Input on X2 hull mods?…etc

Any input on X2 Hull mods? So I got an X2 and I am hooked on them like crack now…typical right? Anyway, I have two hulls going right now and I am a little ways away from finishing either so any valid opinions that would help Me build a better ski are appreciated. I am in San Diego so it’s either mission bay that’s jammed up with boneheads or SD bay for some big wake action. The first hull I shaped with the intention of trying to float and 1100 but now I’m looking for a FPP 750 limited or SXR 800 pipe. So the second hole has a front fill and I’m leaving the bumper to block spray and cuz it’ll probably be the daily this summer…. my projects tend to get out of hand quickly. Right now plans for are a for a 2.25” stainless glass pack hollowed out in the right floorboard so the weight is farther back and on the right side to counter that heavy 1100 pipe on the left. But right now I’m thinking that a 2 inch TDR water box would be a better deal if I can find an 800 limited pipe…
 

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Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
My first and foremost advice is to take any advice with caution. I spent a lot of years modding my X2 chasing a level of performance I never reached. Here are some things I learned...

No one with an X2 can tell you what to do. There is too much frakensteining going on. My Superjet was easily setup by a builder, and the same builder left a lot on the table for a friends X2. Many people with Superjets and other models have a performance formula. Since bigger pipes don't fit, and we put bigger motors that are restricted, tuning is always a problem. It's often best to stick with a known 650 setup and enjoy, but if you do swap motors and pipes, know that no one can give you set answers on performance.

Next is what is performance, and that is in interesting topic. I spent years chasing performance. I found out later that the people who claimed performance often didnt have it. I was never pleased with my X2, but people who said they had great running X2, said mine was better, or I rode great running X2 and politely disagreed. Surf X2s were often setup as 10 second skis, that is they were tuned hard for bottom, which in my opinion, was often not a well tuned ski but a ski that was tuned to perform half the time. I could get great, say, midrange, but I never got a well tuned machine. Maybe the kawi motor was just ported that way, but my SXR, setup by the same builder as my superjet, was excellent. I think the mix and match of motors, carbs, waterboxes, pipes, props, etc, makes a very difficult formula to solve that is rarely reproducable (due to availablity of parts and cost).

Hull mods, well, I never rode 2 X2 that rode the same. One I could ride, the other I couldn't. We mix and match so many steering, steering adjustments, nozzles, trims, ride plates, etc, it's just simply not like jumping from 1 Superjet/SXR to the next. It's hard to say on hull mods because the X2 just doesn't seem consistent in handling from build to build.

With that said, here's some things i found over the years of trying different things with my X2.

The X2 rides amazing with 2 riders. This lets me know that the pump cavitation and poor handling has a lot to do with weight distribution. It also explains why leg dragging works.

The X2 needs to lean with a lot of weight pushing into the pump to stay hooked up. Sponsons and nose fills can hinder that, and I'm not sure, dispite many years of advocating for sponsons and noses, that they are a great solution, although, they do have their uses depending on what you setup.

Ride plates tend to follow the factory down slope, which is for a ski designed for 2 riders. I am not sure why aftermarket plates follow this same design. The ski is nose heavy, and works best (in my opinion) with a heavy load on the seat, so why do we need ride plates that push the nose down? Why do so few Superjets and other skis with more rear set motors and poles for leverage on the nose not have rake to push the nose down, but the X2 with a more forward motor and no leverage on the nose has so much pressure on the ride plate?

Swapping the stock seat latch with a GP1200 latch is a great mod, and I 100% recommend that.

The best my ski ever ran was with a stock superjet waterbox and a 2" rear exhaust. For a long time, I thought the water ingestion problems we have came from the intake, but after blowing up a 650sx and having loads of water ingestion problems with my X2, I think the waterbox is to blame. A left in, right out design is probably best. I have limited time messing with this, but I think a superjet box with a B1 outlet infront of the carbs could be a consistent winner, and while disclosing a lack of evidence, I think it's the way to go.

The best running X2 I have been on belongs to a friend, running a small pin 750, 650 (westcoast?) pipe, stock waterbox, 44mm carb, striaght blade prop and UMI steering. It is not the most powerful ski, but it is the most ridable ski. I think that the limitations of the hull and waterboxes limit the amount of power we can get out of our skis before we start having a lot of tuning problems. He went with an X2 because of mine, and I strongly advised him to keep it as close to 650 motor specs as possible (has a 750 but stuck with all parts that would be on a 650) and that has turned out, in my opinion, the best advice for any X2 owner looking to enjoy an X2. The exception is that water is still a problem in the surf, so i stand by my opinion that the superjet waterbox, a high point over the tank and a right side outlet is the way to go.
 
Funny you mention the gp latch mod. I just did that and a fresh purple cover. First time that seat saw water. You’re right, awesome mod. I don’t know how many times I biffed then 5 minutes later look down and that gd seat was gone. Lost one that way…

So, that ski was my baby…sp 750, SBN44, FPP limited(with mani and headpipe)with the bubble mod, drilled water box, timing advance, worx 202 and pump stuffer, impros hooker 9/15, chopped 2”, stock ride plate, extended nozzle,

I want that ski back…I haven't ridden many others but mine hooked up, hit, boned out at 50+ everyone that rode mine thought it was quick. Stock compression but run a little octane booster cuz the 6* timing advance-I never had a problem with getting hot or pinging…only BRAAAPP! Two lower screws on the head pipe were frozen when I got the pipe. I adjusted the top screw until chamber sizzles after I go hard for a couple min. I’ve gone the last couple winters when the water is in the low 60s…my ski loves it, hits hard for the whole tank. I haven’t had problems with water ingestion since I put an aluminum shield on the bottom of the hood between the intake duct in the hood and my carb to direct any water away from my fa. Before that it was a regular occurrence

