Jet Hot Coatings Never do Business with

#ZERO

Beach Bum
Location
Florida - U.S.A.
Powder coating tape is only rated too 400 degrees and ceramic coatings get baked between 600~700 for an hour on the final stage.

What's wrong with ceramic coating the pipe inside and outside?
 

#ZERO

Beach Bum
Location
Florida - U.S.A.
Just coat the whole thing; engines make more horsepower with the exhaust systems insulated.

They should be using high temp silicone plugs in the thread holes and not tape.
 
I sent my pipe to be coated over 2 weeks ago and they just now called informing me that I have to sign a release form waving all of their responsibility for damnge. I don't understand why it took them two weeks first off to contact me regarding this situation. Then they proced to tell me that it will cost $56 to second day air the parts back when ground is only 2 days away. I am at a lost for words. If it is not a set of headers from a car they seem to not be cofident in their abiltiy to do the work corectly. Take it from me and don't send your parts and or give them any of your business.

Which factory did you send your pipe to they have 2.
 

njfl

X-H2
What are the advantages to doing this?

Just looks and saltwater protection. The whole temperature insulating thing is irrelevant at the power levels that skis make. The only place where that is has really noticeable performance benefits (that can be felt) is in 3000+hp nitro or alcohol cars.
 

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
Looks are nice, but I don't personally care to spend money on looks.
I don't quite care to mess with engine temps either - mine seems fine.

I think #0 mentioned something about the exhaust working better with it insulated?

EDIT: Thanks Joe, just saw your post above this.
I guess corrosion protection is nice. Thanks for the info. :biggthumpup:
 

michael950

for me to POOP on!
Location
Houston, TX
Matt:

Read RiverRat's post on this subject from Project RiverRat


Ok, back to the hows and whys of the build.

Why I had those particular parts coated

For those who may not know, Jet-hot looks great no doubt but has allot of function to go along with those good looks. It contains ceramic material that in essence, insulates the metal in the exhaust system from the heat of the exhaust gases. This not only keeps the surface of the exhaust up to 60% cooler but by doing so can promote denser air/fuel charges by lowering the temp of the engine compartment. Cooler air = denser air. Not as big of a deal on a wet pipe but it non the less promotes a cooler parts. Anouther added benifit of the coating is that it is very smooth and promotes more efficient flow of gases through the system (specifically on cast aluminum peices like the manifold and headpipe).

The main reason I opted to get the parts coated was to protect the metal from the exhaust gases, acids that can build up in the exhaust, salt, corossion and mineral deposites that commonly form on hot exhaust parts exposed to water. That has always been a eyesore to me. Plus when the parts are disassembled they can be cleaned relativly easily b/c oils and other types of build up typically have a more difficult time sticking to the smooth surface of the coating.

The flywheel cover I had coated b/c it was a bare aluminum and I preferred to have that coated instead of polishing b/c of cost. I don't have the wheels and buffers readily availabe, plus I think it was about $25 to have that coated with expansion chamber. The coating on the chamber was only $70-$75 and that includes all the cleaning and blasting. I went over the pipe w/ a SOS pad before I sent it to their facility, but it was run for a season. Looks allot better than new now :biggthumpup:
 

njfl

X-H2
I think #0 mentioned something about the exhaust working better with it insulated?

I really don't think that it would be working better due to increased temperature contained within the chamber or headpipe. Perhaps, an auxillary effect of the coating is that it fills in all of the casting pits in the headpipe, manifold runners, and imperfections in the chamber, making the surfaces smoother and thus not having carbon and sludge build up as easily.
 
Looks are nice, but I don't personally care to spend money on looks.

How come you painted your ski then?:dunno:

I love it when people say looks don't matter and they could careless. Don't get me wrong looks aren't everything and they won't make you a better rider, but who actually likes an ugly ski.:dunno:

Personally I like my stuff to look nice if I can without spending a ridiculous amount of money to make it look nice. If I can spend a little here and a little there for a little bling factor then I probably will. Now I could never see myself getting one of those $2000 paint jobs:bigeyes: (not refering to yours matt).

I also think $80 to ceramic a bpipe is worth it. I'm sorry, but used bpipes with the oxidized look do look like crap. If you ceramic coat it they will look good forever like you see in #0's ski.:biggthumpup:
 

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
How come you painted your ski then?:dunno:

I love it when people say looks don't matter and they could careless. Don't get me wrong looks aren't everything and they won't make you a better rider, but who actually likes an ugly ski.:dunno:

Personally I like my stuff to look nice if I can without spending a ridiculous amount of money to make it look nice. If I can spend a little here and a little there for a little bling factor then I probably will. Now I could never see myself getting one of those $2000 paint jobs:bigeyes: (not refering to yours matt).

I also think $80 to ceramic a bpipe is worth it. I'm sorry, but used bpipes with the oxidized look do look like crap. If you ceramic coat it they will look good forever like you see in #0's ski.:biggthumpup:



My paint was free. :biggthumpup:

I didn't say I don't care about looks - I said I don't care to spend much money on looks. :biggthumpup:
So - you weren't referring to me with your rant.
 

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
I do what I can for looks, where it counts (i.e., not the bottom of the hull, and usually not so much inside the bilge), but I don't spend much on it.

I don't mind working, because my time is free. Sort of.

That said, I very much admire the work of folks who do. Nice looking stuff :purr:
 

#ZERO

Beach Bum
Location
Florida - U.S.A.
I found in my testing that these engines make a lot more power when the pipe is running real hot. I like to run my B-Pipe with the bottom screw at a quarter turn open and the rest all closed. I also run a 1mm restrictor jet in the stinger tip witch keeps it running extremely hot. When it had the factory chrome powder coating it used to make ticking noises and sizzle when water hit the pipe. After ceramic coating my chamber and waterbox it lowered the temperature to the point where the ticking noise is gone and the water stopped sizzling. Now the only problem I have is melting the long exhaust hoses on long WOT runs to the point where they get soft and start smoking. I just recently fabricated an aluminum long exhaust tube with silicone hose ends to take care of that problem.
 

njfl

X-H2
I just recently fabricated an aluminum long exhaust tube with silicone hose ends to take care of that problem.

Nice. Post some pictures after you install it (in a separate thread). Be careful though as your carb(s) vibrate quite a bit (easily up to +/- 0.5") and they may end up hitting the aluminum tube.
 

#ZERO

Beach Bum
Location
Florida - U.S.A.
Nice. Post some pictures after you install it (in a separate thread). Be careful though as your carb(s) vibrate quite a bit (easily up to +/- 0.5") and they may end up hitting the aluminum tube.

Yeah... your right, its going to be close with 44's even without a reed spacer plate? The aluminum tubing is will be the same diameter and thickness as the rear exhaust tube which was hard to find.

It's going to be a little while before I can post some pictures because the engine in pieces right now.
 
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