650/X-2 Inverting 1991 X2 for Glass Repair

kkosche

kkosche

Location
Lake Stevens, WA
Got some glass repair to do on my daughters 1991 X2. Plan on draining the tank and inverting the ski so I can work on the bottom side. Any harm or precautions in inverting the ski this way, for a month or so?

Thanks.
 
kkosche

kkosche

Location
Lake Stevens, WA
work, kids, wife, life, other projects, distractions, working on a wetbike, swapping a motor in a Malibu skier . . . . too much info yet?

Want to chop 2" of back, shave hood, revise seat to utilize a GP1300R latch, wire in a bilge, determine if I am going to glass in tank access (go internal fill), fix damage from last guy (popped nose into some rocks), practice some air brushing skills for the bond line on up . . .

As I look at what I just wrote . . . it might take me the full winter. I think 1 month was too much of a stretch.
 
Boris

Boris

The Good Old Days
Location
The surf-less coast
That inverted motor will put a ton of strain on the motor mounts.
I had my ski upside down for a few weeks but I jammed wood under the hood seal area to stop the motor from sagging. No damage done.
 
kkosche

kkosche

Location
Lake Stevens, WA
madscientist said:
ratchet srap from bond rail to bond rail over the motor.. solved..
Click to expand...

I wonder how that ratchet strap on the bond line will work with I pull out the paint gun . . . humm. I think I'll roll with the blocks of wood.

Also - your comment about an afternoon worth of work . . . maybe . . . but I don't got "Mike" skills . . . yet.

Thanks folks. Always great to get advise from those who know.

k
 
kkosche

kkosche

Location
Lake Stevens, WA
Most likely should start a new thread here . . . but I'll extend it a bit . . .

Plan to turf the rails . . so ratchet is a great idea. I just ordered my SEM 39747 and gun for the rear chop. So I think I am good there. Follow on questions, after spending an hour or so this morning reading past threads:

1. Paint recommendations for bottom of ski? Planning keeping the bottom white. Based on what I have read, rolling with a Interlux VC Underwater Epoxy should work. I am a little concerned about it adhering to the SEM glass structure thou . . . confirmations / recommendations?

2. Recommendations for top side paint? the VC only comes in white, unless pigment can be added (not sure). I would like a choice of some bold colors (mainly green and/or purple). Plan to airbrush over portions of the ski, above the bond line. Below bond line will stay white.

3. Glass repair. . . I have found many threads on this topic. My repair is not extensive. but the hull has been ruffed up on the nose from close contact with some rocks. Best thread I could find, comes from SilverSurfer . . . but his build is underway so no final outcomes of using the below products. Looking for a confirmation / or different recommendation. . . extract from SilverSurfer below:

635 2 Part Epoxy Resin w/Medium hardner (3-1 mix)
Fastco Epoxy Puddy Glule (instead of 3M 5200)
Aerosil-Cabosil Filler (for more structural areas)
3m Glass Bubbles (for less structural areas)
Assorted of Cloth from 12 oz Biaxial, Woven Roving, to 3 oz E-Glass for laminating the entire bottom of hull
Marine Tech I on inside of hull for high chemical resistance to oils

4. Last - I see some X2's with a tube brace running from the nose of the ski (over the gas tank) that ties into the hull behind the engine. Is this a custom piece, or is it something that can be purchased form Hot Products or the like? Couldn't find it with a quick search. Any guidance here would be appreciated . . . and recommendation if this is really needed for a lake ran ski with a mod'ed 650 and a 200 medium skilled rider.

Thanks all!

k
 
madscientist

madscientist

chilling with these guys.
Location
good old p'cola
love the tower brace, i run still run the jetskihaven brace in mine, but there is now the rad dudes option and it uses billet upper mounts instead of stamped stainless.


the brace triangulates the hull over the weak spot (the hood).
 
ADDict

ADDict

You can have the engine out in less than an hour not knowing what your doing.. Just pull it, it will make it so much easier to flip/hang and move around. Not to mention working inside it, etc. It'll be well worth your time.
 
madscientist

madscientist

chilling with these guys.
Location
good old p'cola
the surface prep is the key to longevity..

1 sand with 220 - 300 grit, then apply skim coat of epoxy with filler mixture,repeat sanding ( i sometimes will use a high speed disc sander with 220 pads to cut the surface) then apply several even coats of filler primer. wet sand that to around 400-600 grit, wash with mild dish soap and water, wipe with surface prep and tack cloth, them apply paint to your desired coat( several small coats will give a better finish.)
 
kkosche

kkosche

Location
Lake Stevens, WA
madscientist said:
the surface prep is the key to longevity..

1 sand with 220 - 300 grit, then apply skim coat of epoxy with filler mixture,repeat sanding ( i sometimes will use a high speed disc sander with 220 pads to cut the surface) then apply several even coats of filler primer. wet sand that to around 400-600 grit, wash with mild dish soap and water, wipe with surface prep and tack cloth, them apply paint to your desired coat( several small coats will give a better finish.)
Click to expand...


Thanks for the advice on the process. Any guidance as to the products / manufacturers to use in the process?
 
tom21

tom21

havin fun
Location
clearwater FL
not sure on the list for glass repair. epoxy is the only thing to use, cabosil will be all you need for filler, microballoons for small repairs dont save that much weight. grind your repair so it tapers out about and inch or two (bilge fitting I do 1 inch- larger repair the larger the taper) do this both inside and out. yes it will suck inside because of all the mount locations. if it was impacted I seem to think that the glass fractures like layers of paper and you can tap on them and hear a solid sound or hollow. where its hollow it needs to be ground out. yeah again I know it sucks lol, if it was easy or fun everyone would do it.

cut a small piece to just cover the hole. maybe lay some and a backer so you something to hold it in place. just do a few layers each one getting bigger then the last by say half inch or inch. let it cure, scuff and do a few more layers inside and out. reshape and now use the cabosil to make a putty to fill any small imperfections.

I like 3:1 epoxy and some thin cloth like 6 or 8 oz.
 
kkosche

kkosche

Location
Lake Stevens, WA
After the season, looking at the hull of my daughters X2, repairs are more signifiant. I just picked up a second hull. Much cleaner and no nose damage ($100). Starting to clean. Thinking about wrapping a portion of the ski, instead of embarrassing myself with an air brush.

Any one out there done a part (or full) wrap from jetskidetailing.com?
 
kkosche

kkosche

Location
Lake Stevens, WA
Bump. Still interested in the . . any opinions on wrapping a ski (previous post).

Also . . the hull I bought has some slight damage. Pictures below. Damage is about 2" long total. Guidance please. . . I assume I need to grind, feather, fabric, etc . . . or given what you guys see . . would I be OK with pressing some SEM into the damaged area and calling it good? Plan to paint the bottom of the ski with some form of epoxy paint.

309niom.jpg


2u6fxp2.jpg
 
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