Super Jet jetworks flow control valve

[Dustin Mustangs]

It is a good idea to be restricting that line and a needle valve like he is using is specifically meant to accurately modulate flow. In fact, riva sells a very similar part for eleventy billion dollars. Keep it clear and adjusted properly and it will work fine. Put the fcv back on just up stream of it and you are in business. No need to make this more complicated than it is...

 

[D-Roc]

take it off, install the flow valve close to the stinger, have a tee before the flow valve with the 90 degree tee flowing over board, you can use your crappy restrictor here to restrict the water overboard or use the 2-4mm restrictors. this restriction will force the water to open the flow valve. man it is such a simple device. i can't believe people screw this up.

 

[Dustin Mustangs]

Boy, you like a really wet water box, eh? What is your reasoning behind this D-roc? Not trying to start a pissing match, just curious where you're coming from. Seems like you normally have some pretty good insight but most builders will tell you to do just the opposite.

 

[imabadfish]

Boy, you like a really wet water box, eh? What is your reasoning behind this D-roc? Not trying to start a pissing match, just curious where you're coming from. Seems like you normally have some pretty good insight but most builders will tell you to do just the opposite.

I agree. I was told something completely different. I have a TDR waterbox and I have to run it pretty dry

 

[Tyler Zane]

i hat to put a restrictor after the tee for the flow control valve because i simply didnt have enough pressure in my cooling system to open it. i have a 4mm at both pissers and 2mm at the stinger. it keeps water flow even and i noticed my piston wash is more consistent in both cylinders. before the front cylinder was way off because it was much cooler. thats one thing people dont account for. if your cooling is not even your piston wash will never be even. more carbon builds up when the piston is cooler.

 

[kevbo]

I agree. I was told something completely different. I have a TDR waterbox and I have to run it pretty dry

OMG, a dry TDR. I guess everything "FEELS" fast if it rattles your teeth.

 

[aramis]

I think everyone got carried away and missed the main mistake the OP was making...and it's not where the FCV should go or where restrictors should go, etc.

So, to reinforce what tzane said in post #2: the FCV is meant to OPEN at a certain pressure, not CLOSE at a certain pressure. You were pressurizing it from the wrong side and/or you installed it backwards.

 

[jetpilot08]

I think everyone got carried away and missed the main mistake the OP was making...and it's not where the FCV should go or where restrictors should go, etc.

So, to reinforce what tzane said in post #2: the FCV is meant to OPEN at a certain pressure, not CLOSE at a certain pressure. You were pressurizing it from the wrong side and/or you installed it backwards.

ding! ding! ding! We have a winner!

Just got of the horn with Art and got it all sorted out. He told me some things to do with my carbs to dial them in better. Also told me I may have to change out my spark plug caps for some NGK plug caps. I guess these use a resistor in the caps and the MSD caps don't which can cause some troubles.

 

[D-Roc]

if you don't restrict the tee the water will take the easiest way out, if the easier way out is easier than opening the flow valve you will be running a very dry box. the valve is closed until it opens. haha. my box is dry until higher rpm and then it opens the valve and water does its thing. you don't fill the waterbox at low rpms because it will take longer to clear it out. i have this backwards?

 

[5bulldogs]

i hat to put a restrictor after the tee for the flow control valve because i simply didnt have enough pressure in my cooling system to open it. i have a 4mm at both pissers and 2mm at the stinger. it keeps water flow even and i noticed my piston wash is more consistent in both cylinders. before the front cylinder was way off because it was much cooler. thats one thing people dont account for. if your cooling is not even your piston wash will never be even. more carbon builds up when the piston is cooler.

What are you using for restrictors?

 

[Tyler Zane]

i have this backwards?

no, but it could open up sooner than high rpm's. as long as its not open at idle its doing its job.

What are you using for restrictors?

http://www.jetworks.net/index2.htm the ones at the top. its so nice because as the water changes i can put different sizes in. when the water is below 60 degrees i run 3mm restrictors and raise my fcv pressure. when it gets above 80 ill just take the restrictors out all together and lower my fcv pressure more. maybe im just ocd...

