Hi guys, fairly new to the forum and getting ready to start my first new build but could use a little help. I am rockering the front end of an older wdk-rok hull and want to add rails around the entire new nose. I was wondering if there was a kit or mold for doing this or if people did it from scratch, and if so how. Thanks.
Custom/Hybrid making rails from scratch
- Thread starter kinevac
- Start date
JGringo
When in doubt, Throttle-out.
- Location
- Lafayette, Louisiana
You will have to do it yourself and it won't be fun...
I widened my rails on my superjet using Balsa wood core and then a sandwich of 8oz. glass and Kevlar to mold it into the side of the hull... You can check out my sig for more photos. As for the nose though... that's going to be a feat... I would imagine using two-part foam to make the shape, then glass over it. After it has cured you can dig out the foam and reinforce underneath the lip.
-Gringo
****** Post 59
I widened my rails on my superjet using Balsa wood core and then a sandwich of 8oz. glass and Kevlar to mold it into the side of the hull... You can check out my sig for more photos. As for the nose though... that's going to be a feat... I would imagine using two-part foam to make the shape, then glass over it. After it has cured you can dig out the foam and reinforce underneath the lip.
-Gringo
****** Post 59
Last edited:
Schmidty721
someone turf my rails
- Location
- WI
http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/103641...uot-SJ-Based-Carbon-Free-Ride-Ski-build/page3
I have a few photos on page 3 of my build thread. Used two part foam to shape the nose, and pink polystyrene to build and shape the side rails.
Time consuming, but not super difficult. Trial and error my friend.
I have a few photos on page 3 of my build thread. Used two part foam to shape the nose, and pink polystyrene to build and shape the side rails.
Time consuming, but not super difficult. Trial and error my friend.
Thanks for the advice, i used some 2 part foam this weekend and now have a mold i am going to start sculpting. I t was my first time using the foam so i ended up standing it on its nose and pouring it while covering the openings with duct tape. Also if anybody is thinking of using the foam a mold release wax is a great invention. Here are a few pics of what i have so far, feel free to leave any comments questions or advice.
Attachments
- Location
- wichita, ks
Ya its a new experience using foam to form, for you and i. But I don't think the rails will be hard I thing with some glass and patience is everything
- Location
- Jackson MI
I know ken KCMasterpiece? i think is his name rockered his fx1 and then re added a lip around it because the splash was too much for the surf. Maybe check with him.
- Location
- NYC/Long Island
I have the same hull in carbon. You're a braver man than me! lol It's looking good, keep us updated
My decision was made easier by the fact the nose was pretty smashed up anyways, but if i had a carbon hull i probably wouldnt do this lol. I am just curious, how thick are the rails on your carbon? The ones on this hull are are probably close to 3/8" thick. Seems to be adding a lot of weight.
- Location
- NYC/Long Island
I don't know exact measurement, if I can remember to measure it, i'll get you a measurement. They are about that thick though. It seems to be a pretty strong ski for the surf and it weighs 280lbs. Mine is cut up at the moment, I opened the tray because I suspected waterlogged foam. It wasn't as bad as I expected and the water got in from the intake grate bolts and the steering cable/trim cable tubes at the bulkhead. If the layup is anything like mine, you would be shocked at how thick the gunwhales are.
Honestly I am amazed at how thick "everything" in that ski is. I actually just finished cutting the the bottom deck back to where I want the rocker curve to start, and removed the WDK water box mount as I won't need it. I was suprised at how wet the foam was inside the mount :/, makes me question if I should open up the tray also. As far as the rails go I am thinking I am going to cut the outside veritcal wall of the rail off, then router the underside down to about 1/8" thick. Then using the current thinner rail as a guide bring the outside of the rail at a 45 degree angle similar to the backie chan hull, and continue a thin rail around the nose using some thinner square foam as a guideline. Then to compensate for strength I am planning to run a layer of carbon along the bond line in the inside of the hull. Hope it all works out. I actually am posting all the new pics tonight in my build thread http://www.x-h2o.com/index.php?threads/my-first-build.144540/. So you can see the progress. Should be interesting, I am hoping I can get it done by the 1st of March.
- Location
- NYC/Long Island
So does your ski have a foam core? I'm a bit confused why you say the foam inside the Waterbox mount.
I am referring to is the mount in the front of the ski that was designed so you could mount the WDK waterbox too; "at least that is what I was told", it is about a 3x3 square that is about 3 inches tall with 4 screw holes in it. At least in my ski. As I was cutting the bottom deck I ended up cutting the bottom of the mount off and inside there was foam, which was very wet. Maybe he built the carbon without this feature. As far as having a foam core, I do not think the body of the hull does, but the tray may have a foam core, not sure though. Anyways hope that help clear up your question.
Draggingto
No Clue
- Location
- Brooklyn MI
Huh, my Rok does not have that block that you speak of in the front. And my ski has NO foam in it. not even in the tray.
I will have to post a pic so everyone knows what I am talking about, maybe I just got a wierd ski lol I know it is an older hull and one of the first ones he produced.
- Location
- Taupo NZ
My Rok, built mid 2012, has foam in it but I asked for it since I wanted a surf ski. Probably is just Great Stuff expanding foam though. I also don't have that block, just some inserts for rubber straps.
I'm pretty sure the ski is a glass/carbon mix btw (not really sure what Jeff gave me in the end). It seems pretty thick.
- Location
- NYC/Long Island
Mine was foamed as well and since re foamed. Its not great stuff foam, it is actual 2 part foam.I refoamed because I lost my intake grate and saw water dripping. It wasn't as bad as I thought and probably not worth opening it. However I did find a few bulkhead leaks at trim tube and steering tube. Mine isn't 100% carbon either since it has a fiberglass core. This isn't done to save on material cost but to strengthen the hull. The fiberglass has properties that carbon misses. Better to have fiberglass core, ive heard of a case jeff used a foam core and it delaminated underneath the engine bay. I Only heard of one case and possible water intrusion can come from anything like a deep scratch on bottom of hull.
My hull is a 2010
My hull is a 2010
Thanks for the great information once I start putting everything back together I will pay special attention to some of those problem areas for water leakage. I did end up cutting that block out up front and the foam inside was pretty wet, and it did look like a 2 part foam. As far as the nose goes I laid two thin layers of fiberglass for the mold, and for the inside of the nose I am going to to a layer of heavier biax, 3 layers carbon, then another layer biax. I am hoping that will be strong enough, but I am open to suggestions. I also picked up a blue sheet of insulation foam to start making the rails, should be interesting. I believe this ROK is an early 2010, here is a picture of that block I talked about. Thanks for the input.
