WaveDemon
Not Dead - Notable Member
- Location
- Hell, Florida
I would run normal screw settings no matter where you put the cooling line. I don't remember if it's top or bottom. I would trust supertunes suggestion.
Is this the proper routing for the cooling on my B-Pipe???
- Thread starter FLY6584
- Start date
WaveDemon
Not Dead - Notable Member
- Location
- Hell, Florida
you've got a new pipe. it will be easy(ish) to adjust your screw settings, it shouldn't be a big worry.
WaveDemon
Not Dead - Notable Member
- Location
- Hell, Florida
how you run your cooling should be dependant of your pisser temp. I believe you want it to be 110-120.
Ask your neighbor #.0, he did an awesome build and talked about tuning water temps.
Ask your neighbor #.0, he did an awesome build and talked about tuning water temps.
- Location
- Clearwater, FL
Yeah I just got off the phone with FP and they said for bottom end I will close the bottom and middle screws and open the top one 3/4 of a turn.
They also said to only run the front line from the head to the headpipe and to run the second line from the head to a bypass. They said do not run both lines from the head to the headpipe.
I guess I will have to use a restrictor to get the flow equal out of each line coming from the head.
WaveDemon
Not Dead - Notable Member
- Location
- Hell, Florida
I was told to open the bottom a very small amount and use the top to adjust for power.
I think it went something like this:
hook head pipe up to hose, adjust water pressure to look like riding conditions. open bottom just enough to be a little 1/2 in fountain. open top screw less than 1 turn and adjust for power.
I think it went something like this:
hook head pipe up to hose, adjust water pressure to look like riding conditions. open bottom just enough to be a little 1/2 in fountain. open top screw less than 1 turn and adjust for power.
- Location
- Clearwater, FL
Appreciate all the advice Tim.
So do I really need to check the squish when I install this new head? Is there anything else I need to do besides torquing the bolts to the proper torque setting?
Thanks
So do I really need to check the squish when I install this new head? Is there anything else I need to do besides torquing the bolts to the proper torque setting?
Thanks
WaveDemon
Not Dead - Notable Member
- Location
- Hell, Florida
I think your normal ham and egger wouldn't. it's easy to do though. just need solder and a caliper. I've got them if you need them.
- Location
- Clearwater, FL
You lost me on that one Tim. :dunno:
I wish I was in town. I'll be up in Alabama until 17 Nov.:banghead:
WaveDemon
Not Dead - Notable Member
- Location
- Hell, Florida
I think most people don't measure squish on a new head going on a running motor. there isn't much reason not to though becuase the tools to do so are cheap.
- Location
- Clearwater, FL
Ok I gotcha. I'll see what I can do about measuring the squish. I'll do a search on how to do it and I might give it a try. I'm thinking I'll be alright though.
Thanks for the advice. What kind of grease do you recommend for the o-rings?
WaveDemon
Not Dead - Notable Member
- Location
- Hell, Florida
any that will make it stick to the head. vasaline works too.
SUPERTUNE
Race Gas Rules
- Location
- Clearwater Fl.
ADA heads are very consistant with squish clearences! Just Quit all the Fussin and put it on! They come right out of the box measuring in at .052-.050 on a uncut stock cylinder!
If you were having me build it from the ground up I would machine the deck down to tighten it up. but I'm not and I don't think your going to do it yourself so just put it on...your not going to have any problems! I glue all my ADA heads on with 3 Bond's 1211 silicone, but not needed for 35cc domes on a std bore 701 motor, as most of my motors have very high compression ratio's, In your case (pump gas compression) just install head with some bel-ray/or marine waterproof grease (nice and sticky).
