Making MSD water injection hit sooner

Location
Stockton
You need one of those reverse flow control valves at the spray bar.

I'am not sure I follow you on this. Water is flowing out the spray bar correctly and exhaust is not coming back up the hose to the strainer.

What do mean exactly and why would it need it? Thanks
 
Location
Wisconsin
You said you are running dual cooling with the engine and pipe being supplied by separate lines. The way mine is set up is a single feed off the pump to a Y fitting. One side of the Y goes to the solenoid and the other side goes to a T feeding two fittings on the manifold. The rear fitting on the cylinder head is what is supplying water to the back of the chamber. Do you think this will run too hot? The reason I ask is because I can remove my siphon bilge and run another cooling line off the bilge plumbing without too much trouble if it would be beneficial.

The manifold looks like its meant for dual feed lines but it was setup with the T for a single feed line when I got it. My hose routing for the stinger looks right.
 
You said you are running dual cooling with the engine and pipe being supplied by separate lines. The way mine is set up is a single feed off the pump to a Y fitting. One side of the Y goes to the solenoid and the other side goes to a T feeding two fittings on the manifold. The rear fitting on the cylinder head is what is supplying water to the back of the chamber. Do you think this will run too hot? The reason I ask is because I can remove my siphon bilge and run another cooling line off the bilge plumbing without too much trouble if it would be beneficial.

The manifold looks like its meant for dual feed lines but it was setup with the T for a single feed line when I got it. My hose routing for the stinger looks right.

I would run dual cooling with that pipe, it makes heat. Both to the manifold, tap the other side of it. Front of head to pisser, rear of head to bottom of chamber near coupler.
 
Location
Wisconsin
I actually think that a flow control valve that was adjustable to turn off at a certain pressure would be helpful here. It could eliminate water injection modules for simple cases.
This sounds like a really good idea. With a little tuning it would work potentially just as well and probably more reliably.
 
Location
Stockton
With single cooling it will run warmer for sure. The skis we have with pipes and single cooling have water out the pissers that almost burns you it's that hot but it doesn't burn just feels like it will.. With dual cooling it's a lot cooler only warm feeling.., with dual cooling you'll get more water pressure and better spray pattern.

You can run true dual cooling " both in from pump to manifold" or parallel cooling. One advantage to parallel Is if you get a restriction or plug in the cooling system it's much easier to tell where since the system is split... One disadvantage is if you don't pay attention to the pissers and get a plug on the engine side of the system you could over heat the engine badly.

With true dual you engine is always getting water.....

I've never had a plug or an overheat, it's got three pissers and a lot of flow.. I guess people that ride surf are more prone to the plugging with sand and shells.


That spray bar slit likes to get plugged with carbon over time, I cleaned mine 14 months ago
 
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Location
Stockton
Here are a few more pics, the spray bar is being fed off the hose to manifold "engine cooling line" and the pipe is fed off the other line from pump....

This ski was raced locally by the previous owner with this cooling system routing "parallel" so their is plenty of cooling flow for the engine and pipe
image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
 

Philip Clemmons

Owner, P&P Performance
Location
Richmond, Va
You understand you're above 3500 if you're riding the ski don't you? Just putting around puts you way up there in rpms. There is likely no advantage in earlier activation other than a closed course type start.
 
Location
PNW
I'm running the Type 4 on my DASA 900 with dual cooling. No water injection, jetwerks valve between water jacket to stinger with a 125 main jet. I have a Jetwerks ball valve to control overboard water flow and even at half open, the water temp coming out is barely warm.
@wanderer1 recommended this pipe and I'm glad I listened to him. Yes, it's a PITA to get in and out, but it's solid once installed and makes great power for $400 2014-03-19 14.52.14.jpg 2014-03-19 16.40.18.jpg
 
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Location
Wisconsin
You understand you're above 3500 if you're riding the ski don't you? Just putting around puts you way up there in rpms. There is likely no advantage in earlier activation other than a closed course type start.
That's what I was thinking but that seemed to be contrary to what I had been reading. So many of the discussions I read about the MSD controller suggested the other brand controllers were superior mostly because they had lower range.
 

Philip Clemmons

Owner, P&P Performance
Location
Richmond, Va
Go ride around as slow as you can with a tach and see what it says ;)

Keep in mind too if its on really early you'll be loading up the water box with water at low rpms, which is not a good thing.
 
Location
Wisconsin
I mean I'm good with taking your word for it haha. Hopefully the setup I have going now then will work out well.
 
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