- Location
- Odenton, Maryland
Yeah i would think the one with the bigger motor would be the one I would want to go with. I didnt know if there was something about having a newer ski or not. Thanks for the help.
300/440/550 JS550sx Beginner Ski for big guy???
- Thread starter mgh488
- Start date
Droste14
Be About It!
- Location
- Wichita, KS
Dont be to proud to stay on your knees for a while when you first start. I tell all my friends that and they try to just go and stand up and they get frustrated when they cant stay on it. Gotta learn to crawl before you can walk, then run!
suva
57
- Location
- Just south of the Citadel, Idaho
Whichever one is in the best condition, the 650s are a bit easier to learn on though.
Droste14
Be About It!
- Location
- Wichita, KS
My first one was a 650. Really stable compared to my 90 SJ
- Location
- Northern CA
The 650sx is a larger (heavier) more stable ski with more HP than a 550. IMHO a much better choice for a first timer (especially for a bigger person) and something that you won't necessarily out grow, even though the new stuff is better. I had mine out last weekend and had a great time on it.
Now the problem is finding the right ski in good mechanical condition. If taken care of the 650sx is a very low maintenance ski. If you were a friend I would tell you to keep looking until you found the right 650sx.
Most will probably have some upgrades. For the 650sx, a ride plate, intake grate, bars and finger throttle are a must. If it's a 1987 or 1988, it has a 28mm carb which isn't the best. In 1989 they went to a 38mm carb which was better. In 1991 (maybe 1990?) they went with a rear exhaust which quiets them down a lot. That is probably my only complaint I have with my 650, is the noise from the front exhaust.
Good luck and let us know what you do and how it works out for you.
Now the problem is finding the right ski in good mechanical condition. If taken care of the 650sx is a very low maintenance ski. If you were a friend I would tell you to keep looking until you found the right 650sx.
Most will probably have some upgrades. For the 650sx, a ride plate, intake grate, bars and finger throttle are a must. If it's a 1987 or 1988, it has a 28mm carb which isn't the best. In 1989 they went to a 38mm carb which was better. In 1991 (maybe 1990?) they went with a rear exhaust which quiets them down a lot. That is probably my only complaint I have with my 650, is the noise from the front exhaust.
Good luck and let us know what you do and how it works out for you.
- Location
- Odenton, Maryland
Picked up the '88 650sx last week. Took it out all saturday. Got up fine on it. Takes some time getting used to it. It porpoises once I get to planing speed. I got manuevering down and everything is working out fine. Just got to start logging some hours on it. It ran fine engine wise. Makes an awful metal on metal noise around the pump when hooked up to the hose though, in the water the noise is barly noticeable if not at all. Grips were melting so I picked up some ODI's and put them on. While re-adjusting the throttle clamp for the grips, I went to retighten the clamp and the top half of the clamp started to crack and split. Item 1 to fix. There is a small crack on the front next to the gas tank lid. Doesnt look to bad. Normal wear and tear on paint and graphics so I'd like to re-do them in the off season, any suggestions on that process? Also, the guy I bought it from showed me how I have to squirt some 50:1 in the spark arrestor on first start. If the engine gets cold when floating next to the boat while anchored, I have to prime it again to kick it over. Does anyone else have to do this?
- Location
- Northern CA
An awful metal to metal sound might mean you have a pump housing bearing going out or a nicked impeller. Mine has a light noise when out of the water and running. Since its new to you and your just getting started, you might just want to keep an eye on it, instead of throwing money at it right away, unless you really mean awful, then try to fix it now before it strands you out on the water.
I recommend 40:1 unless you are running some fancy synthetic oil. They make a primer kit for about $20 so you don't need to hassle with priming it through the air cleaner. Sometimes if mine has been sitting for a bunch of hours I'll need to prime it again, but usually not.
Do you know what if any work has been done to it? Aftermarket parts?
PM me if you would like, I'll try to help if I can.
I recommend 40:1 unless you are running some fancy synthetic oil. They make a primer kit for about $20 so you don't need to hassle with priming it through the air cleaner. Sometimes if mine has been sitting for a bunch of hours I'll need to prime it again, but usually not.
Do you know what if any work has been done to it? Aftermarket parts?
PM me if you would like, I'll try to help if I can.
- Location
- Ocala, FL
My 550 is a pain to start even if i stop for mere minutes after riding for hours. My fx1 on the other hand can sit all winter and start nearly instantly. Blowsion sells a nice primer as smd said and its definitely a helpful thing to have on any ski. Pretty simple install too. Id recommend the plunger type. I had mine installed for a year before it broke when i was flipping my ski over on my trailer and it got wedged and snapped off. Aside from that (which was 100% my fault, apparently a small rod can't hold an entire hull) it was in perfect condition still after a year. Here is a link if you care to take a look, I'm not sure which carb the 650s have though.
http://www.blowsion.com/search.aspx?searchterms=primer
And you mentioned needing to prime it after it has been anchored. Are you leaving it in the water for long periods of time? If so, your probably going to want to find a new method of storage, such as on a dock or stand.
lastly, welcome to the worlds most addictive hobby.
http://www.blowsion.com/search.aspx?searchterms=primer
And you mentioned needing to prime it after it has been anchored. Are you leaving it in the water for long periods of time? If so, your probably going to want to find a new method of storage, such as on a dock or stand.
lastly, welcome to the worlds most addictive hobby.
- Location
- Northern CA
The 650sx will porpoise with the stock ride plate and is worse with a heavy rider. Riding position helps, you need to be up front in the tray as much as possible, but the best solution is to get an extended ride plate (used). If it has the stock bars, you will never be able to get forward enough in the tray. You can try the 2 stainless steel washer trick between the ride plate and hull on each of the rear ride plate bolts, but I'm not optimistic that will help, but easy enough to try. That is suppose to help push the nose down, which helps eliminate the porpoising.
Not knowing anything about the ski, I would recommend that you torque the head to 18 ft/lbs and put some fresh plugs in it. I like the NGK BPR7ES. The "P" stands for projected tip and I think the skis are a bit more snappy with them. It's a good idea to try and tighten all of the bolts and screws in the engine compartment. If it's running and idling good that is all I would do to the motor for now. If you plan on keeping it a compression check will give you a rough idea of the condition of the engine, but mostly will let you know if something is about to go wrong.
Not knowing anything about the ski, I would recommend that you torque the head to 18 ft/lbs and put some fresh plugs in it. I like the NGK BPR7ES. The "P" stands for projected tip and I think the skis are a bit more snappy with them. It's a good idea to try and tighten all of the bolts and screws in the engine compartment. If it's running and idling good that is all I would do to the motor for now. If you plan on keeping it a compression check will give you a rough idea of the condition of the engine, but mostly will let you know if something is about to go wrong.