650/X-2 Looking for factory pipe tuning advice
- Thread starter Bcrow
- Start date
Did you read the tuning instructions from the Factory Pipe website? Here There's some other instructions I used, can't find them...though they are on the FP website.
I'm running a similar setup to you, I started with the top two screws closed, and opened the bottom up by one full turn. Make sure you are tuning after the carb is dialed in really well. Think I'm running 1 1/8 turn on the bottom screw now, maybe a 1/4 on top screw though can't remember and too lazy to go check. I'm also tuning at 5000 feet elevation, so might have to compensate for that.
My settings are giving me the most reliable across the power band and not bogging down anywhere. Have great top speed, and hits well on bottom end despite having a very over pitched impeller. I'm running a 44SBN, Factory Pipe, High Comp Head, and a 14/19 SOLAS.
Though yea, I found when I retuned my system after rebuilding a few weeks ago, once the carb is dialed in really well, start with 1 turn open on bottom screw and adjust from there. Once it feels the pipe good, play with the carb and pipe for the really fine tuning.
I'm running a similar setup to you, I started with the top two screws closed, and opened the bottom up by one full turn. Make sure you are tuning after the carb is dialed in really well. Think I'm running 1 1/8 turn on the bottom screw now, maybe a 1/4 on top screw though can't remember and too lazy to go check. I'm also tuning at 5000 feet elevation, so might have to compensate for that.
My settings are giving me the most reliable across the power band and not bogging down anywhere. Have great top speed, and hits well on bottom end despite having a very over pitched impeller. I'm running a 44SBN, Factory Pipe, High Comp Head, and a 14/19 SOLAS.
Though yea, I found when I retuned my system after rebuilding a few weeks ago, once the carb is dialed in really well, start with 1 turn open on bottom screw and adjust from there. Once it feels the pipe good, play with the carb and pipe for the really fine tuning.
It's tricky, what I do is get on the starboard side of the ski, then reach down into the port rear corner of the compartment, and you can reach your hand and squeeze it around and under. The tricky part is not dropping the allen head, and getting it to engage the screw, but once you get the hang of it it's easy to adjust.
I haven't had issue tuning carbs, assuming it works right lol. Though I think I'm kinda anal about tuning the carb and pipe to be perfect. In the past, it seemed having the top screw only open, or opened more, made the bottom end snappier (which is also what FP says to do), though also makes the pipe more unreliable when it hits.
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
also with the factory pipe, it really helps to have a dual cooling line with the second line going right into the pipe.. this is better for several reasons, you have colder water coming in so your screws will make more of a difference in adjustment and more pressure to get the screw holes to spray instead of dribble.. to assist with building pressure, get a flow control valve and put a restrictor in the pisser hose... this is actually mentioned on factory pipes website...