so I ride fresh and occasionally salt water with my skis. I’m assembling a 701 to go in my Krash and rebuilding my 550. Should I be using Loctite or antiseize on everything? I know the superjet manual calls for red Loctite on a lot of things like engine mounts but that seems like a headache down the road. Was thinking loctite is only needed on flywheel and stator bolts? Engine mounting stuff shouldn’t come loose With antiseize?
Loctite v antiseize
- Thread starter Ben34
- Start date
RED loctite (permanent, heat needed to remove) should only be used in like two spots and I can’t even think of them… flywheel bolt maybe? Anyway… BLUE loctite belongs in lots of places. Anti seize opens up a can of worms regarding chemical makeup, galvanic reactions, etc. Personally: if it’s a screw that just sits there (isn’t being constantly tightened), blue loctite can’t hurt; if it’s threads constantly being tightened (impeller, midshaft coupler), good layer of high pressure bearing grease (marine flavor) during assembly. Stainless on stainless, especially, you want all points of contact thoroughly coated, and this is where galling is most likely, so don’t skip it.
Anytime a bolt is long enough to stretch some it will always have tension so antiseize or pipe sealant is ideal. If the bolt or screw is very short then the slightest movement between parts will remove all the tension so locktite is more appropriate. Look through the Superjet maintenance manual and you will see this trend in their recommendations.
- Location
- Downers Grove
I drench nearly everything in the cheap blue loctite from hazardous freight, the exceptions are non-water cooled exhaust hardware, things that get really hot, spark plugs, or the impeller. Those get antisieze. I almost never put a bolt in anything dry, unless its something I never intend on removing and would like the bolt to freeze up. My thought process is that most of the time I don`t want bolts to come loose so they get loctite. The loctite works by filling the extra space in the threads so that it cant rattle lose and has some resistance to turning. The side effect of those open spaces being filled in is that corrosion won`t start cause there`s not really room for water, plus once you get the bolt to spin the loctite acts more like a lubricant than dry rusty threads rubbing on eachother would be. I don`t ride salt so that might be a whole different game, but my daily driver cars do see a lot of salty winter roads. Since I have started coating all of my bolts on my skis, boats, cars, bikes, I have never had a bolt that I had put in break off when taking it back out.
- Location
- Asheville, NC
I have extensively researched this subject, and just to be clear nowhere in the Superjet service manual is Red loctite recommended with the exception of the handlepole bracket mounting hardware. You must be confusing Loctite 572 with Red, it is not. Loctite 572 is a thread sealant and should be used anywhere it is recommended. I personally use it in place of Blue loctite as well when building a surf machine. Any Stainless on Stainless bolts should be coated with a Graphite based anti-seize. Using regular aluminum based anti-seize is only adding another metal to the mix and as SteveC pointed out can create further galvanic reactions. G-Body also pointed out that Blue loctite works by filling the voided areas in-between the threads and thus stopping water or moisture from entering the threads, very good stuff! Cant go wrong with Blue, be VERY careful with Red. As far as loctite 572, there is a Permatex brand of High Temp Thread Sealant readily available at any auto supply store. This is the same as loctite 572, which is a low strength thread lock as well as other good lube for the threads. It is able to be moved after install while still retaining its integrity. This solution also fills the voids in the threads, making it impossible for water to intrude. You should also be using this on any water fitting threads as well as the tiny B-Pipe screws that everyone always gets seized up. You shouldn't have any major issues in fresh water but galvanic reactions can still happen over time so don't take a chance with it!
SXIPro
JM781 Big Bore
- Location
- Here on the 'X' mostly
I can't stand anti-seize. Use that crap for 10 minutes and you'll be finding it all over yourself, your house, your car, your girlfriend for the next 10 years.
Here is 1 place they say to use red. As well as engine mounting and bed plates.
Attachments
This is now in my vernacular. Thanks for that.
- Location
- Asheville, NC
My manual is for FX-1 and Superjet and says different, but do as you wish
- Location
- the jetski grave yard
Just about every bolt on a ski is stainless steel so antisieze isn't really necessary. Lock tight is to keep bolts from coming loose. I use silicone on threads instead. Keeps them from rattling loose and corrosion barrier
Trevorbm
“Only full sends, we’ll fix it later”
- Location
- Xenia Ohio
wait you guys aren't using red Loctite on your b pipe screws??
- Location
- Downers Grove
That's why the call antisieze automotive herpes. Once you get it on something you never get rid of it. Just keep spreading it.
long beach local
long beach local
- Location
- Az
I agree. I also use silicone instead of antisieze/grease or loctite when assembling my ski especially in the surf. It helps with water intrusion into the threads ,makes removal at a later date possible you can wire wheel the bolts like new again run a tap in the threads if necessary. Loctite will do the same thing preserving the threads but silicone is cheaper and I think it may work a bit better . And a carbon hull in salt definitely I silicone everything.
Its a proven fact you can paint an entire battle ship with just one can of anti seize
WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
Locktite is not just for thread locking it is also a thread sealant, most of the stock bolts on a Superjet are not stainless steel, even if they were corrosion can build up between the stainless steel bolt and whatever aluminum part it is screwed into.
The best example I can give is the bolts that bolt the bedplate to the engine mounts, those are always a pain to get out , but if they are stock from Yamaha they are coated with threadlocker and they always come out.
Myself
manic mechanic
- Location
- Twin Lakes AR
Guys, I've been using 'Leak-Lock' for years. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Supco-H...A5t5CoO-HiDFAQM_cAy21PZFuUJzjyFcaAq7dEALw_wcB
Pretty cheap, works GREAT, more pasty instead of liquid so it doesn't just drip everywhere, chemically resistant,......just try it.
Pretty cheap, works GREAT, more pasty instead of liquid so it doesn't just drip everywhere, chemically resistant,......just try it.