Making of the SNX Hull

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
I've have a couple of people ask me how I pattern out parts. I use a regular cotton fabric and super 77.

Spray the plug with super 77 and lay fabric.
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Work out all of the wrinkles and continue to spray adhesive and lay fabric out. Sharpie to mark where the fabric will be cut

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Finished patten is then laid over the carbon and tacked on with super 77 and then cut.

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Pattern and carbon laid into the mold together with super 77 to tack the carbon to the mold. Pattern is removed once most of the carbon has laid down.

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Some more pictures of the reduction nozzle layup.

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Due to the heavy layup schedule and the deep part and 360* layup at multiple angles, this was one of the most challenging layups I've done. Add to that the need to accurately place stainless inserts, made it quite the challenge.

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It was also the most difficult part I've ever pulled. I used almost al of my spreaders to lift the part.

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Not the best out-of-mold finish due to some overspray on the IMC and the excessive adhesive I had to use. The IMC polyurethane clear was only used to keep the fabric from sliding around on the high slip surface. It will get sanded off and Sunshield will finish the part.

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Going to get trimmed and then it's off to be bored.


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How did you make the mounting surface flat? Did you just build up a ton of cloth? Hor did you accurately determine how much cloth to get a good mating surface?

Also, what vacuum pump do you use to infuse? Are you using infusion specific resin?
 
How did you make the mounting surface flat? Did you just build up a ton of cloth? Hor did you accurately determine how much cloth to get a good mating surface?

Also, what vacuum pump do you use to infuse? Are you using infusion specific resin?


I don't quite understand the first questions. Which mounting surface? There's going to be 4 places where different pieces of metal meet the nozzle.

I'm using a two stage harbor freight HVAC pump. Works great. I would like to have a gast, but it's just unnecessary at this point.

I use pro-set infusion resin for the poles and I use resin research composite pro infusion resin (2070) for almost everything else. I also infuse the molds with regular polyester isophthalic resin. It's a bit more viscous and you have to tailor your infusion stack to this otherwise you get dry spots.


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http://m.harborfreight.com/3-cfm-two-stage-vacuum-pump-61176.html

It's nearly impossible to accurately and consistently get a laminate thickness within the tolerances needed to mate up to the stator. There are so many factors involved. Resin saturation, resin flow characteristics at that exact spot (saturation varies within the laminate at different locations), how compressed each layer is in your layup, etc etc. It's not impossible I guess, but it is too difficult with infusion. RTM, a thinner laminate and B side tooling, would be more easily able to reproduce that kind of inside diameter. Instead of trying to hit a specific mating ID, I designed the laminate stack to be thicker than the mating ring so that it can be bored to the correct ID. The same on the exit side. The laminate is about a half inch thick, but after machining will be .223".


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Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
http://m.harborfreight.com/3-cfm-two-stage-vacuum-pump-61176.html

It's nearly impossible to accurately and consistently get a laminate thickness within the tolerances needed to mate up to the stator. There are so many factors involved. Resin saturation, resin flow characteristics at that exact spot (saturation varies within the laminate at different locations), how compressed each layer is in your layup, etc etc. It's not impossible I guess, but it is too difficult with infusion. RTM, a thinner laminate and B side tooling, would be more easily able to reproduce that kind of inside diameter. Instead of trying to hit a specific mating ID, I designed the laminate stack to be thicker than the mating ring so that it can be bored to the correct ID. The same on the exit side. The laminate is about a half inch thick, but after machining will be .223".


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I didnt think 22.5 micros was very much vacuum. It seems to be working for you. There was nother vacuum that was 2.5cfm to 75 microns but i didnt think that was enough vacuum.
 
I didnt think 22.5 micros was very much vacuum. It seems to be working for you. There was nother vacuum that was 2.5cfm to 75 microns but i didnt think that was enough vacuum.

