Making MSD water injection hit sooner

Location
Wisconsin
So I have an MSD ewci with a factory type 4 pipe. My ewci is the older style only adjustable through the dip switches and has a lowest on point of 3500rpm. I'm aware of the setting to 3 cylinder trick to get it to kick in sooner but has anybody tried wrapping both spark plug wires with the sensor wire to effectively cut the kick in rpm in half? I guess I don't know if this would cause some type of interference or blow something up. It seems like the type 4 doesn't need water injection in the mid to top end but could use it down lower than my ewci currently supports.
 
Location
hhh
i run jet in stinger and a fcv on my type 4 and with that i dont see the need for water injection. no bog and pipe stays dry down low.
 
Location
Wisconsin
I haven't gotten it on the water yet so you might be right about it not needing the water injection. I do have a jet in the stinger but my manifold already has the spray bar installed for the water injection and it came with the pipe so I figured I'd try it out. Does your fcv go on the line between the pipe and the stinger?

Also I thought the point of water injection was to wet the pipe down low to slow the sound wave and increase power and then dry the pipe out in the top end to heat it up?
 
Is this stock ignition or TL? If it's stock, you only have one coil, right...? These operate with wasted spark, so both plugs fire every 180 degrees, so, it doesn't matter which coil wire you use, or if you wrap it around both wires.
 
Location
Wisconsin
Stock ignition. I had no idea both plugs fire every 180 degrees. So total loss has two coils and fires separately? In theory wrapping both wires with total loss would work then?
 
Location
Stockton
We have the type 4 on a 701 with water injection hooked up continually to the spray bar, the MSD controller went bad long ago and the new owner can of forex to replace it. With water injection at the spray bar it helps low end quite a bit, I pinched the hose off so the new owner could try the pipe dry and see mid and top without the water but the low end sucked so he can right back and had me un pinch it, he never felt it dry

Scraggly what size jet in and what holder are you using a fuel restricter body to hold the jet?? Which line is the FCv in? Two nipples above the stinger?
 
Stock ignition. I had no idea both plugs fire every 180 degrees. So total loss has two coils and fires separately? In theory wrapping both wires with total loss would work then?
The newer digital TL uses two coils, one per cylinder, that fire independently, so every 360 degrees. So you would need to wrap the wire around both plug wires in a TL case, otherwise the ECWI would think the engine is only going half as fast as it really it.
 
So I have an MSD ewci with a factory type 4 pipe. My ewci is the older style only adjustable through the dip switches and has a lowest on point of 3500rpm. I'm aware of the setting to 3 cylinder trick to get it to kick in sooner but has anybody tried wrapping both spark plug wires with the sensor wire to effectively cut the kick in rpm in half? I guess I don't know if this would cause some type of interference or blow something up. It seems like the type 4 doesn't need water injection in the mid to top end but could use it down lower than my ewci currently supports.

I did the 3 cylinder mode trick and did not notice much difference.

The Jetworks water injection is supposed to start around 1500 rpm. Or the Microtouch MT-16X2-2

We have the type 4 on a 701 with water injection hooked up continually to the spray bar, the MSD controller went bad long ago and the new owner can of forex to replace it. With water injection at the spray bar it helps low end quite a bit, I pinched the hose off so the new owner could try the pipe dry and see mid and top without the water but the low end sucked so he can right back and had me un pinch it, he never felt it dry

Scraggly what size jet in and what holder are you using a fuel restricter body to hold the jet?? Which line is the FCv in? Two nipples above the stinger?

My type 4 fit a main jet at the stinger without modification, I think they come threaded for it. I think I ran a #120.
 
Location
hhh
120 main screws right in the stinger

fcv is between top and stinger.

i will also add i have no desire to go back to a b pipe after this setup
 
Location
hhh
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Location
Wisconsin
That picture doesn't seem to be working @Scraggly

I'm glad to hear you guys have been having good results with this pipe. From what I've been reading a lot of people hate the type 4 and others swear it makes tons of power when setup right. Is it unadvised to run a fcv along with water injection? The setups I've seen look to use one or the other. I don't think I've read about anyone using both.

I didn't think the pipe was too bad to install but that was probably because I put it on the engine first then put them both in at the same time. Changing a coupler looks like it'll be a pain in the ass for sure.
 
Location
Stockton
I see no reason not to use both for flat water if you have all the parts. The spray bar introduces water into the dry pipe and the FCv and stinger jet control outlet water from pipe cooling chamber into the water box to dry the box out some....

The power factor dry pipe is set up with all three by some but without ewic control

Not sure how they set then up for racing
 
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Location
Wisconsin
So the water enters the pipe's water jacket at the back fitting and exits through the two front fittings, one of which goes to the stinger and the other to a pisser?
 
Location
Stockton
exactly, the water enters the cooling jacket of the pipe at the lower barbed fitting on the chamber, water flows out the upper nipple thru a hose that's connected to the stinger........

The middle nipple goes overboard

I believe the FCv goes between the upper nipple and stinger nipple with a jet into the stinger tip nipple is my guess

We have parallel cooling set up so one line from pump feeds the pipe cooling jacket and the other feeds the exhaust manifold to cool the engine

So I prolly got allot of water dumping into the water box lol

The spray bar is now feed constantly and is T off the engine cooling hose from pump thru a 1/2 line thru a metal filter then off that filter up to a stainer then on to the spray bar

MSD is broken but I have a micro touch but the new owner doesn't want to try it

Edit: corrected
 
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Location
Stockton
I'll have to double check the hose agrangment at the stinger my memory of how it's set up their is fading.....

One thing last weekend after we rode and were drying the engines and pipe on the ramp 3 skis had little water out the exhaust but the dry pipe without FCv or jet in it blew out a stream of water the size of the exhaust tube all the way to box it was flipping huge
 
I'll have to double check the hose agrangment at the stinger my memory of how it's set up their is fading.....

One thing last weekend after we rode and were drying the engines and pipe on the ramp 3 skis had little water out the exhaust but the dry pipe without FCv or jet in it blew out a stream of water the size of the exhaust tube all the way to box it was flipping huge

You need one of those reverse flow control valves at the spray bar.
 
Location
Stockton
image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg I double checked I have the stinger routing stated wrong.... It's upper nipple out to stinger tip nipple at the very end...

Nipple just up from the stinger goes over board
 
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