On your single cooling line for winter...Go to hardware store and get two 3/8 'T's fittings, two 90 degree 3/8 barb X 1/8 pipe fittings and also pick up a 11/32 drill bit and 1/8 pipe thread tap, bum a 3/8 drill from you neighbor, drill and tap bottom of new manifold to put in a 2nd 90 degree fitting on bottom. Point the fittings at each other and install the 3/8 'T' fitting and hook up your single waterline in. Now do the same on the head use two 90 degree fitting with a 'T' back to a single line and connect to front of headpipe! Run exiting waterline off bottom of headpipe to the 'T' fitting that came with your new Factory pipe install kit, then continue to the new 3/8 bypass and 'T' off to jetworks valve and connect to stinger. Just leave the pipe settings as they come from Factory pipe for now, You can always add a little more later after you do all of you carb re-jetting and tuning! Now print this and get off the 'puter and just get it done! Chuck "I'm the 'SUPERTUNE' doing this for 20 years" Quenzler III
If you were having me build it from the ground up I would machine the deck down to tighten it up. but I'm not and I don't think your going to do it yourself so just put it on...your not going to have any problems! I glue all my ADA heads on with 3 Bond's 1211 silicone, but not needed for 35cc domes on a std bore 701 motor, as most of my motors have very high compression ratio's, In your case (pump gas compression) just install head with some bel-ray/or marine waterproof grease (nice and sticky).
On your single cooling line for winter...Go to hardware store and get two 3/8 'T's fittings, two 90 degree 3/8 barb X 1/8 pipe fittings and also pick up a 11/32 drill bit and 1/8 pipe thread tap, bum a 3/8 drill from you neighbor, drill and tap bottom of new manifold to put in a 2nd 90 degree fitting on bottom. Point the fittings at each other and install the 3/8 'T' fitting and hook up your single waterline in. Now do the same on the head use two 90 degree fitting with a 'T' back to a single line and connect to front of headpipe! Run exiting waterline off bottom of headpipe to the 'T' fitting that came with your new Factory pipe install kit, then continue to the new 3/8 bypass and 'T' off to jetworks valve and connect to stinger. Just leave the pipe settings as they come from Factory pipe for now, You can always add a little more later after you do all of you carb re-jetting and tuning! Now print this and get off the 'puter and just get it done! Chuck "I'm the 'SUPERTUNE' doing this for 20 years" Quenzler III
- Location
- Clearwater, FL
Sounds great. I got the head on last night and I'm putting the pipe on today. I'm going to try and have the manifold and pump tapped for me for dual cooling so I can run true dual cooling. I just dont have a drill or taps available to me and I don't want to screw up the manifold.
Now the big question is with a true dual cooling system should I run one cooling line to the headpipe and one to the manifold or both lines to the manifold?
See pictures below:
Attachments
i prefer not to split the engine/pipe cooling up and run both lines to the manifold.
- Location
- Clearwater, FL
Yeah thats the direction I was leaning also. I figure if you are running dual cooling as a backup option and not to provide extra cooling to your engine then you might as well set it up as a system that if one line clogs the engine can still run.
I'm also interested to know how this would differ with a second cooling line coming in from the pump?
- Location
- jersey shore
putting the 2 fitting's in the exhaust manifold and using the tee between them when your running single cooling keeps the both cyclinders at the same temp.
If you seperate the cooling from head and pipe
running one line to T'd manifold, out both head exits, t-back into one, and out restricted pisser
Running second line to bottom of pipe, out top of pipe, into valve, into stinger.
This would allow tuning specific of engine temp with restrictor and allow independent control of water through pipe. I would think this is better for accurate tuning of motor temp and pipe temp/water injection into stinger without effect cooling for motor.
Question though If you T the line before the jetworks valve at the stinger, is there enough pressure to open the valve (probably need it restricted)? Or could you just run to jetworks valve without the T before it? If the valve is closed, how much pressure builds up in the line at low RPM?
running one line to T'd manifold, out both head exits, t-back into one, and out restricted pisser
Running second line to bottom of pipe, out top of pipe, into valve, into stinger.
This would allow tuning specific of engine temp with restrictor and allow independent control of water through pipe. I would think this is better for accurate tuning of motor temp and pipe temp/water injection into stinger without effect cooling for motor.
Question though If you T the line before the jetworks valve at the stinger, is there enough pressure to open the valve (probably need it restricted)? Or could you just run to jetworks valve without the T before it? If the valve is closed, how much pressure builds up in the line at low RPM?
That's the exact setup I run.
On the flow valve, use a clear piece of tubing to the stinger for testing so you can see when it opens/flows and adjust as necessary to get it where you want it in the rpm range.