Hey guys, i have a 2000 sj, the motor was locked up. (I didnt find saltwater inside the case, it was dry except for my pb blaster that i sprayed down into the cylinders but it was locked up).I took the engine completely apart a week or so ago and I was able to free up the pistons and wrist pins, so now everything spins really smoothly., i just took the crank out of the case tonight and sprayed it down with pb blaster, took the pistons off the rods. My question is, how would i know if my crank is done? or can i reuse it becasue all the bearings spin smoothly? i dont want to go sbt, and i dont have a lot of cash to spend on this badboy, but i want to get her on the water soon.
it the crank junk?
- Thread starter badboyr6
- Start date
WaveDemon
Not Dead - Notable Member
- Location
- Hell, Florida
An SBT crank will be better than the one you have.
- Location
- savannah/hilton head
i would imagine if everything spins freely with no noise and its within spec it should be ok. im pretty sure you can get the specs from the shop manual. hard to say. i have been in a pinch before and have run a crank for a season that made some bearing noise. its not right but it held for as long as i needed.
OCD Solutions
Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
- Location
- Rentz, GA
What were the details that led up to the engine getting seized? If it was a good running engine that just sat long enough that the rings froze to the cylinder or the fogging oil solidified in th ebearings then there could be hope. Is there any sign of rust or corrosion? Got any pics?
- Location
- Houston/Galveston
X2
If that crank had bearings that were locked up, there is now pitting on the bearings. If you reuse it I can see the crank lasting maybe around an hour, then maybe taking out your top end with it.
- Location
- St.Louis Missouri
Yea your post makes it hard to tell if the crank was initially locked up and freed with PB blaster, or if it was just your top end seized.
If the crank had NO issues at all and you just simply sprayed PB blaster on it for the heck of it then it may still be usable. However if it had rough spots and you freed those with PB blaster...then you need to replace it.
Cranks aren't one of those things you just fix by spraying something on them. If they are noisy or have rough spots in them, they need replaced.
If the crank had NO issues at all and you just simply sprayed PB blaster on it for the heck of it then it may still be usable. However if it had rough spots and you freed those with PB blaster...then you need to replace it.
Cranks aren't one of those things you just fix by spraying something on them. If they are noisy or have rough spots in them, they need replaced.
the wrist pins were stuck. i sprayed pb blaster and then it freed it up. i just checked them now, and when i spin the bearings, they make noise (i hear the bearings spinning). so im guessing its shot? http://www.pwctoday.com/f148/yamaha-cranks-115-shipped-267556.html will this work? or can i find a better deal? but once i get the crank in, do i need new pistons and rings or can i reuse what i had before? i have No scarring on the cylinder walls, and the pistons were not very dirrty. rings look ok also
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i purchased the sj from a guy that had the ski sitting on his dock, uncared for. i brought it home and tried to turn it over. wont turn over so i took the head off and put some mystery oil down the cylinders. It still was stuck so i took the motor out of the hull, upon taking off the carbs, they were completly corroded with salt water. With a pry bar and some mystery oil down in the cylinders, i was abkle to unlock the motor. Once i was able to do that, i wired the starter up to a battery and turned the motor over for a little bit. It turned very slowly and i think the starter motor was on its way out.
From advice on the board, i ripped the motor open to find that the crank moved freely, but the reason why i could not get the motor to turn over by hand was because the wrist pins that connect the rod to each piston were frozen in place. I was able to spray pb blaster on them from underneath the pistons and it did the trick to where the pistons would rock back and forth on the rods.
i took the pistons off the rods last night and i checked out the wrist pins, they looked ok, just rusty color. ( i did spray some lubricant on them to clean them up a bit) i was going to clean up the cases and crank ina few mins and then take some pics and post.
The bearings on the crank do make noise when u spin it, but they spin without any hesitation, and there is NO freeplay in the rods or the bearings. thanks for your replies guys.
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WaveDemon
Not Dead - Notable Member
- Location
- Hell, Florida
if the rings and cylinder look good you can re-use them. keep them paired up with the same piston and cylinders.
jetski9010
Team RTYD
- Location
- Lancaster PA
You could run that crank it would just be at your own risk. I might last a few seasons it might last a few rides who knows. Your in FL there are a few good engine builders down there I would just send my crank to them and have them check it out. If they say it needs rebuilt then rebuild it. Better to do it right then to tear your motor up more if it lets go.
- Location
- Reno,NV
i used an identical crank on a cheap back up 701 for almost 2 years with no issues, a lot of cleaning and spraying down..and yes the barings made some noise but they spun free and easy....its your call..in my case it did the job
This is a no brainer, take a risk and use it, or get it fixed or buy a new-new or new -used one one
This is a no brainer, take a risk and use it, or get it fixed or buy a new-new or new -used one one
Maulin Marto
"I'll quit before I sit"
- Location
- IL. 60033 Near Cheddarland
Really? I'll take the oem yami crank with the etched bearings please. :veryhappy: