
check needle and seat in that carb, Check front plug wire. if it is reads boat will run fine in high rpms but crappy in low rpms but check other 2 things first.

Swapped boots, problem stayed in front cylinder. Will check needle and seat considering I bought 2 rebuild kits so will break them apart and see if that's the issue. Now what you said about the reeds seems like exactly what is happening. No bottom end, where I can give it full throttle while in a turn and it doesn't even wanna pull me out of the turn, can just go in circles feeling like I'm going 5 mph. Top end isn't perfect either though, slower than it used to be


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Location
ontario
Just chased this exact problem for weeks. Pop off was way out to lunch for no reason. Thousand dollars later and s fresh top end and it ended up being a $2.00 spring in the carb and some fine tuning.. make sure needle and seat aren't leaking and popping off at the right pressure

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Location
GA
Just chased this exact problem for weeks. Pop off was way out to lunch for no reason. Thousand dollars later and s fresh top end and it ended up being a $2.00 spring in the carb and some fine tuning.. make sure needle and seat aren't leaking and popping off at the right pressure

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I sure will check that as well, thank you! Plan on checking most of these tonight/tomorrow morning so will post with an update afterwards! Any other advice still welcome
 
Location
GA
Just chased this exact problem for weeks. Pop off was way out to lunch for no reason. Thousand dollars later and s fresh top end and it ended up being a $2.00 spring in the carb and some fine tuning.. make sure needle and seat aren't leaking and popping off at the right pressure

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Did yours happen to randomly go bad over time? Because I haven't messed with anything and a month ago it ran perfect, now it's acting funny. Does it just happen on its own when the spring wears out?


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Location
ontario
Did yours happen to randomly go bad over time? Because I haven't messed with anything and a month ago it ran perfect, now it's acting funny. Does it just happen on its own when the spring wears out?


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Mine started with a weird running motor and loss of bottom end power. Looked further into it and notice some piston scoring but still passing compression test. Replaced pistons for piece of mind and ski wouldn't run. Wouldn't get going. Only had top end power if you were able to get the ski there.

Did multiple leak down tests. Electrical tests. Replaced e box and stator. Added a msd enhancer still same issue. Finally brought it to someone that knows skis inside and out and he was even stumped. 8 hours of tuning yesterday and trying every pop off possible, finally got it.

Went from 50psi pop off with 1.5 n/s to low 32psi pop with 1.5n/s and were back to where it was before all of this happen. All I changed was pistons and added blowision F/A with rain coats to prevent water from getting into the motor, originally had oem intake.

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Location
GA
Mine started with a weird running motor and loss of bottom end power. Looked further into it and notice some piston scoring but still passing compression test. Replaced pistons for piece of mind and ski wouldn't run. Wouldn't get going. Only had top end power if you were able to get the ski there.

Did multiple leak down tests. Electrical tests. Replaced e box and stator. Added a msd enhancer still same issue. Finally brought it to someone that knows skis inside and out and he was even stumped. 8 hours of tuning yesterday and trying every pop off possible, finally got it.

Went from 50psi pop off with 1.5 n/s to low 32psi pop with 1.5n/s and were back to where it was before all of this happen. All I changed was pistons and added blowision F/A with rain coats to prevent water from getting into the motor, originally had oem intake.

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Dang, stinks it has taken this long and made you spend all of that money just for it to be the spring... however, now you should be set for quite some time if everything holds up! Lol thanks for your input


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Location
ontario
Dang, stinks it has taken this long and made you spend all of that money just for it to be the spring... however, now you should be set for quite some time if everything holds up! Lol thanks for your input


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It better last the rest of the summer or it's gonna be a blow out sale haha. No problem and good luck!

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Location
GA
What type of carb shaft coupler are you using?

Not sure... is that the shaft that connects the 2 carbs? If so, it's yellow lol, that's all I know
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yamanube

This Is The Way
Staff member
Location
Mandalor
First thing I would check is throttle alignment between the carbs and that it stays aligned throughout the full range of motion.
If those are the set screw style couplers, they like to work loose and/or wear grooves in the shafts and develop play if left unchecked.

*edit
I have also seen those stone media style fuel filters clog with debris enough to limit flow and cause an issue. (can't tell if that is wire mesh or the stone type filter media)
 
Location
GA
First thing I would check is throttle alignment between the carbs and that it stays aligned throughout the full range of motion.
If those are the set screw style couplers, they like to work loose and/or wear grooves in the shafts and develop play if left unchecked.

Perfect, that'll be the first thing I check. Thank you!


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Throttle shaft bushings. Try to wiggle the throttle shaft. Remove the throttle cable and see if there is any up and down play, if so you need a throttle shaft rebuild kit. Once they gain movement like that they open an air gap allowing a lean condition to occur. This can easily be mistaken as a rich bogging condition and more so if the carbs are mounted on a stock intake. The stock manifold has a cross over tract which bridges both intake ducts. It is not noticeable by the outside appearance of the manifold but it is there and has an aluminum plate between the manifold and cases...why I do not know. It seems that bolting the manifold to the cases without it should be acceptable but I'm sure Yamaha has their reasons. Anyway, this cross over will retain some fuel charge and make lean conditions of one carb or the other a bit tricky to discern. One advantage to the cross over though is that if one side goes lean you have a little bit of proper fuel charge to transfer over and help support the situation, it probably has saved more lean seize ups than most guys realize. Just remember to look for the easiest possibilities first before diving in too far, as mentioned above, it could be right there in plain sight so to speak and overlooked every time.
 
Location
GA
Throttle shaft bushings. Try to wiggle the throttle shaft. Remove the throttle cable and see if there is any up and down play, if so you need a throttle shaft rebuild kit. Once they gain movement like that they open an air gap allowing a lean condition to occur. This can easily be mistaken as a rich bogging condition and more so if the carbs are mounted on a stock intake. The stock manifold has a cross over tract which bridges both intake ducts. It is not noticeable by the outside appearance of the manifold but it is there and has an aluminum plate between the manifold and cases...why I do not know. It seems that bolting the manifold to the cases without it should be acceptable but I'm sure Yamaha has their reasons. Anyway, this cross over will retain some fuel charge and make lean conditions of one carb or the other a bit tricky to discern. One advantage to the cross over though is that if one side goes lean you have a little bit of proper fuel charge to transfer over and help support the situation, it probably has saved more lean seize ups than most guys realize. Just remember to look for the easiest possibilities first before diving in too far, as mentioned above, it could be right there in plain sight so to speak and overlooked every time.

When I remove the front plug it is soaking wet. And it's only the front cylinder. Would your theory still make sense if this was the case?


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Possibly if you started adjusting the carb to compensate for what may have been misinterpretation. It has happened to us all at one point or another in our ski lives, sounds boggy, we lean it out, condition gets worse so we go back to where we started and then try going further out dumping the fuel to it. But if you have not made any changes, then another easy area to look at if you have it is your primer. If it is leaking then there may be additional fuel being dumped into the carb. Usually if a primer dies though it just stops pushing fuel. Other areas of interest are the return circuit of that carb, if there is a blockage in the return line or further inside the carb then fuel won't flow how it should and will back log into the carb. I have also seen the little clear flat valve hiding under the plate where your needle valve springs sits get bent and stay open. This will allow additional fuel to enter the air stream too.
 
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