 

[D-Roc]

yep which is why you check it like how you said and set it. i want mine open a bit higher than off idle, i figure without a tack, i get it open at about 3500 rpms maybe higher, i have mine set high.

 

[Tyler Zane]

yep which is why you check it like how you said and set it. i want mine open a bit higher than off idle, i figure without a tack, i get it open at about 3500 rpms maybe higher, i have mine set high.

not questioning your tuning but why do you like it set higher? any benefit?

 

[chriselmore_1]

I tried one for a min but went back to my old setup. Bpipe with the stinger capped and dry. Top and middle screws closed and the bottom open .5 turns. Just enough to keep the coupler from melting. It's a good idea to use a stock cut pipe to wb hose and not thay stupid fp elbow. Try it out. You might be surprised...

 

[D-Roc]

I tried one for a min but went back to my old setup. Bpipe with the stinger capped and dry. Top and middle screws closed and the bottom open .5 turns. Just enough to keep the coupler from melting. It's a good idea to use a stock cut pipe to wb hose and not thay stupid fp elbow. Try it out. You might be surprised...

bingo, i set my headpipe very dry as well. i also run my dual cooling as two seperate circuits. one for motor, one for pipe. if you ever take off your head pipe and clean it you will notice the build up of resin/oil. i use 50:1 premix. i clean and anti seize my three screws. i also closed them all and opened the bottom one just a crack as i plugged one water inlet and blew on the other. after turning about .5 a turn there is not much adjustment. i set mine about a 1/16 - 1/8 of a turn open just in front of the coupler to keep it cool. because i do not preheat the head pipe with engine cooling water, it stays cool with minimal water injection into the exhaust. the water box i keep as dry as possible. it takes no time to clear my water box when i am puttering around because no water is going it it, well just a bit maybe. when i crank on it the valve opens and quiets it but it doesn't collect much in the box at high rpms anyways. i also run front exhaust so i can see when the box is flowing water, which it does at higher rpms. i can adjust pipe settings and pressure without changing the engine cooling and vice versa.

 

[Tyler Zane]

i can adjust pipe settings and pressure without changing the engine cooling and vice versa.

now that i like, might try it out if i get bored one day

 

[D-Roc]

tzane when you feed the headpipe off the back of the head and then restrict and flow and do what ever tricks you want to do, do you compensate on the other head fitting to match it? it does depend on how you run your cooling but i keep my motor cooling consistant front and back so when i check my piston wash and plug readinds i know they should be running close in temps.

 

[Tyler Zane]

tzane when you feed the headpipe off the back of the head and then restrict and flow and do what ever tricks you want to do, do you compensate on the other head fitting to match it? it does depend on how you run your cooling but i keep my motor cooling consistant front and back so when i check my piston wash and plug readinds i know they should be running close in temps.

yes, but im liking your water routing better the more i think about it. its not my first time hearing about separte cooling for engine and head pipe but im starting to like the idea. do you use a Y fitting at the mani and run the two out the head pipe into another Y then out one pisser? the head pipe is self explanatory but im trying to figure out how to cool the entire engine evenly with two fittings on the mani and head, using one line. also what size restrictor do you use on the engine side and whats your water temps? i might do this tomorrow. also i like that i could bump up the pressure on the pipe even more so the adjustment screws are more responsive (spray instead of dribble, like in my low pressure system).

i love playing with tuning! my buddy is like do you ever just ride? i say, im having just as much fun making adjustments!

 

[D-Roc]

i run my engine circuit with the manifold inlets tee'd together. so it is one line from pump into this tee that feeds the exhaust manifold and cylinders then up to the head and out the front and back head outlets. i tee these back together. one line in, one line out is the final outcome of it. i have handle bar warmers for the cold water here and monitor my motor with them. for tommorrow's ride i am going to open my "5.00 restrictor " because last time out it was getting too hot to handle. once summer hits i dump motor cooling water over board, not on the bar warmers. i have un'teed the head during peak summer temps to run both outlets over board un restricted.

 

[Tyler Zane]

gotcha, thanks