300/440/550 js440 just clicks but wont turn over I can turn over by hand! wut out startr, relay??

things always has turned over since I have had it I was switching out battery yesterday and might have grounded something out, I know the battery is good I think I just fried the starter our a selanoid our something I can turn the motor over by hand but when I try to start it just makes a click noise for one second and then nothing!no humming no nothing just click nothing... need to get fixed ahhhhhh
its a js440 also
 
sounds like it could be the starter motor, the click sounds like solenoid moving the starter gear onto the flywheel... but it could also be something wrong with the wiring going to the motor as well. Just to eliminate the battery pull the plugs and try to start it.

idk if this works on PWC's but a trick that sometimes works on older cars is to hit the motor with a hammer (yes I'm serious). Sometimes the armature of the motor can get stuck and the hammer can help spin the motor a bit...

side note, hopefully you cant turn to motor over by hand with the plugs in... if so, time to check yo compression!
 
If you are getting a loud click from the E-box, then your starter solenoid should be good. However, you should be able to get it to click every time you touch the start button. If you can't, then you may need to open up the Ebox to get to the solenoid. The solenoid sends power to the starter. Often, a faulty power connection or ground can cause this same symptom/issue. I had this happen to me this year and YES hitting the starter with a hammer and/or block of wood may unstick it. It worked on mine, however, it later froze up again. I pulled the starter and took it apart. Everything was rusty in there. I cleaned up the contacts and sprayed it down with WD40.
Works like a charm now. BTW, I have a 1987 and the starter is original OEM.
Let me know where you are at and I may be able to help.
 
Location
CT
I had this same problem. There are 2 connections on the outside of the E-Box. One wire goes to the battery, the other wire goes to the starter. You can pull back the rubber boots that are on these connections. Then take a screwdriver or something similar and touch both connnections at the same time. This will bypass the solenoid. If the starter engages you have a bad solenoid. If you don't hear anything from the starter it means you likely have something wrong with the starter.

If your solenoid is bad you might be able to take it apart and clean it. You'll need to open the ebox, unscrew the 2 bolts holding the solenoid cover on the solenoid and unsolder the solenoid cover. Be very careful you don't pull on the cap before unsoldering the wires or you'll damage the electromagnet and have to buy a new solenoid. Once you have access to the inside of the solenoid you can clean the contacts.
 
And it clicks every single time like a good click not weak its got some punch just wont spin starter its a 1978 im guessing its. Starter I will try all these troubleshoots thanks so much im gonna be a jetski genius after all things I have had to do haha
 
Location
CT
The starter is located against the side of the engin under the exhaust. If you are standing on the ski it would be on the left side. I had a good strong click too, there was just too much corrosion in the ebox and solenoid.
 
87turboii
you should be able to see the starter under the exhaust mani as you are looking down into the engine compartment (look between Ebox and exhaust mani with flash light). Use a hammer, or whatever, and tap on the starter as you are pushing the start button. If the starter contacts are bad or the bendix is stuck, you may be able to get the starter to spin. This has worked for me and saved my day at the lake on more than one occasion. If you get it to spin, then you know the problem is isolated to the starter.
When I have had problems with a solenoid sticking, I didn't get the click sound at all. Usually, the loud clicking sound is the solenoid activating. My guess is that your problem is a faulty wire/connection or a starter that is all rusted up.
 
did you slide back the rubber boots on the ebox and then use a screw driver to arc the two? this will bypass solenoid and send power direct to the starter.

This might sound obvious, but did you confirm the battery is good? I have seen good batteries go bad for no reason.
 
yah i took apart e box apart arkd the two hit the start and nothin haha, selnoid is good so i banged starter and nothing I took it off and wired it directly to battery and nothing so I slammed it on ground and thren after that it worked for ten seconds and then nothing so I yah its the starter, is this the starter I want?? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Kawa...877414QQptZMotorsQ5fATVQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories I do not see the third bracket to screw starter down to motor.. ps..... I tried getting into this starter to fix it and the screws will not budge so Im just gonna put in new! there was a date carved into the starter 4-24-84 haha thats older than I am
 
The starter in your link will work. The after market starters do not have the extra mounting bracket for the small bolts that mount to the case. I have not personally used one of these Chinese starters, however, I've heard some negative reports. Do a search on this site.
If you use an impact driver (http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-reversible-impact-driver-set-93481.html), you can get those phillips head screws out.
image_2697.jpg

I just did it about a month ago. I put the starter in the vise and hammered away. Even after the screws started to turn, they were still a pain to get out. I just kept tapping away and eventually they came out. I cleaned the brushes with sand paper and then cleaned out all the crap inside with contact cleaner. Lubed it all up with WD40 and it works awesome now. Rebuild kits are available also and they come with new brushes and other components.
 
Location
CT
Fleabags, that's a great resource. I didn't think of using those.
How do I get the snap ring off that holds the collar and pinion gear on the shaft?
 
no need. Once you remove the two phillips head screws which go all the way down to the front plate, the whole back of the starter slides out and you can access from there. I suppose if you needed to replace the bendix you may have to do that, I never had to.
 
Location
CT
Someone gave me a starter off a 1989 Yamaha WR500. It is the same as the JS550 starter but has an 11 tooth gear. I was able to swap the gears.
In case any needs to do this in the future (maybe even myself and I forgot) just use a socket that fits over the shaft and hammer the collar back. Then use a few screw drivers and needle nose pliers to bend the snap ring off the shaft. The bendix comes right off after that.
 
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