Surfriding Killing the salt
- Thread starter SJ 701X
- Start date
Vumad
Super Hero, with a cape!
- Location
- St. Pete, FL
The salt crystals don't clog anything. But I have some pitting on my exhaust ports that would disagree with you on the flushing.
Corrosion is the result of oxidation. Oxidation is the slow degradation of a material due to the loss of electrons through reaction with oxygen. Water not only contains oxygen, but it acts as a delivery method to more efficiently oxidize materials. Anything exposed to water will oxidize quicker than those items kept dry.
Corrosion accelerates dramatically when exposed to electricity. Everyone has seen corrosion on the battery terminals of their car and know that electricity = corrosion. Salt is an electrolyte. It has an electrical charge. It's powerful enough to make our muscle contract, including keeping our heart beating. Salt build up on material in itself is not bad, but the electrical charge of the salt accelerates the oxidation and break down of the materials which is most certainly bad.
Salt = electricity = corrosion.
Soap washes away the salt which prevents the accelerated corrosion. However, even after washing with soap, you should still coat with something like spray silicone. It adds a protective layer that blocks out oxygen and greatly prevents corrosion.
This is a very irrelevant debate.
If given the choice between
1) Fresh water boat
2) salt water boat flushed and coated
3) salt water boat never maintained
all other variables maintained the same, everyone here would make their choice in that order, including those who feel that flushing is not necessary.
Flushed and coated boats have less corrosion, less maintenance, higher resale values and so forth, and no here can provide any real evidence to the contrary.
We all want fresh water or flushed boats for a reason.
Weather or not we should flush isn't the question. It's what gives method gives the best value (price/performance ratio).
I currently flush with the hose, rinse the engine compartment and coat the exposed metals. I am willing to consider flushing with a product, but not at $100/ga. I'm also open to coating with better fluids than WD40. I really like spray silicone, and would like to find it by the gallon.
Idok
F1pro
- Location
- Nations oldest muthaF+++kin city
jesus
- Location
- philly
I just squirt about an ounce of the dawn in the hose fitting on the flush kit, then screw the hose on, start the engine, and turn the water on and run the engine until only clear water is coming out the pump and pissers. Some kinds of soap are corrosive, but I don't think dawn is, thats why people choose that brand for this purpose. It will take the wax off, but so does the saltwater after a few rides.
- Location
- the jetski grave yard
oxidation is the death of everything including us. we have to breath air but it kills us at the same time. food / vitamins with anti-oxidants reduce oxidation in the body. the zinc node between the cylinders is for electrolysis. electricity causes erosion of the metal exposed to salt water. electrolysis attacks the zinc as opposed to the motor. i dont think soap does anything but dilute/wash away salt.i dont think it an anti-salt. soap is probably better than nothing, but i dont think it does what salt killer does. salt killer costs alot
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HollaHolla
FB Name: Jack Hoff
- Location
- Southern Maryland
HollaHolla
FB Name: Jack Hoff
- Location
- Southern Maryland
What exact Dupont silicone spray do you use?
HollaHolla
FB Name: Jack Hoff
- Location
- Southern Maryland
Could you please list the steps in which you flush and spray your ski down. I'll take a crack at it.
1. Fresh Water Flush - 1 oz of down optional
2. Fresh Water spray Engine?
2. Salt-Away Spray entire engine (Any wiping with a rag? Everything in the engine bay? Any other hull components?)
3. CorrosionX Trigger Spray. (Entire Engine?)
4. Let Engine Bay dry and keep hood cracked or off for storage
HollaHolla
FB Name: Jack Hoff
- Location
- Southern Maryland
And you just spray this on anything and everything in the engine compartment? Do you use a rag to wipe anything down specifically. Lastly, do you spray it on any of the handle pole or steering/handlebars?
- Location
- Brigantine, NJ
I spray it on all engine parts, pump, steering components, and all wires and hoses.
This is an old thread and you probably aren't following it anymore, but it is a case of quality versus quantity. A tall can of corrosion X costs about $20. and lasts me a long, long time (corrosion X hd even better) It does not wash off as easily as many other products. It has high diaelectric qualities which makes it great for electrical connections and battery terminals. Dont use on spark plugs, makes boots too slippery and not needed with msd boots anyway.). It is a great penetrant so it also gets inside cracks and connections to displace moisture and help to prevent corrosion.
Nothing we do, from flushing to spraying anti corrosion products, will stop corrosion problems completely, but taking some steps will certainly make things last longer and help prevent problems. Arguing over which method and what product is used seems silly, make some effort and use something that works for you.
HollaHolla
FB Name: Jack Hoff
- Location
- Southern Maryland
Do you use the CorrosionX aerosol or trigger spray can to spray all over everything....? small question but I'm trying to get my final method down to keep and stay with. Thank you for your time JetManiac.
I just got a 2014 stock superjet so if you see any used goodies let me know. Busted the budget on getting a newer ski so I'm in the market for anything and everything regarding good used parts....
Aerosol