Blaster maybe a fuel problem?....

[dfwstandup]

i just wanna start by saying "yes, i have searched this and read the other posts." but i am lost after the first couple posts. i wanted to start a new thread so that i can ask my own question and yall can dumb your answers down to newbie level.:thinking:

i finally got the blaster from making that noise. got it started and running on the lake. After about 5 min of riding it will bog and die. it will start right back up and idle but with gas applied it will bog and die. i can idle and move across the lake perfect so it cant be getting hot or anything like that?.. right? (my pisser is pushing hard) the carb has been rebuilt and all new gas lines and fuel filter. what could be my problem with this thing?

 

[madscientist]

possibly a rear crank seal popped out of the case?

 

[dfwstandup]

i just read that you had just done yours. how can i find that this is my problem? what should i do first?

 

[madscientist]

visual inspection of the back of the motor. you may need to remove the coupler cover to better inspect it.

 

[dfwstandup]

Should I take the motor out? Could I have a fuel problem I should check before opening up the case?

 

[madscientist]

if you can turn the jets open a full turn and it positively affects the situation then go to the cases.

 

[RoTAxGreNade]

Did you have this problem before or after the carb was rebuilt ?
Just remember electrical and fuel issues are the 2 hardest things to identify - Many symptoms may feel like fuel but can be electrical and vice versa.

What was that "noise" you got rid of ?

 

[dfwstandup]

I had a thread about it in driveline called 61x case problem. I don't know if I would of had the problem before because it wouldn't ever stay running till the new carb rebuild. After I got it on the water and now this is happening.

 

[RoTAxGreNade]

Well if this is a new problem then you should go back to the last thing you did and recheck your work - we all have at one time or another boffed something up in the quest of fixing something!

 

[RoTAxGreNade]

Read your other post - So what got rid of the noise issue ?
I have had some iffy starters do that in the past and I always had the urge to go to the bendix right away - Also the starter cable is not in the most friendliest spots for longevity.
Same with the ground cable if you still have it mounted to the starter ( I just run them to the had or case somewhere).


Now back to some of the other issues you found.... no woodruff key ???? Many times the key will fall out when removing the flywheel and will get grabbed by the magnets of fall down in the case or bilge. That little puppy can create a mess if it decides to come out and play at speed- but that's only if you got the flywheel close enough to run or just replaced it without finding the old one. That key is critical to install the flywheel in the proper position and has nothing to do with keeping it there - it's the precisely machined tapered surfaces that keeps it there.
IF you are sure there was no key there then I would have to question the mechanical ability of the prior owner and would be worried about what other things that he did half a$$ed on that motor!

Bottom line - start with the basics first before tearing the motor apart - You mentioned once it got hot things went to crap, did it run okay after it cooled down ?
Seeing how many times people have had that flywheel off it is possible someone went too far in with the puller bolts and nicked one of the stator coils and it only acts up when hot. BTDT !!! lol

 

[dfwstandup]

i checked the crank seal as people were talking about and it isnt out like other say it should be. everything is in its place. the stator does have a few dings here and there. should i get back into the case and post pics? change it? i didnt think that something that small could effect the motor as much as cutting off and not running at all. i dont understand why it would idle fine and happen only when i apply gas it cuts out if the coil was the cause of my problem... remember i am a newbie to the jet ski world but i do consider my self someone that can turn a wrench and do things correctly. i just havent been around everything long enough to be able to diagnose my problem.

i did get a woodruff and install that when putting everything back together.

my noise problem was bad teeth on the starter. the starter was new but the bendix was rusted closed. they put a new starter on it and assumed that was the problem and im guessing trying to start it after that made the teeth on the starter weak or made crack in it. i looked at the teeth and they were fine but after i tried with the new bendix they must of finally gave away and broke and that was my noise. changed the starter and it started right up.
.

 

[RoTAxGreNade]

We all had to learn this stuff at one time or another and you seem to have basic common sense with things so you'll be just fine!

