Lengthening hull

[yamanube]

With all these shortened hull builds over the years, I have to ask, has anybody lengthened a hull?
I've got a super short freestyle ski collecting dust in my garage and last night I got my mind right and started to work through it in my head.
Thinking of sectioning the hull around the intake tract and pump tunnel and sliding the entire assembly back 8" or so then grafting it back together.

 

[SmittySX]

The bun?

 

[yamanube]

The bun?

Yeah, I feel like it is a very unique riding hull, much different than anything else I have been on. I am curious to what it would be like if it was longer. The market to just sell it seems non existent and the lake is further than the ocean.

 

[Big Kahuna]

@McDog

Shane did this to a Titan, basically build a mold and made a full width ride plate. Kinda like the Aquabots come with.

 

[yamanube]

I did see that, I want to go further and actually move the entire pump assembly back. The distance between bulkhead and turn nozzle IMO is too short to effectively just lengthen the hull bottom. I want to move it all back.

 

[Vortex]

I would probably mold the insert then quick epoxy it in place (like a tack weld) just to hold it until a nice bead of six 10 can be applied across the Seam. Then come back and fully reinforce with epoxy soaked cloth. Just my 2ct

 

[Christian_83]

1. I talk with a guy from Finland who has a BUN/MAXX. He is 180-190cm i think. He made a longer full width rideplate. It made the ride alot better for him he said.
2. i wouldn't go further than making a new rideplate, waaayyy to much hassle.

 

[yamanube]

I have a super long rideplate, I haven't tried it yet but am sceptical. Too much hassle is relative to it either sitting in my garage and never getting ridden or selling it for next to nothing. It's just fiberglass.

 

[Christian_83]

 

[Christian_83]

Yes i agree. i would try the super long rideplate and alternatively making a longer full width rideplate. Otherwise if you literally not using it. I think i would have cut in front, and lengthen it in front of the hood.

 

[yamanube]

Yes i agree. i would try the super long rideplate and alternatively making a longer full width rideplate. Otherwise if you literally not using it. I think i would have cut in front, and lengthen it in front of the hood.

I don't think that will result in the ride I want, the hull area behind the engine assembly is SO much shorter than most any other hull which results in the rider weight being pretty far behind the center of mass or the center of the riding surface. The long plate kind of addresses this but bulkhead back to the end of the hull is something like 10" or more shorter than a superjet (just for reference) and I think having the intake tract and steering pivot that close to the center of the hull might be undesirable. I am thinking about pulling the short driveshaft out of my pump, putting a superjet length driveshaft in, then moving the entire pump assembly and intake tract back that much.
It's not like I am chopping up a big money carbon KDX, this hull has a current market value of $1700.

http://www.x-h2o.com/index.php?threads/fs-max-bun-pro-ufo-fiberglass-hull-1700.192853/

 

[Christian_83]

Yes i get that Im just thinking, all most strain and weight from jump, would be on back part of the ski. But again, just my 02 cents You could alter some of the weight forward.
My buddy @stefan also has a MAXX, i do know they are short.
Haha good one, the last one man haha. But to be fair i think its alot easier to cut something down an "close it" than adding length

 

[Big Kahuna]

There was a hull in california that was the old XFT Molds, Beleive you have to run an extra Wear Ring assembly, this would move your pump back without having to cut the hull up.

 

[yamanube]

There was a hull in california that was the old XFT Molds, Beleive you have to run an extra Wear Ring assembly, this would move your pump back without having to cut the hull up.

PJX, I considered this as well, but the rear pump mounts would be in space...and I want more than 4".

 

[TheBuzzard]

There was a hull in california that was the old XFT Molds, Beleive you have to run an extra Wear Ring assembly, this would move your pump back without having to cut the hull up.

those guys were 2 stop signs away from my house and the company is long dead and gone with a major money loss. the 2 wear ring thing doesn't work right. the intake duct has to funnel into the pump , not tunnel. the old xft hulls used a 2" thick pump shoe if desired to move the pump/motor back. there were 2 sets of holes for everything from motor mounts to reduction nozzle

 

[McDog]

This seems like waaaaay too much work and that's a lot coming from me. Your time is valuable. Sell it and get something else is my recommendation.

 

[800750]

1. Have a beer or a one hitter
2. Go in the garage, dont look at the ski
3. Grab a multi tool, go right to the ski and make a small 2 to 3 inch cut
4. You have passed the point of no return, go inside and think about what you did tommorow and start cutting. Its only fiberglass like you said

 

[Sanoman]

I'll throw my 2 cents in.Christian's friend out of all the ideas that l have read so far has the best way.Althought McDog's statement is true "way too much work". I would also question the integrity of a lengthened hull.

 

[lil_stewie7]

Super long ride plates are scary, my shin is still not healed from a stock length one. I think it's a good idea.

 

[yamanube]

1. Have a beer or a one hitter
2. Go in the garage, dont look at the ski
3. Grab a multi tool, go right to the ski and make a small 2 to 3 inch cut
4. You have passed the point of no return, go inside and think about what you did tommorow and start cutting. Its only fiberglass like you said

I'm on board with this.