Milling the stock head

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washmo-joe

Location
washington, MO.
Just got some refund money and bought the wet pipe and delta force cages/reeds for an '07 SXR, i plan on just removing the rubber grommets from the intake for now. I have a local guy who could mill the stock head, how much should he take off, is this even a good idea??? What about the flywheel would this be worthwhile to do this now, and how much should be safely taken off? I dont plan on any more engine mods this year.
Thanks for any info!!
 
Millertime

Millertime

what kind of riding? for me I would do a .030 base gasket and have .030 taken off the head. $60 well spent. the .010 thicker base gasket will give it a bit more port timing.
 
W

washmo-joe

Location
washington, MO.
we do alot of mock racing and hit whatever waves the river will give us, hopefully an occasional barge will throw some good rollers. Definitely plan on riding alot this year and hard!

Thank you

what about carberation, anything need to be done there? I believe im getting new jets w/ the pipe right??
 
W

washmo-joe

Location
washington, MO.
Thank you Ice...so if i change the base gasket to .060 and stock is .020 I am raising the cylinder a net of .040. My question is do i need to mill the head .040 just to get back to stock compression? And if i took an extra .020 where does that put me cc wise as compared to buying aftermarket domes?

As you can tell from my questions im new at this so thank you for your help!
 
IceRocket1286

IceRocket1286

Site Supporter
Location
Metro Detroit
I can not honestly answer the head milling question. I had a stock head milled .020 and had the domes cut to act as "drop down" domes, so the domes were further down into the cylinder as you can buy them from TBM and I believe JSU as well...and maybe some others. I forget what spec exactly my domes were "dropped," and I no longer own the head.

If you are looking at buying an aftermarket head, I'd say go for the TBM limited setup, with the drop down domes and universal head cap. The universal head cap allows the fit of either the Factory Pipe Dry Pipe or TBM's own twin pipes. If you are not running an aftermarket pipe I would still get the universal head cap incase you ever want to sell it...it will make it more appealing to others who may have one of those two pipe options. A girdle kit when running a dry pipe is also necessary to prevent cylinder cracking. I even recommend it for a wet pipe but that is just my opinion, I like to be on the safe side, and once again it would be more appealing to all if I chose to sell it.

I believe TBM recommends 26cc domes for their limited setup, however you can run whatever you'd like, depending on how crazy you want to get or what octane gas you would like to run.

That is just my personal opinion on how I would set up my own ski if I was building what you are looking for. I would, however, not buy a TBM head as I have my own custom made one's for my Limited race ski, and I have a few extras. Nothing wrong with TBM at all, but I wouldn't spend the cash since I already have my custom heads, that is all. For you, TBM is the way to go IMO. Tim Bushman is also a great guy and has great advice and is very knowledgeable, speak with him about your setup and he can probably set you up beautifully.

Hope that helps,

Luke
 
Motorheads5

Motorheads5

Livin the generation gap
Location
ketchikan alaska
For me I would not want a try this approach on a 07 sxr ! Talk to group k for a dimension as far as milling the head and also about the base gasket thickness you will also need to rejet your carb's and probably change timing. right now you have a really nice boat that run's perfect be very careful about wanting to do a budget buildup.I would recommend bolt on mod's like a pipe and impeller before I tore apart a new topend.
 
IceRocket1286

IceRocket1286

Site Supporter
Location
Metro Detroit
He already has a pipe. That also means he has already re-jetted as well. The .060 base gasket is the most common way to go for all limited SXR's, I do not really hear of anyone dong anything else. It also has worked good on budget stock class builds. I have seen these dyno tested and rode skis with such a setup and they run great. Group K is also a great place to call and get info from regarding your build.
 
rollin5150

rollin5150

Location
Idaho
Well, I am relatively new to riding standups (my 4th year) and I purchased a 07 SXR new when they came out. Last year I installed a wet pipe as well. I was surprised with the increase in power and it has changed the way that I ride. I am still getting used to the power switch that it provides. I was actually looking at doing the same as you but found myself investing more into handling mods so that I can ride the ski better and have a better feel for when I do the the next engine mod, I will know what exactly it is providing.
 
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washmo-joe

Location
washington, MO.
I'm calling Group K tomorrow and probably sending them the parts they need to bring me up to the "Hammer 1 kit". Since i have the pipe, i believe i'm about $700.00 away from reaching that point. I'll try to get some pictures and results....thanks for the input
 
Mark44

Mark44

Katie's Boss
Location
100% one place
What ever you do you need to check your squish how come nobody mentioned that. Just don't start milling without knowing the numbers.

Mark44
 
IceRocket1286

IceRocket1286

Site Supporter
Location
Metro Detroit
Mark44 said:
What ever you do you need to check your squish how come nobody mentioned that. Just don't start milling without knowing the numbers.

Mark44
Click to expand...

very True, sorry for leaving that out. I have checked squish with my setups often, I guess its one of those thigns that becamse ritual and skipped my mind!
 
ross_taylor800

ross_taylor800

Ride it like a rental
Location
Ft. Worth TX
Well I hope i didnt screw up, I had my head milled 20 thousands and didnt put an aftermarket gasket on or anything, just milled it and stuck it back on. I guess I'll see how it goes.
 
ross_taylor800

ross_taylor800

Ride it like a rental
Location
Ft. Worth TX
correct me if i wrong but its the amount of room you have between the piston and the cylinder head. The only thing im confused about is how much room you need and what is acceptable and how to read the solder after doing a squish test. I milled my head down 20 thousands and put sealant around the bottom of the head to keep water out and from what ive been told it brought me up to 180 psi from 160. I want to do a squish test but i dont know what the results are supposed to look like.
 
global warmer

global warmer

big time gas pumper
Location
on the beach
i am also looking at doing these mod's to my wet piped sxr,regarding the tbm girdled head,can anyone let us know how much machining is needed to clear the b pipe manifold and will this compromise the waterjacket sealing,bearing in mind it's made to run with a dry pipe!thank's
 
Mark44

Mark44

Katie's Boss
Location
100% one place
u

ross_taylor800 said:
correct me if i wrong but its the amount of room you have between the piston and the cylinder head. The only thing im confused about is how much room you need and what is acceptable and how to read the solder after doing a squish test. I milled my head down 20 thousands and put sealant around the bottom of the head to keep water out and from what ive been told it brought me up to 180 psi from 160. I want to do a squish test but i dont know what the results are supposed to look like.
Click to expand...

You are correct, you are measuring your squish band.

Use a micromiter or calipers to measure the solder you are looking for .040-.045. Remember to lay the solder from front to back not side to side.

Mark44
 
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