If this is a problem you think you picked up after your carb build, back track and double check your work - I have forgotten and missed things many times in my haste to get wet.
If you have access to a VOM you can check the resistance on the pulser and charge coils - the bitch is you have to open the e box up ( which is not a bad thing to go in once in awhile and inspect) to get to the connectors.
The charge coil is the brown/white and that wire to ground (black coming from stator) should read 497.7 - 608.3 ohms for the 62T and 365ohms for the 61X
pulser is white/red to grd = 12.6- 15.4 ohms
I also have used the "ac" function of my meter and cranked the motor over to see the output voltages... 30- 60 VAC for the charge coil and 4-5 vAC for the pulser ( you may need a good ol analog meter for that one).
If all looks good there you may have to heat the stator up with a heat gun carefully and see if your reading go out.

More than likely this isn't your problem but can't hurt to check the condition of the coil wires but pull the boots off, cut a little off then jam your leads in the best you can - should be3.5 - 4.7 ohms. Then manhandle the wires starting from the coil and see if your resistance changes.
Orange to black should read .078-.106 ohms
After all this you may want to check into the CDI.

Dumb question - do you have the overheat sensor still hooked up and does the ski run normally after it cools down ?

 

[dfwstandup]

i do have the overheat sensor on the ski. i took the old stator out today and put my other stator from my parts motor. i havent been able to get to the lake and test this ski. i may of done something stupid and took the guys word on the parts stator that is now on the blaster cause he said he used a meter on it and it was all good.

 

[dfwstandup]

update -

hit the lake today. ski did cut out again BUT would start right back up and run if you were light on the throttle. i took the over heat senor off at the lake after it did it only after about 5 min of riding. after that it ran for a lot longer. i did change the stator out and it seems to be doing its job and the guy was right about it being good and tested. What else could i be looking for cause the blaster is still cutting out. riding for a lot longer and stronger BUT still cutting out.

p.s. i let it sit for about 30 min after it started cutting out more often and then it ran for a while after letting it sit.


thanks in advance guys for the help. Yall have all been a big help so far. hoping this week i can tinker with it and be able to meet the lewisville guys with it on sunday.

 

[RoTAxGreNade]

By taking the sensor off did you mean just removing it from the head and still connected ? Just dike that switch off and try it then the next time you're in the box properly cap and stow the pink wire.
"usually" when the sensor switch closes it sends a low ( ground to the cdi and tells it to reduce rpm's - like 3000 ?) - runs like crap basically but shouldn't cut out.
At this point you have one of the worse problems we all dread... and intermittent issue but the fact that it appears to be heat would lead one to the stator.
Well you only have 2 other components -CDI and coil.

 

[dfwstandup]

Yes. I just took it off the head. Thinking yhe sensor wouldn't get hot just in the engine bay. What is the pink wire to? What's it do? Should I
Remove the sensor
And cut the wire back as far as possible then cap it off?
You had mentioned cdi and coil, how could I inspect these things while I'm working in the box to make sure they are doing there job?

 

[RoTAxGreNade]

Not much to really inspect on the CDI and as far as the coil goes I gave you the measurements in one of my long winded posts above, like I said it's gonna be a tough one to figure out as it is intermittent.
The sensor could be faulty and causing weird resistances even though it's not really getting hot - The switch is normally open and when an overhead condition happens it closes connecting a ground to the pink wire which tells the CDI to reduce rpms, kinda sounds like a rev limiter.
Old school freestyle guys used to run an on/off switch up to the bars so they activate it to cut power and make the ski manageable while doing hood tricks etc.
Either way - $hit can the temp switch

 

[dfwstandup]

good deal. ill do that tomorrow. im not sure when ill be able to get back to the lake due to the lack of funds cause this ski is penny pinching me. ill cut the wire and cap it off. i went back and read the coil and cdi post and ill start checking those things.

i almost wanna start checking the stator but what are the odds it could be the same thing going wrong with 2 diff stators that both check out good?

 

[madscientist]

i am an advocate for excess ground circuits. i replaced the heat sensor wires with an 8ga ground lead to the inside of the ebox as reassurance that all of my ignition had adequate ground.

overkill? maybe...but a weak ground circuit can cause your symptoms of failure.

 

[dfwstandup]

okay so in NEWBIE terms your basically cutting the black wire that goes to the head and grounding it somewhere in the ebox? why does grounding this wire help? (if thats what your actually doing) if not please explain.