Learning Alignment from FB

Jr.

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Does the motor want to twist on the motor mounts? Am I better to align the mid shaft dead center or up and to the right?


The motor is suspended so to speak on rubber mounts. With the pump being mounted ridged. Does it move with motor torque and change alignment?? You might say that. Alignment 101 will tell you to align the drive side coupling in the normally run position. So say we are doing alignment on a fixed thermally hot pump. The motor is ridgid mounted. The size of the pump rotating assmbly needs to be calculated for thermal rise. The motor then needs to me aligned to compensate that rise. So when it is running in normal condition, its perfectly aligned to the spec which normally is +/- .0005 parallel & Axial alignment.
Below is a photo of the Yamaha service manual on motor alignment spec. I would say that is pretty vauge to say the least! DAG, If you want the long answer to your question? Your probably need to wait until my book “water scooty fixing for dummies” comes out! Lol Seriously, your way of thinking has merit. But its not for every application. Most alignment is just straight line.
C3E60841-6545-4BD2-AFF6-D760D0684305.jpeg
 

DAG

Yes, my balls tickled from that landing
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Charlotte, NC
Thanks for proving my point. It's not that complicated. 100% agree lol.

Rewind last week (someone go find the link) some dude on Facebook post a video using a CF alligment tool and it's dead nuts centered but once he rotates the shaft it's off (maybe ten to twenty thou) it enters into the hole with mild force but doesn't slip in like a 16yr old on prome night. I state the drive line moves more than than in a dynamic state, as does the hull flex more than that alligment was off. All though likely the shaft itself had run out issues it was only a 701 setup. Everyone was like rip the pump out and buy a new shaft. You got to be fcking kidding me, it's a 701. It might matter on a 1200Ninja but now the poor guy probably went out and spent a few hundred to make something that was allready in spec even better. Nothing wrong with that but c'mon.

Then this thread surfaces mocking the "bad" Facebook advice. It's not until you over complicate things until you realize it doesn't matter.

What's bad advice? I guess it depends on ones wallet
 

Jr.

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Thanks for proving my point. It's not that complicated. 100% agree lol.

Rewind last week (someone go find the link) some dude on Facebook post a video using a CF alligment tool and it's dead nuts centered but once he rotates the shaft it's off (maybe ten to twenty thou) it enters into the hole with mild force but doesn't slip in like a 16yr old on prome night. I state the drive line moves more than than in a dynamic state, as does the hull flex more than that alligment was off. All though likely the shaft itself had run out issues it was only a 701 setup. Everyone was like rip the pump out and buy a new shaft. You got to be fcking kidding me, it's a 701. It might matter on a 1200Ninja but now the poor guy probably went out and spent a few hundred to make something that was allready in spec even better. Nothing wrong with that but c'mon.

Then this thread surfaces mocking the "bad" Facebook advice. It's not until you over complicate things until you realize it doesn't matter.

What's bad advice? I guess it depends on ones wallet


I saw that thread, i agree its was the right thing to change it! Do you own that CF tool? I dont!
Its a tool for people that dont know correct alignment! I use V blocks and dial indicators on every shaft Before assmbly! What a total waste of time to go thru full assmbly and stick it in a hull to find out your screwed!
The problem is what is acceptable / good enough vs correct?? I prefer to do it correct, espically if a client is paying for it! Pleant of crap shops doing crap work! Sorry, not playing that game. Im actually surprised in your profession your stating something like that is acceptable?
 

E350

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Ok who is setting up a go fund me account? How much do I need to contribute to learn how to use dial indicators on fiberglass hulls and aluminum cases to align the various shafts? Will they just be emailed to those who pay or will they be stickered in a sort of technical library here?

Oh yeah. I have that Yamaha Super Jet Service Manual too. Vague to me for sure. I don't even know how you can get a visual on the straight edge when the engine is in the hull, much less measure the "a" gap. If some one knows how to do this, please explain.

Bottom line: There is knowledge about standup jet skis which is disappearing daily. The skis last 25 years or more and are being resurrected by people like me who are clueless and have to reinvent the wheel and re-ask stupid questions daily. While those with the accumulated knowledge to really build them right are leaving the sport or are leaving the planet daily.


For example, SuperTune was "Last seen Nov 13, 2012" To me his posts are golden, but learning from a post here and there is like looking at a pages 25, 71, 201 in a book of his mind which is 20,000 pages long. I would love it if we could encourage him and Jr. and other greats in the 2-cycle part of our sport to put their Biblical knowledge on paper here.
 
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Jr.

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Thanks for proving my point. It's not that complicated. 100% agree lol.

