SX/SXi/SXi Pro Just Picked Up My First SXI!

Skirunner24

Skirunner24

Location
WI
Ordered a new factory throttle bracket, lord mount, and head/mani gasket yesterday. Just waiting on the pump to get here and I should be set to reinstall everything. I think I'm going to remove the timing advance. I'd like to pick up a high comp head at some point anyway. Sooo...if anyone has one lying around at a decent price let me know!
 
Skirunner24

Skirunner24

Location
WI
Had some time today so I pulled the impeller. The 10/18 looks to be in decent shape. Does anyone know the application for this impeller? Low/high end thrust? Also replaced the ghetto pvc piped elbow where the waterbox was supposed to be with a FP waterbox. Whats the deal with the plunger in my hand? Like I said, not familiar with this engine yet. I can't wait to clean this engine and bay out, but that will have to wait until fall!



At what clearance is it time to replace the wear ring within the pump? I think this one looks ok? I'd like to know for future reference.IMAG0202.jpg

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sxipro02

sxipro02

Location
Arnold MO.
That thing in your hand is a lower engine purge. If you fill the engine with water you pull up on that while cranking it over to let the water out. They sell a block off plate for like 10 bucks on eBay so you can get rid of it. They are a common spot for leaks that can cause lean issues and engine failure.
 
Skirunner24

Skirunner24

Location
WI
Alright...this just keeps getting more fun. Went to mount some of the pump components to get an idea of what I still needed today. Turns out I need a lot. I'm missing most of the hardware (bolts) for mounting the ride plate and intake. Why this dude didn't just screw the bolts back where they came from I'll never understand. Anyway, found two bolts snapped off in the pump housing- no big deal though because I have another pump I'm using. However, I'm not exactly sure which bolts to use on the intake and ride plate. I'm assuming they're the round top hex bolts? Also discovered that one of the ride plate nuts seems to be stripped to some degree. I managed to turn a screw up into it most of the way (probably rethreading it in the process). My question is, if I need to replace that nut, can it be done when I returf the ski? Is that ride plate nut easy to get out and replace?

Also...as you can see from the picture below, the pump cone I had on the old pump does not fit the new pump. I can get it down just past the O ring. Then it bottoms metal to metal. Was there a discrepancy in sizing between years or something? The new pump looks identical to the old one and has all the same markings. Is there a different cone that I'll need to buy?





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sxipro02

sxipro02

Location
Arnold MO.
The problem with the pump cone is that your bearing isn't fully seated into the housing. I had the same issue when I replaced my bearings. I just put a 2x4 on top of the cone and drove it in with a hammer. No biggie.

As far as bolts for the intake grate and ride plate they are the same bolts, I would just run up to your local hardware store and get some stainless ones. They are 5mm Allen head stock. I can post the thread pitch and length later when I get home.
I would try and tap the threads on the nuts before I replaced them. If you do need to replace them it would be perfect timing to do it before returning. A lot of the tray and foam will have to come out.
 
Skirunner24

Skirunner24

Location
WI
Thanks Sxipro, I appreciate all the feed back. Good to know I can get some answers here. I'll grab a thread kit and some allen bolts on my next hardware store run.

While I've got the pump apart, is it worth it to grab an a/m pump cone? Do they really make that much of a difference or is it just a waste of money unless you get a pump stuffer?
 
sxipro02

sxipro02

Location
Arnold MO.
I noticed a little gain in low end with a stubby cone. On a stock or close to stock motor they do pretty good. I've only ridden mine once with the stuffer so I can't really comment on that. I have a Blowsion cone if you want it. Biggest thing to look at in the pump is impeller condition and straightness and of corse pitch. Should be close to a 9/17.
 
Skirunner24

Skirunner24

Location
WI
Little update. I've been crazy busy lately so I haven't had time to do much. Finally got the lord mount, bracket, and mani gasket in from FP. All I can say is that I should have went into pipe manufacturing. The price they get for that hardware! Crazy!! I was also examining the carbs and discovered what looks to be like some type of sealer squirted into the one of the low speed screws. Wonderful. My guess is the spring was lost somehow and the dude figured he'd just seat the screw back in with a little sealer. Soooo I've got a feeling I'm going to be having lots of fun once I try to dial the carbs in. Speaking of that, I hate tuning carbs. Terrible at it. I've already got the mikuni manual and have taken a look at group K's write up. Any other tutorials I should read up on before I get at it?
 
Skirunner24

Skirunner24

Location
WI
I've been pretty busy over the last couple weeks, but I finally got back to working on the ski. I picked up all the necessary hardware I needed tonight and was set to get her back together. However, after taking the stator cover off, I was pretty surprised at how much rust and corrosion was going on inside there. I had only opened it up to remove the timing advance plate. How normal/unusual is this? Is the stator toast? Can I clean it up somehow? I got frustrated and ripped the motor out to get a better look. It doesn't look like there was any water in there real recently, and the dude had enough RTV sealer on there to withstand a tsunami. At a loss as to what to do with it at the moment...any advice would be helpful!

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P

PLD

Well I would get that flywheel off and clean that sucker up maybe even send it off to #zero to get lightened. I do not see any advance plate on the stator cover, but I'd be glad you pulled and checked for it now. I hate making assumptions but I will bet your bendix is not in the best operational condition.

I've seen worse stators that still work, try cleaning it the best you can and just check the continuity in between the wires if they're good you should be fine. But be sure to wiggle the wires as you test them to make sure there isnt any subtle breaks that will cause issues for you later.

Also a little tip, you shouldn't necessarily need a special flywheel puller to get that flywheel off. I use a good adjustable wrench and a bolt I picked up at a local surplus store + a little heat and they usually pop-off.
 
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Skirunner24

Skirunner24

Location
WI
PLD - I had already removed the advancing plate before I took the pictures. I'll see about pulling the flywheel off. Any idea about how much it would cost to get it lightened? Is it really worth it?
 
sxipro02

sxipro02

Location
Arnold MO.
I think Zero charges around 75 to lighten them, i havent rode a ski with a lightened flywheel but I did notice a big improvement when installing my jetinectics aluminum one.
X2 on using a generic bolt to pull the flywheel, I used a steering wheel bolt off a VW, Im a VW tech and had a bunch laying around.
 
Skirunner24

Skirunner24

Location
WI
New problem (you were right sxipro)... I got around to dealing with the pump tonight. Tried driving the pump cone into the housing and still could not get it to seat. Finally realized that the bearing in the new housing sits about 5mm closer to the surface flange than the bearing in the old housing does. I continued hammering away at the cone, but could not get the bearing to seat any further. It feels bottomed out. Ideas? Could it be a wrong sized bearing? (too wide?) I have a feeling I'll need to actually pull the bearing to find out whats going on in there. How is this done? Remove the impeller, and then what? Pull the shaft out and knock the bearing out? Never had to replace a pump bearing so I could use some guidance...
 
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