kart tanks

[Waternut]

I've heard of a lot of people using kart tanks. Where is the best place to get one and what will I need to do to make it work? Are the fitting and all included with the tanks?

I'm about to pull that mother F---- gas tank for the last time!! :rocketwhore: I'd rather fill up halfway through the ride as opposed to pulling that thing 2-3 times a season.

 

[steve-uk]

i got mine from air time products (works out lowest cost out there - even with shipping from uk), it comes with all the fittings you need, fitting it iused the specific centre mount battery tray, reused stock straps... not 100% sure, but think you can still do that leaving the battery in stock position

 

[MADMAT]

If pulling it the concern (same with me) then just do a internal fuel fill mod on your existing tank. It works great if done right and I can pull a filled to the rim tank out of my ski in 10 seconds.

 

[MADMAT]

Oh it looks like you already did in your pic. Whats the prop then?

 

[SharkB8]

I put a 9 liter Comet tank in. I just tied by OEM tank straps in a couple knots. I also had to zip-tie the straps together at the top to keep them from slipping off the top of the tank. That kept it secure.

I ended up putting my OEM tank back in after a couple rides and switch to an internal fill configuration for the reason you mentioned (PITA to remove). When racing around the buoys with friends at the local lake its nice to have the extra weight of a full-to-the-brim fuel tank.

The Comet tank sure was nice to work around though!!

 

[Waternut]

Oh it looks like you already did in your pic. Whats the prop then?

The problem is, I have to take the battery and battery box out, then I have to spray soapy water on everything because the tank physically doesn't fit between the hull and the b pipe chamber. The rubber exhaust hose is a huge PITA as well because it gets in the way. So after flexing the hull, twisting the tank in the perfect orientation, and manipulating the rubber hose in just the right way, I can get the tank out but typically it's a 30 minutes process to just remove it and another 30 minutes to put it back in.

Depending on how much patience I have at the time, I've even tried kicking the crap out of the tank to get it in place in the hull and even that usually doesn't work.

 

[Matt_E]

Huh. I can pull a stock tank out in less than five minutes, without pulling the battery box or any of that stuff.

 

[Waternut]

Man what stock tanks are you guys using? Or maybe what kind of stock tank do I have? My tank gets melted by the b pipe chamber on one side and chaffed on the other side by the hull. Is there more room in a RN maybe?

Seriously, right now my battery box is missing about 1/4" on the tank side because the battery has enough room but the battery box doesn't fit.

 

[GIL]

Man what stock tanks are you guys using? Or maybe what kind of stock tank do I have? My tank gets melted by the b pipe chamber on one side and chaffed on the other side by the hull. Is there more room in a RN maybe?

Seriously, right now my battery box is missing about 1/4" on the tank side because the battery has enough room but the battery box doesn't fit.

Now that I have seen your set up-it's alot like mine---with that said---

Glass cleaner is your friend!!!

Remove the battery
lots of glass cleaner on the ex hose and tank
lots of glass cleaner on chamber and tank
tilt tank straight back w/gas cap off and pull it out at a 45* angle

note-the tank is tilted back towards the timing cover

I have quick dis-connects on my fuel lines and wing nuts on my batt terminals-I litteraly pull my tank in 1 minute and re-install in 2 minutes.
It takes alot more glass cleaner going in than out. I do not remove my battery tray going in or out.

Hope this helps.
Gil

Did I mention lots of glass cleaner? lol

 

[Waternut]

Well I'll give that a shot tomorrow morning and what happens. I'm crossing my fingers for an easy method.

 

[GIL]

Well I'll give that a shot tomorrow morning and what happens. I'm crossing my fingers for an easy method.

Just remember u can't compress the chamber or the tank-the ex hose is where your room comes from.

 

[Matt_E]

Yup. Put some windex/spit/premix/blood on the exhaust hose, squeeze that thing a little, and the tank comes out.

 

[special fx]

Waternut........is it just me or does your motor look crooked as hell in the hull???

 

[SUPERTUNE]

Man what stock tanks are you guys using? Or maybe what kind of stock tank do I have? My tank gets melted by the b pipe chamber on one side and chaffed on the other side by the hull. Is there more room in a RN maybe?

Seriously, right now my battery box is missing about 1/4" on the tank side because the battery has enough room but the battery box doesn't fit.

Are you racing this ski or freestyle/freeriding?
You should not be burning the tank with a 'B' pipe, if you are I think that your too lean with the water settings.
Yes, the RN ski have about a 1/4 more clearance for getting the tank in and out, just enough to make it much easier.

 

[steve-uk]

Waternut........is it just me or does your motor look crooked as hell in the hull???

i noticed that too.. prob just an optical illusion but the tank looks like it goes one way and the fly wheel cover the opossite direction

 

[skinnyman]

I got a new Oem tank this year
My old tank was expanded by 1/2 in or so I never thought about the old tank expanding
The new tank gave me all kinds of room

 

[Waternut]

You guys are my heroes. I was always trying to twist that freaking tank because I didn't think it would get past the exhaust tube any other way. It takes some muscle but it does just slide in and out without removing the battery tray.

I eye balled the engine and it doesn't point perfectly forward. However, the midshaft coupler does appear to point forward and it was lined up nicely with the engine coupler. It isn't centered perfectly on the engine mounts though...:dunno: Is that really a big deal?

 

[WFO Speedracer]

You guys are my heroes. I was always trying to twist that freaking tank because I didn't think it would get past the exhaust tube any other way. It takes some muscle but it does just slide in and out without removing the battery tray.

I eye balled the engine and it doesn't point perfectly forward. However, the midshaft coupler does appear to point forward and it was lined up nicely with the engine coupler. It isn't centered perfectly on the engine mounts though...:dunno: Is that really a big deal?

Shimming is not just for the engine the midshaft and pump may have to be shimmed as well.

Ummmmmmmm aren't you the one that says that your bolts are constantly backing out and breaking off,yeah I would say alignment is kind of a big deal :stooges: :smashfreakB:

 

[Waternut]

Ummmmmmmm aren't you the one that says that your bolts are constantly backing out and breaking off,yeah I would say alignment is kind of a big deal :stooges: :smashfreakB:

Yes I am that person but in all honesty, I took better care to ensure everything was lined up properly this time. Just never thought that the engine could be out of line when everything else was. I guess when I put the rubber coupler damper in place, I didn't put everything back in perfectly. One more thing to deal with....*sigh*

 

[WFO Speedracer]

Make sure that when you are checking the coupler alignment that you are doing so without the rubber coupler in place,if it is in place it may appear to be lined up but it won't actually be lined up.