I’ve already pretty much got this hull worked out and just need to glass it but am still second guessing the rear exhaust. The thing is the weight- it will be lighter than my stock waterbox by like 2# but it will be in the tray and be able to fill with water. Originally I intended to mod an 1100 pipe with center bleed and run this 2.25” stainless. Now the 2”
 
Aluminum TDR waterbox seems like the ticket as far as water ingestion. And I kinda like my side exhaust. I can keep it in the water and be quiet if I want…
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Funny you mention the gp latch mod. I just did that and a fresh purple cover. First time that seat saw water. You’re right, awesome mod. I don’t know how many times I biffed then 5 minutes later look down and that gd seat was gone. Lost one that way…

So, that ski was my baby…sp 750, SBN44, FPP limited(with mani and headpipe)with the bubble mod, drilled water box, timing advance, worx 202 and pump stuffer, impros hooker 9/15, chopped 2”, stock ride plate, extended nozzle,

I want that ski back…I haven't ridden many others but mine hooked up, hit, boned out at 50+ everyone that rode mine thought it was quick. Stock compression but run a little octane booster cuz the 6* timing advance-I never had a problem with getting hot or pinging…only BRAAAPP! Two lower screws on the head pipe were frozen when I got the pipe. I adjusted the top screw until chamber sizzles after I go hard for a couple min. I’ve gone the last couple winters when the water is in the low 60s…my ski loves it, hits hard for the whole tank. I haven’t had problems with water ingestion since I put an aluminum shield on the bottom of the hood between the intake duct in the hood and my carb to direct any water away from my fa. Before that it was a regular occurrence

I’ve already pretty much got this hull worked out and just need to glass it but am still second guessing the rear exhaust. The thing is the weight- it will be lighter than my stock waterbox by like 2# but it will be in the tray and be able to fill with water. Originally I intended to mod an 1100 pipe with center bleed and run this 2.25” stainless. Now the 2”

I have a similar setup, but the 10/18, which is too much even with a couple more light upgrades. I think I was dialed in close, except the prop being too tall.

If you wanted to use a larger waterbox and a right side exhaust, use a superjet waterbox and a B1 outlet. I have not done it but I believe you can route the exhaust over the fuel tank and outlet between the carbs and the battery. When I had this, I had a 550 tank and rear exhaust. I do not suggest the 550 tank or the rear exhaust.
 
I'd put tubbies on, shorten the rear 2 inches, get a rhaas squirrel cage adapter and a umi. Stock ride plate cut flush to the rear and call it a day. That's what I've done to my x2 minus the tubbies and it handles great for an x2
 
Location
dfw
X2s are effectively long hulls and have limited space in the engine bay. Moving the handlebars aft 6" gives the hull much better fore/aft balance for average sized riders. Making things fit in the engine bay requires some engineering and careful fabrication in order to keep it clean and reliable. The fact that nearly all X2s are old junkers now does nothing to help new riders become successful owners. Realize these things need to be completely overhauled before they will be fit to ride.
 
I'd put tubbies on, shorten the rear 2 inches, get a rhaas squirrel cage adapter and a umi. Stock ride plate cut flush to the rear and call it a day. That's what I've done to my x2 minus the tubbies and it handles great for an x2
Shortened the rear but I left the ride plate cuz I feel like I get on plane faster and think it helps with the hops. I weigh 150# so that definitely helps…got the squirrel cage and umi steering going on this build as for the tubbies…I thought about making some when I did the front fill but I think I might be better off buying some tubby 1 destroyers. Front fill is done now. Finally
 

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You're putting wayyyy more work than I would into a x2 haha but the front fill looks great! I'd consider that level of modification if I was going to build a race ski but mine is just a rec ski.
 
Oh, it gets stupid bro. I’m thinking about abandoning this idea now that I’m $100 in stainless steel. Honestly my last ski had a -2”otherwise stock hull, drilled waterbox and was super badass. Best noise in the whole world. Gurgle, gurgle, BRAAAAP!
 

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WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
The X2 is the 57 Chevrolet of the jet ski world, build however you want, it's your money and you are going to be riding it.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
The X2 is the 57 Chevrolet of the jet ski world, build however you want, it's your money and you are going to be riding it.

I 100% agree with this. People always give me a hard time about my X2 never running and I always tell them, that's the point. My superjet is bolt ons, always run and is a great ride, My X2 is like an old car. The thing I enjoy so much about the X2 is modifying it. I'd get it running and then take it apart again to try something different.

No one has solved the magic X2 formula like they have on other skis. Every X2 is unique. It's almost impossible to find a group of X2 and think that they are similar. The X2 community is different than the others, because the X2 community is often competing over who has fabricated the most unique build, rather than who has the best performing race/freestyle boat. It quickly gets old checking out superjets, even the different ones look the same. But X2, everyone is always working on some tight budget with some unique goal in mind and every piece of poop X2 on the beach is a custom hot rodded masterpiece.
 
Aluminum TDR waterbox seems like the ticket as far as water ingestion. And I kinda like my side exhaust. I can keep it in the water and be quiet if I want…
I’ve been out of the game for 5+ years and am now old but please don’t use that TDR. They are so obnoxiously loud. I had one and didn’t notice a performance difference between it, a drilled water box, and a sea doo box
 
Well, Maybe I should have tried a seadoo box.. TDR waterbox is super loud even though it’s the baffled one. I wear earplugs and stay away from people…the good part is it weighs like 4#, about half as much as the stock waterbox. Between that and a lipo battery I’d say I’m 15# lighter in the nose. Not sure if it makes more power but it’s louder so it feels faster. I moved my exhaust outlet back so I can keep it underwater and noise down - and higher so it’s not blowing out my sponson in a hard left turn
 

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