22 microns is a near perfect vacuum. Definitely enough for infusions. You can get the pump for around 130 with their 20% off coupons


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Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
22 microns is a near perfect vacuum. Definitely enough for infusions. You can get the pump for around 130 with their 20% off coupons


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Thank you. I apperently understood it backwards. I thought it drew a 22 micron vacuum which is basically nothing. A 22 micron remainder makes much more sense.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Which company do you like to buy your materials from? Ive been buying from a local store but they do not keep any vacuum supplies in stock and their only carbon fabric is 2x2. I need to find an online retailer. So far i like the fibreglast sitebut have only purcgased local.
 
Have you figures out the nozzle pricing? I feel like im too poor to even look at the pictures

Im going broke making parts, pretty soon I won't be able to afford one myself lol. I haven't nailed down a price yet. However, it is going to be expensive unfortunately. Each nozzle will have 3 separate parts that will need to be machined. One requiring multiple setups on a CNC. Plus the nozzles themselves have to be bored to accept the interchangeable exit rings. all this adds up to a very high manufacturing cost. I am looking at different ways to keep the cost as low as possible though.
 
Which company do you like to buy your materials from? Ive been buying from a local store but they do not keep any vacuum supplies in stock and their only carbon fabric is 2x2. I need to find an online retailer. So far i like the fibreglast sitebut have only purcgased local.

I created a thread with all of my suppliers in the composites section. It also has some suppliers I don't use, but I know are highly recommended. My main source for vacuum bagging and infusion consumables is fiber glass supply. Watch the shipping charges though, they will bend you over and take full advantage. Don't buy resin from them. If you are going to use resin research, buy it direct. I get 99% of my carbon from sollercomposites. Core materials come from all over. I really like Soric for infusions. I use several suppliers for the different types of soric.
 
Im going broke making parts, pretty soon I won't be able to afford one myself lol. I haven't nailed down a price yet. However, it is going to be expensive unfortunately. Each nozzle will have 3 separate parts that will need to be machined. One requiring multiple setups on a CNC. Plus the nozzles themselves have to be bored to accept the interchangeable exit rings. all this adds up to a very high manufacturing cost. I am looking at different ways to keep the cost as low as possible though.
They look awesome you will hopefully do really well with them
 
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Just a minor update. Took the ski out for about 30 minutes on Tuesday. The difference with the total loss and new pipe was night and day. On the pfp with enhancer, there was a noticeable lull in power until the pipe came on, then it just pulled like a freight train. With the tnt pipe and total loss, there was an immediate pull off the bottom that followed through into the mid range and top. The lake was somewhat cold and I think the pipe was seeing too much water pressure. I couldn't get the pipe temp up where it should be. I've rerouted my cooling lines to lower the pressure going into spraybar. I think there is still a lot more in the pipe than what I saw on Tuesday. Even so, I'm impressed.


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swapmeet

Brotastic
Location
Arlington TX
I just wanted to share on facebook something because i had several friends wanting to help.

Can you send a good picture with your logo and a couple colors so i can share a #skiworkscomposites post in the local riding group or whatever other name you trend as.

@Nate_D
I don't follow this thread although i'm going back through and catching up. Because of ^ ^^ This post the lightbulb went off on your FB profile. In case you didn't already know, I approved your request to join Dallas Stand-up Jetskiers or whatever our group is called. ;)

So yeah... whats up. LOL
 
Hey! Glad to have you back ;). There's a lot of nonsense in the thread that doesn't necessarily pertain to the ski, so it's a long read. There's lots of cool pictures though that I don't post on facebook. I try to keep that more towards the parts I offer for sale or will offer for sale.

I didn't put it together that you were the one who approved the FB requests. Thanks! I was in the dark about the LSFR until then. I'm looking forward to meeting you guys this weekend. Take the ski out for a rip and let me know what I need to change for the revision. Always looking for feedback on my work.


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Titanium pinch bolts came in today.

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Unfortunately I had to send them back. They were suppose to be full thread. Probably another week turn around to have them fixed. No big deal, still don't have my anodizer built. Hopefully I can get around to that this weekend.


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