accbr
addicted
- Location
- Lexington, KY
I was planning to do this over the winter. Great pics. Can we put this in the FAQ?
making a custom rnsj hood???
- Thread starter tbaer
- Start date
BruceSki
Formerly Motoman25
- Location
- Long Island
awesome writeup frosty. i agree on the tech faq
im definitely doing this soon. wheres the cheapest place to get a lowered nosepiece? i know surfjetlouie had them a while back.
im definitely doing this soon. wheres the cheapest place to get a lowered nosepiece? i know surfjetlouie had them a while back.
accbr
addicted
- Location
- Lexington, KY
I got one from surfjetlouie earlier this year.
N3vrSat1sfied
Military Member
- Location
- Fort Worth, TX
Tbaer just bought one for $40 i dont know where though i ll ask him.
tbaer
USMC
- Location
- BEAUFORT SC
Thanks for the great write up and all the pics:Banane35: I will be cutting the crap out of my hood as soon as i get home as long as my new nose piece is there. I am also going to fab some handholds into the hood I will be sure to post some pics.
Next on the list of chit to do is reinforce the inside of the ski. any tips??
Next on the list of chit to do is reinforce the inside of the ski. any tips??
BruceSki
Formerly Motoman25
- Location
- Long Island
i bought the blowsion kit when i did mine... a little pricier than just buying yards of glass but it was very easy... no cutting required.
helped me out cause it was my first time fiberglassing a ski.
i ground the ribs too. check out the tech faq on it there is plenty of info on there on reinforcing.
dont use too much resin.
helped me out cause it was my first time fiberglassing a ski.
i ground the ribs too. check out the tech faq on it there is plenty of info on there on reinforcing.
dont use too much resin.
tbaer
USMC
- Location
- BEAUFORT SC
i was thinking of using colored carbon fiber for the insdie of the hull to give it a clean/custom look. am i correct in saying that carbon fiber would be lighter than using glass? also i am trying to do a nice job with spending as little money as possible. that is why i don't just go buy a lowered hood and nose piece to match. I grinding the ribs out supposed to be better. i would think the ribs would make the hull stronger?!??
tbaer
USMC
- Location
- BEAUFORT SC
I need a lowered pole bracket now does anybody have one sitting around or know anybody who does? I have also posted this in the WTB section
http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/p=607457#post607457
http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/p=607457#post607457
Frosty
New York Crew
- Location
- Western New York
yes, carbon fiber will be lighter, but more expensive. I used biaxial cloth when I did mine. here a quick overview of how I did it.
- Hull prep - grind off all of the ribs on the sides (i did this to my latest build, but not to my first one). makes it easier to lay the cloth flat. You can leave the ribs in if you like, but you will need to take more time to ensure the cloth lays flat over each rib.
- Fully sand the sides - I think i used 80 grit to really rough it up
- Cut your cloth - for the sides i used a progressively larger width cut to keep it strong on the bond line, but light as possible. 1st layer is a 3" - 4" wide strip cut the length of the bond line. 2nd layer is a 8" strip that covers the first strip. 3rd layer covers the entire side (again from nose to bulkhead) and from bottom to under the hood seal area. I used 8.9oz biaxial cloth. (i used about 12 clips per side on the hood seal area in order to keep the cloth from pulling away. i wrapped each part of the clip with duct tape to keep the clips from sticking to the epoxy.
I did the nose at the same time.
- Fill in the bond line/lay the cloth. I used 2-part foam on my 1st build, but used epoxy/hardener with west systems 410 micro filler on my last build. I'd go with filler not foam - When i filled in each side (bond line) i also wet out my cloth and layed each layer in, one at at time working out air bubbles, but did them all in the same session. In-other-words, I wanted the best chemical bond for all layers, tieing them to the bond line filler. I did not want separate layers, and bond line filler that were only mechanically connected.
I also reinforced the bottom... it was a long winter and I had nothing else to do...
as for coloring, I used Rust-oleum Marine Coatings Topside paint http://rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=4 and it came out nice. not one problem with it so far.
Hope that helps. I would also search the FAQ section as I believe there have been a lot of write ups on this very topic.
- Hull prep - grind off all of the ribs on the sides (i did this to my latest build, but not to my first one). makes it easier to lay the cloth flat. You can leave the ribs in if you like, but you will need to take more time to ensure the cloth lays flat over each rib.
- Fully sand the sides - I think i used 80 grit to really rough it up
- Cut your cloth - for the sides i used a progressively larger width cut to keep it strong on the bond line, but light as possible. 1st layer is a 3" - 4" wide strip cut the length of the bond line. 2nd layer is a 8" strip that covers the first strip. 3rd layer covers the entire side (again from nose to bulkhead) and from bottom to under the hood seal area. I used 8.9oz biaxial cloth. (i used about 12 clips per side on the hood seal area in order to keep the cloth from pulling away. i wrapped each part of the clip with duct tape to keep the clips from sticking to the epoxy.
I did the nose at the same time.
- Fill in the bond line/lay the cloth. I used 2-part foam on my 1st build, but used epoxy/hardener with west systems 410 micro filler on my last build. I'd go with filler not foam - When i filled in each side (bond line) i also wet out my cloth and layed each layer in, one at at time working out air bubbles, but did them all in the same session. In-other-words, I wanted the best chemical bond for all layers, tieing them to the bond line filler. I did not want separate layers, and bond line filler that were only mechanically connected.
I also reinforced the bottom... it was a long winter and I had nothing else to do...
as for coloring, I used Rust-oleum Marine Coatings Topside paint http://rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=4 and it came out nice. not one problem with it so far.
Hope that helps. I would also search the FAQ section as I believe there have been a lot of write ups on this very topic.
If you are trying to do it on a tight budget then carbon probably isn't for you. I would use glass, if you want it colored either buy some dye to add to the resin or put a thin layer of texalium over it. I used 9oz S glass for mine dyed white and it looks pretty nice IMO.
Attachments
ArtMaybee
I'm Baaaack!
- Location
- Mobile, AL
I've been off in my own little world. I haven't even ridden it quite some time.
I'm hoping to possibly be back in the water for summer though.
I'd say you've picked up some nice skills while I was away though. I told you it wasn't that hard
just time consuming.
I'm hoping to possibly be back in the water for summer though.
I'd say you've picked up some nice skills while I was away though. I told you it wasn't that hard
just time consuming.
Frosty
New York Crew
- Location
- Western New York
I've been off in my own little world. I haven't even ridden it quite some time.
I'm hoping to possibly be back in the water for summer though.
I'd say you've picked up some nice skills while I was away though. I told you it wasn't that hard
Thanks, Glad to see your back... now call Jason cuz he's always looking for someone to ride with...
N3vrSat1sfied
Military Member
- Location
- Fort Worth, TX
Frosty,
Thanks for all the sweet right ups!!!!:biggthumpup:
Thanks for all the sweet right ups!!!!:biggthumpup:
tbaer
USMC
- Location
- BEAUFORT SC
i need a lowered pole bracket. does anybody have one or know somebody who does.?.