Blaster limited chamber keeps coming apart...

[Ben Holloway]

so my damn limited chamber keeps coming loose from the head pipe, I noticed that at some point in time FP changed how the limited chamber mounts, was this due to the pipe separating? I rebuilt my tank mount and it lasted a little longer but still came apart, Can I add a new style mount in conjunction with the old style or will it stress fracture the chamber?

Thanks!

 

[Screwy]

make sure the pipe is flushly seated against the head pipe in the coupler. if not when you crank down the hose clamps it could be pushing the pipe right out of the coupler. theres a grove or lip on both head pipe and chamber, thats where you want to clam down on.

 

[taylor2000]

Are you talking about that 3 inch rubber hose. I have the same problem with the 701 with factory pipe. its hard to crank down on that hose clamp cause its hard to get to. i go between the head and the exhaust pipe. It actually stayed on this time cranked down on those brackets. undecided at this time

 

[Screwy]

yes i am. those clamps are a mother to get to on the mod pipe. i dont see a problem using both mounts as long as you use lord mounts. i had to fab up mounts for my mod pipe.

 

[Ben Holloway]

yes i am. those clamps are a mother to get to on the mod pipe. i dont see a problem using both mounts as long as you use lord mounts. i had to fab up mounts for my mod pipe.

I got a new coupler on the way, I put good clamps on it and seated it the best I could. I guess I will build a second mount and see what happens, I thought I had a toasted motor mount but all is well there.

 

[Ben Holloway]

built a new mount... that should fix this damn thing I think this is something that should have been done by FP on the OG version.

 

[Screwy]

i used 1/4 inch stainless for my brackets, FP's are 1/8 inch

 

[taylor2000]

my fell out many times. i finally took everything off including the manifold just to see how it all works. I realised that part of that lip on the muffler side wont totally go into that sleeve. Its not supposed to. As a normal educated mechanic and a decent educated man you would think it would go all the way in. theres actually enough lip on it it doesnt have to. push the sleeve on the motor pipe first all the way and tighten the hose clamp. i did this with the manifold off the boat. then I slid the muffler on. held the muffler in as far as I could get it so the bracket bottoms out and tightened. so far so good. try to use a 2 foot quarter inch extension and a socket between the manifold and the head. or a 2 foot heavy size flat blade screw driver. mines held up so far.

 

[550/440]

Good stainless clamps, squeaky clean coupler and pipe on both ends helps a lot as well. Makes it hard to put together, but once it's assembled, it stays.

 

[score602]

I use stainless t bolt clamps that are used on turbo cars, you can get them tighter then a regular hose clamp and they are super strong http://www.partssystems.com/100-stainless-steel-t-bolt-clamps.html

 

[Ben Holloway]

So I cleaned my coupler, new t bolt clamps and it still didn't work. So my off road mindset took over and here is what i wound up with and I added a new coupler, 2 tanks so far and not a peep. It makes it way more fun when you don't have to swim it to shore once a day.

 

[Screwy]

nice job.

 

[550/440]

I can't see if that has a rubber lord mount or not. I hate to say it, but the bracket that you welded on will most likely tear apart after a season of riding without some vibration dampener there.

 

[Ben Holloway]

There's a bushing on there :icon16: Im still a little worried about it but I would rather weld cracks once year or 2 then fix it every effin day.

 

[escore]

I glanced through this a bit. Not sure why every one is having such a problem getting to the clamps on the head pipe, if you put the one on the head pipe and tighten it before you bolt the head pipe to the manifold then its easy to do that one. Then just point the one for the champer to the top so the head sticks out toward the manifold and pushes against the hull and put a 1/4 inch rachet on it. Be sure the coupler is really clean and try and they should never come apart. I think another big thing no one seemed to mention is to have the right style hose clamps. A traditional clamp seems to me to be wider then the ones that come with the pipes which keeps it from really seating in the groove well.

 

[PAVLOS]

I can't see if that has a rubber lord mount or not. I hate to say it, but the bracket that you welded on will most likely tear apart after a season of riding without some vibration dampener there.

I agree its going to tear up your chamber ( too expensive to lose a part like that thats not even available any more) my tip is loosen the nut at the front part of the chamber(next to the tank) just a little say 1/4 of a turn using a safe nut (the ones with the plastic inside) that way it will still stay in place mounted, and you are giving vibration its way out from there and not thru the coupler.

Good luck !!

 

[Ben Holloway]

I think the main issue with the original design is all the weight of the chamber is just hanging out there with no support, kinda like grabbing a banana by the stem and shaking it. Basically any sort of bump was shaking the chamber out of the coupler. with the second mount it helps tie the motor/headpipe/chamber together. Time will tell what happens but with a bushing to help isolate I'm not to worried about it.