Let's talk paint

Jcary85

Jcary85

Site Supporter
Vendor Account
Location
Glenmoore pa
That epifanes looks cool. Anyone used it on a hull bottom? I need to redo the bottom of my hull and am hesitant to just spray base/clear and have it scratch like crazy again. The epifanes site says its not for constant water contact....
 
T

te4250

Location
Western NY
Jcary85 said:
That epifanes looks cool. Anyone used it on a hull bottom? I need to redo the bottom of my hull and am hesitant to just spray base/clear and have it scratch like crazy again. The epifanes site says its not for constant water contact....
Click to expand...
I think that just means it doesn't specifically discourage barnacle growth like boat bottom paints for storage in water.
 
E350

E350

Site Supporter
Location
Sacramento Delta
Here is an email exchange between me and Epifanes last month:

Me: "Can I use only a part of a can at a time because I want to paint parts rather than the entire boat?"

Doug Theobalds (Epifanes NA, Inc.) <dt@epifanes.com> "Yes. Mix is 2:1 by weight. Mixing by volume works as well."

For most of us, our jet skis are mostly on the trailer or on a dock or otherwise out of the water. So, like te4250 says we can use Epifanes 2-part polyurethane below the water line.

I haven't used it yet, so I would like to see what others think. The Epifanes is specifically made so that the brush strokes flow out. But, like Quinc says, you will get better flow in cooler weather. (It can get ~100F in Chico and further down in the Sacramento Valley where I am. BUT there is a an additive to reduce the paint which is added AFTER the 2-part is mixed if I remember right. Send an email to Doug Theobalds to be sure.

Oh yeah, one more thing. I have been warned that (just like with Awlgrip) you have to use a friggin' expensive high density foam roller or the roller will deteriorate. For our small hull surfaces, weenie rollers will be fine, but they have to be high quality. Same thing with the brush. Badger hair bristles. (Preferably caught and shaved by someone else...)
 
Last edited:
Carrera911

Carrera911

Location
Cumming, Georgia
I used PPG shopline epoxy (~$55 qt) and Nason single stage urethane, also about 55 bucks. Only used about half a quart of each to do the whole ski. I sprayed it all with a 10 dollar HF gun. If I were to do it again all I would change is to upgrade to the HF 50 or 100 dollar gun for better results. Still turned out good and looks better and is tougher than rattle can ever will be. Whatever you do, don’t use paint without a catalyst. It dries harder than regular paint will ever get in just a couple days. It also won’t be melted by gas or other solvents nearly as easy. I posted all the specifics of mixing and sanding grits etc in my build last winter.

Paint has held up excellent except for just where my pvc bunks slide on it. I don’t expect any paint to hold up to that perfectly long term.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
S

Storbeck

Location
Minnesota
That's great info! Pretty much the exact sort of thing I was looking for, and that's all pretty reasonably priced stuff.

One question, did you do much sanding/body work on the epoxy primer? I was under the impression that epoxy primer is good for adhesion and sealing, but not so good for sanding and two part urethane better for sanding.

I'll search for your build thread.


Carrera911 said:
I used PPG shopline epoxy (~$55 qt) and Nason single stage urethane, also about 55 bucks. Only used about half a quart of each to do the whole ski. I sprayed it all with a 10 dollar HF gun. If I were to do it again all I would change is to upgrade to the HF 50 or 100 dollar gun for better results. Still turned out good and looks better and is tougher than rattle can ever will be. Whatever you do, don’t use paint without a catalyst. It dries harder than regular paint will ever get in just a couple days. It also won’t be melted by gas or other solvents nearly as easy. I posted all the specifics of mixing and sanding grits etc in my build last winter.

Paint has held up excellent except for just where my pvc bunks slide on it. I don’t expect any paint to hold up to that perfectly long term.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
 
Carrera911

Carrera911

Location
Cumming, Georgia
I did all my body work using cabosil thickened epoxy and glazing putty for all the little pinholes. Then I painted it.

I let the epoxy dry overnight and wet sanded it the next day then paint. All the grits are on my build thread last February. The epoxy has a topcoat window of a couple days or so before it needs to be reshot with epoxy before paint.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
S

Storbeck

Location
Minnesota
What was the reason for epoxy primer? Adhesion?

I have to look into this glazing putty.

My experience with glass work is very limited, but I had situations where I thought my body work was good, sprayed (rattle can) and then imperfections were visible, so I would fix the imperfections with more filler and sanding, but the paint was gummy to sand, so an easily sandable primer seemed like something to seek out for a more "done right" way of doing things.
 
Carrera911

Carrera911

Location
Cumming, Georgia
Storbeck said:
What was the reason for epoxy primer? Adhesion?

I have to look into this glazing putty.

My experience with glass work is very limited, but I had situations where I thought my body work was good, sprayed (rattle can) and then imperfections were visible, so I would fix the imperfections with more filler and sanding, but the paint was gummy to sand, so an easily sandable primer seemed like something to seek out for a more "done right" way of doing things.
Click to expand...

To my knowledge epoxy primer sticks and holds up the best. In my opinion it’s best to do all filler over fiberglass for the best adhesion. Wet the surface and look down it with the right light and that’ll help point out the flaws. Also just running your hand back and forth over it.

You could also use a high build primer over the epoxy which will be easily sanded and cover more flaws. I thought about going that route but it was going to be more cost, time and hassle. I just took a little more time with the bodywork to make sure I thought it would be good.

Inevitably the cabosil epoxy filler is going to have some bubbles in it. Once you sand it down all the bubbles leave the pinholes. It was impossible to fill the pinholes with epoxy. There were also a lot in the sanded down gel coat in areas. The putty I used was 3m professional with catalyst. 10 bucks or so at oreillys. There’s better stuff on the market but you have to buy a lot more than you need and it’s like 30-40+.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Wfo35

Wfo35

Location
Syracuse Ny
Has anyone painted top and bottom with epifanes with roll and tip method? I have a 2010 superjet that I would like to freshen up this winter.
 
Vumad

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Time is money. If you are going to do the labor to make any paint job look good, then the extra price of quality paints are worth the money. So appliance epoxy is fine for boats with minimal prep, minimal work after, look fine from 50 ft and are going to be touched up. If you are going to take the time to block sand, etc etc, buff after painting, etc, don't use the cheap paints.
 
Wfo35

Wfo35

Location
Syracuse Ny
My nephew does paint and glass work on powerboats, I will be able to buy quality sandpaper etc. He is going to help me prep and paint, he said to spray. Ski will be in my spare bedroom this winter so I was curious about the epifanes products using roll and tip method. I can and will spray if that will give me the most durable and clean finish. Most important is having the bottom hold up.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom