Johnson outboard problem

[tnman]

I now that this is PWC forum, but you guys have been so helpful I thought I would go ahead and ask an outboard question. I have an older 90 Johnson outboard. I am still learning what I need to do to maintain it. I had some work done on it and the mechanic told me I didn’t have to “drain” this motor in the Fall. He said it would self-drain. It has been setting (not run) since last fall. Yesterday I opened the plug on the lower unit gear oil to check it’s color and it oozed out a yellowish milk color. My first thought is that it has water mixed in, but it is a thick motor oil consistency and should the water have separated from the oil if it has been setting? My question is what to do now. First, is this something I can tackle or should I just take it to the shop? If it is water, how do I find where it came in and what is the fix? Also, if there was water in the oil all winter is in able to freeze and cause greater damage? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

 

[SUPERJET-113]

Milky gear oil indicates water intrusion. Could be leaking in through drain plug, but highly unlikely. Have it pressure tested to see if you need a complete seal/o-ring kit, and new shaft seal. Then pressure test again after parts installed.

 

[SXIPro]

I am not convinced that has water in it. Pennzoil synthetic lower unit oil is that color. I'd pour it into a glass container and let it sit and see if it separates.

 

[Pro-pulsion]

The OMC (Johnson/Evinrude) lower units I believe use type C gear oil, the oil should look golden in color. If it looks milky then the lower unit is in need of a new gasket. The tech that mentioned no draining is only partially correct. The lake water it uses for cooling gets drawn up a tube and will gravity drain, but he should have said the lower unit oil should be drained and replaced every fall for this very reason. If the motor has a water leak down there, and the lower unit is not drained in the fall, the below zero winter temps could freeze the water in the lower unit and split it open. The marina I used to work in would warranty against any engine damages due to freezing if it was winterized before the first frost. If you brought your boat or outboard in after that, it was a tail light warranty, once we see your tail lights leaving the lot, your warranty has expired lol.

 

[Pro-pulsion]

I forgot to mention it but if you change the fluid at home, put your drain pan under there (obviously), take out the bottom large flat head screw driver plug first. You will most likely need an impact driver to remove the plugs...and no not an air impact. An impact driver is a large screw driver you smack with a heavy hammer. The force from the hammer shocks a frozen screw at the same time as the driver applies reverse torque. After the bottom plug is out, then crack the top one free. The fluid will only come out slightly when the top plug is still in because there is no negative pressure release until the the top plug seal is open. When filling, fill from the bottom up. It does two things, fills any air pockets as the fluid travels up, but also when it flows out of the top plug that is your full level indicator. Install bottom plug quickly first, then top, then go boating

 

[SXIPro]

I forgot to mention it but if you change the fluid at home, put your drain pan under there (obviously), take out the bottom large flat head screw driver plug first. You will most likely need an impact driver to remove the plugs...and no not an air impact. An impact driver is a large screw driver you smack with a heavy hammer. The force from the hammer shocks a frozen screw at the same time as the driver applies reverse torque. After the bottom plug is out, then crack the top one free. The fluid will only come out slightly when the top plug is still in because there is no negative pressure release until the the top plug seal is open. When filling, fill from the bottom up. It does two things, fills any air pockets as the fluid travels up, but also when it flows out of the top plug that is your full level indicator. Install bottom plug quickly first, then top, then go boating

Do you find the impact driver mostly necessary on motors run in the salt? I've owned/maintained a couple dozen 100% freshwater outboards in my days and never had an issue removing the two screws you mention using a plain old screwdriver.

 

[bird]

First,
If it's older than it's a 2 stroke, so no crankcase oil to change, just the lower unit gear lube.
Second
The Johnson 15hp I worked on was a float bowl carb, yes you should drain the bowl or run stabilizer in the gas at the end of the season. (Run Ethanol FREE gas with older outboardS!!!!!)
Third,
Water drains out of the system the moment you shut off the outboard, it's pumped up from the water pump in the lower unit to the powerhead.

I've never needed a hand impact to take out the drain plugs on mercurys or johnsons.

I've serviced: Mercs 2.5-25hp, OMC 6-30hps, all 1995 or older. These engines are some of the easiest well built machines I've probably worked on. Rarely to do you find such easy tear down for servicing. The lower units comes off with 4 bolts and a shifter clip.

 

[Pro-pulsion]

Do you find the impact driver mostly necessary on motors run in the salt? I've owned/maintained a couple dozen 100% freshwater outboards in my days and never had an issue removing the two screws you mention using a plain old screwdriver.

Yep, freshwater only and we still needed the impact driver. Not on all of them mind you, but every now and again it was a needed tool for that job.

 

[tnman]

Thanks to everyone who commented to my question. Once again you guys have come though. I am going to follow your advice and hope to have her back on the water soon. Pro-pulsion, I did remove both plugs with a regular screw driver. Two more questions. Can water actually mix with oil? My simple brain says that if there is water if would have some level of seperation after setting all winter. Where is the best place to purhase the oil and pump kit and drain plug O rings?

 

[Pro-pulsion]

I'm not sure about where to buy the parts in your area, I would just opt for any local Evinrude dealer. Even though Merc and BRP teamed up to buy out OMC, I do believe the motors are still in production.

Water most certainly can mix with oil and will stay suspended in it. Only in ethanol free fuel will water stay separated and roll around in the fuel tank. Ethanol blended fuel on the other hand such as most 87 & 89 octane rated fuels...and even some 91's, will mix with water as the ethanol absorbs it. Eventually though you will build up a layer of useless fuel in the bottom of the tank called phase separated fuel. It has mostly water in it, virtually no octane and will continue degrading new fuel octane until it gets siphoned out. But the gear lube will hang onto water and just stay milky looking.

 

[tnman]

I only use ethanol free fuel.

 

[WAB]

Get the pump at some auto parts places, or Amazon. eeds to have special threaded plastic fitting to screw to motor foot. Pump oil into bottom plug till it comes out the top one. Tons of youtube vids for you. Get a bottle of cheap oil and one full synth. Pump in the cheap oil first to flush out the old oil. Start pumping new oil once it looks clean coming out.
I use mobil1 full syth gear oil in my 1989 Johnson 40hp and change it 2x per season.