Other Military grade handlebar mount bilge switches????

[OCD Solutions]

I keep getting asked if I supply the handlebar style bilge switches and my answer is simple. No. But I would consider it if enough people were interested.

As I have posted many times before, there are two distinct versions of the CPI military grade handlebar switches and the most common version is the cheap one. The sole reason being that the good one costs almost twice as much. The upside is that while double the price, the expensive switch will last several years longer than the cheap one.

The question I have for members today is; if I can provide a military grade handlebar mount switch for $115, (not including the mount, just the switch with 7 ft of wire), would any of you ever actually buy one at that cost?

UPDATE: Found a cheaper supplier that would reduce the price from $115 down to $95.

UPDATE #2: I pulled the trigger and ordered 100 of the high quality switches.

 

[McDog]

I would. My regular one didn't even last 5 three gallon tanks of gas. It is either on or on stronger for my bilge pump choices now. It won't turn off. Pisses me off.

 

[OCD Solutions]

I guess the argument I would make is why spend $115 when my Surf Armor switch is only $45 and will last just as long. Is having the switch in the handlebars worth that much more to you?

Not trying to talk you out of it, just trying to gauge peoples commitment level to them is all.

Personally, I loved the first one I had but the next two replacements failed in short order and left a bad taste in my mouth. I wasn't until later that I discovered that there were two versions available and only recently discovered a somewhat reasonable source for them.

If enough people are interested and willing to put down a deposit, I may place an order with my supplier.

 

[garretonufer]

I prefer a switch on the bars. I'd be interested but I already have a switch for each of my skis. Wouldn't look to buy any until one goes out

 

[McDog]

Im down. Another idea would be to figure out a way to mount the surf armor switch on the handle bars.

 

[OCD Solutions]

Im down. Another idea would be to figure out a way to mount the surf armor switch on the handle bars.

I have that figured out already for the RRP poles but nothing yet that is universally adaptable to all handpoles.

 

[DAG]

Im down. Another idea would be to figure out a way to mount the surf armor switch on the handle bars.

I 5200 my surfarmor on the inside of the chinpad works like a champ on my xmw pole

 

[FearMyWrX]

I prefer the switch on the bars too, but for the added cost, I'd find elsewhere to mount it. Plain and simple. I went from the handlebar switch to the bulkhead when I purchased your switch.

My question to you OCD, why would it be so much more? The 6.5' of added wire really would increase the cost from $65 to $115?

 

[OCD Solutions]

Retail on the CPI switch is $96. If you can find it for $65 please share your source.

 

[willcastner]

I personally would not spend the extra money on the handlebar swtich. I have you surf armor switch allready and love it. I would not have spent an extra $70 to put it on the bars.

Can you post a picture of how you put the switch on the RRP poles though. If I can move my switch up to my RRP pole easily for free I would


Will

 

[OCD Solutions]

Its already posted up in the sale thread for the surf armor switches.

 

[FearMyWrX]

Retail on the CPI switch is $96. If you can find it for $65 please share your source.

Maybe I dug a little deeper than intended with my comment. I was referring to your "surf armor" switch for $65. Not sure what a CPI switch is.

**Edit: I googled it and it's just a different style switch, similar to the hot products/blowsion one? So your going to create that style switch all decked out OCD Solutions style?

It was my understanding that you were just going to add 6.5 more feet to your current set up. Looks like I was a little off

 

[OCD Solutions]

Lol, no worries, it actually makes a good point and adds another option to the discussion. For those who don't know, I started off building a good switch for $45. Due to customer desire to have a handlebar mounted switch, I offered my switch in an extended model for $65 that could be mounted up in the handlepole area. It's a decent option but it's much bulkier and harder to find mounting options for than the CPI style rubberized switches.

I still get asked to provide the original style handlebar mount switch but I am just not comfortable selling the standard grade switch that most are familiar with. I recently found a supplier with a price I can work with but wanted to present the options and see where interest was.

Here's some data so guys can see the difference between the switches. Switches are presented in order of grade and price starting with the best and most expensive.

Military grade toggle 16awg wires

Military grade toggle 18awg wires

Commercial grade toggle 18awg wire available in 2 configurations.

And here is the Blowsion switch which appears to be a commercial grade submersible switch which is a very economical choice.

Now don't get me wrong, I'm not here to bash Blowsion or their switch, just pointing out what is available and the differences between all the options.

 

[JetManiac]

Military grade have the rubber covering the switch and also covering the wires. It would be extremely hard for water to get inside.

Military grade toggle 16awg wires

Military grade toggle 18awg wires

These are the switches sold by blowsion, hot products, and others. The rubber over the switch ends and is only glued over the wiring harness. This joint always seems to fail, water gets in and the switch is toast. I went through 5 switches before I realized what was failing and 'switched' to the other style.

Easiest way to identify them is the different shape to the buttons.


Commercial grade toggle 18awg wire available in 2 configurations.

And here is the Blowsion switch which appears to be a commercial grade submersible switch which is a very economical choice.

Now don't get me wrong, I'm not here to bash Blowsion or their switch, just pointing out what is available and the differences between all the options.[/QUOTE]

 

[kcmasterpiece]

these are the switches sold by blowsion, hot products, and others. The rubber over the switch ends and is only glued over the wiring harness. This joint always seems to fail, water gets in and the switch is toast. I went through 5 switches before i realized what was failing and 'switched' to the other style.

lol

 

[OCD Solutions]

Bang on Chris, the contoured switches are the indicator that you have one of the good switches and if you go back in posts where guys have posted up pics of their switches that they loved, you will most likely see the rounded off switches.
For example, the Fred mod where member AugustaF modded a start/stop housing to accept one of these good CPI switches.

Well there's an idea...I do have a bunch of spare start/stop housings... :scratchchin:

 

[OCD Solutions]

Well here's some good news, just found another supplier that is $20 a switch cheaper. That would bring the cost of each switch down to $95 by the time I extended the leads and wrapped it all in black loom and added connectors for a truly plug and play option for all my kits.

You would still need to figure out how you would want the switch mounted though or I could source out a supplier for the billet brackets as well but once again, I am trying to stay small and not carry inventory that I cannot build myself.

 

[Mark44]

Have had that style switch for 8 years without issue. Who knows how old it really is it came with the ski when I bought it.

Mark44

 

[djkorn1]

I am AMAZED that people still waste money on bilge switches when there are Rulemate pumps with built in float switches that do not fail and have been proven for 14 years.

Bilge switch = waste of money. I'll never put one on my ski...

Rulemate 750: $75 with built in float switch and bilge pump.... you are done forever. Hook it up to your battery and forget about bilges for the rest of your riding career. No switch to turn on and off, no dead batteries, no forgetting to turn on your switch and sinking your ski....etc etc etc.

 

[OCD Solutions]

Yes DJ, we are more than aware of your opinion on this subject. You post it in every single thread regarding bilges, bilge pumps, bilge switches, and even in a couple politics threads i'm sure. Thankfully there is room on this earth for more than one person's opinion.

Now, since this thread is not titled "do you think I should use a bilge switch" please refrain from posting further along that subject and try to stay on topic. Maybe even consider opening your mind to new ideas and concepts that may actually protect your house and family from a fire started by your unprotected, hard wired "automatic" bilge pump.