Rewind last week (someone go find the link) some dude on Facebook post a video using a CF alligment tool and it's dead nuts centered but once he rotates the shaft it's off (maybe ten to twenty thou) it enters into the hole with mild force but doesn't slip in like a 16yr old on prome night. I state the drive line moves more than than in a dynamic state, as does the hull flex more than that alligment was off. All though likely the shaft itself had run out issues it was only a 701 setup. Everyone was like rip the pump out and buy a new shaft. You got to be fcking kidding me, it's a 701. It might matter on a 1200Ninja but now the poor guy probably went out and spent a few hundred to make something that was allready in spec even better. Nothing wrong with that but c'mon.

Then this thread surfaces mocking the "bad" Facebook advice. It's not until you over complicate things until you realize it doesn't matter.

What's bad advice? I guess it depends on ones wallet


Oh, and BTW, its not difficult to straighten shafts that are reasonably out. V- block, indicators and a press
Im sure your local friend #Sasquachcrap does it on a regular basis. Way less cost than buying a new shaft
 

Jr.

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Ok who is setting up a go fund me account? How much do I need to contribute to learn how to use dial indicators on fiberglass hulls and aluminum cases to align the various shafts? Will they just be emailed to those who pay or will they be stickered in a sort of technical library here?

Oh yeah. I have that Yamaha Super Jet Service Manual too. Vague to me for sure. I don't even know how you can get a visual on the straight edge when the engine is in the hull, much less measure the "a" gap. If some one knows how to do this, please explain.

Bottom line: There is knowledge about standup jet skis which is disappearing daily. The skis last 25 years or more and are being resurrected by people like me who are clueless and have to reinvent the wheel and re-ask stupid questions daily. While those with the accumulated knowledge to really build them right are leaving the sport or are leaving the planet daily.


For example, SuperTune was "Last seen Nov 13, 2012" To me his posts are golden, but learning from a post here and there is like looking at a pages 25, 71, 201 in a book of his mind which is 20,000 pages long. I would love it if we could encourage him and Jr. and other greats in the 2-cycle part of our sport to put their Biblical knowledge on paper here.

Chuckie (Supertune) is a great guy and good friend. Knowlagable in the design and application of our motors is an understatment. Chuck, and others have been driven away from the X as well as other great tuners due to this new generations attitude! Its hard to be willing to give away your time and talents, and be disrespected, by people with no clue! Part of my point with this thread in the first place. FB is a great place for that attitude. Its social media, who really cares? The X is more a place for true enthusiasts, with more of a passion for the knowlage that makes this sport tick! In the past couple of months, I have had more presence back here. Two reasons. First and foremost,
I still Love to Ride! Second, Performance two strokes have a very deep passion within me. I want the X to survive, and get back to what was intended in the beginning, positive contributions is the key to that!
I have been having a bit of fun with DAG on this thread. He and I are friends off the site. I definately respect him and his profession. Like many others, he is learning the ropes of the skiis, even though he has been riding a fairly long time. Im just trying to make him see, that good enough, really never is, good enough!

Ski ya, Paul
 
I saw that thread, i agree its was the right thing to change it! Do you own that CF tool? I dont!
Its a tool for people that dont know correct alignment! I use V blocks and dial indicators on every shaft Before assmbly! What a total waste of time to go thru full assmbly and stick it in a hull to find out your screwed!
The problem is what is acceptable / good enough vs correct?? I prefer to do it correct, espically if a client is paying for it! Pleant of crap shops doing crap work! Sorry, not playing that game. Im actually surprised in your profession your stating something like that is acceptable?

Just curious what kind of acceptable run-out range you would use for rating the condition of set back mag pump driveshafts? Thanks in advance. I'm just looking for some info on this as I have seen a few that were less than perfect.
 

Jr.

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Just curious what kind of acceptable run-out range you would use for rating the condition of set back mag pump driveshafts? Thanks in advance. I'm just looking for some info on this as I have seen a few that were less than perfect.

I try to hold it .005” - .010” TIR Most say .015- .020” is fine? Most setback shafts are heavier compaired to SJ thinned shafts, thus have less tendency to “whip” at speed. Reguardless, runout equals vibration, the truer the better.
Is that what your looking for?
 
I try to hold it .005” - .010” TIR Most say .015- .020” is fine? Most setback shafts are heavier compaired to SJ thinned shafts, thus have less tendency to “whip” at speed. Reguardless, runout equals vibration, the truer the better.
Is that what your looking for?
Perfect. thanks. I know the one turning the prop in my ski is not perfect and when I have time i am interested to see how far off it is. Just from my perspective it runs fairly smooth, about the same as it did when I had stock pump. probably my saving grace is the heavier construction of the set back driveshaft
 
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Screw this stuff. I did away with motors and driveshafts. I use a broom stick and some big red rubber bands. Gets more run time than that crappy total loss and race fuel.......

And dial indicators? Problems are indicated when the broom stick flies through the hood.
 
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