Freestyle More Bpipe fine tuning questions or is it something else

Location
Idaho
From the FFP limited instructions

Some engines may react differently from the above. For example, while testing the 650 Super Jet we found that we gained top end performance by running the top screw open and the others closed. You may use any combination of the three screws to achieve the desired performance. However, AT LEAST ONE SCREW MUST REMAIN OPEN AT ALL TIMES TO PREVENT DAMAGE TO THE PIPE.
 

Philip Clemmons

Owner, P&P Performance
Location
Richmond, Va
put your thumb over a waterhose nozzle, what happens?

You build pressure IN the line, but to mist the water better, you need to build pressure IN THE HEADPIPE, which would mean restrictors AFTER the pipe.

Im fighting the same issue right now on my new motor.................If I ever figure it out I'll let you know what I did..........lol
 

Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
Ive got a restrictor in the headpipe out put too, its neccesary to fill the cavity with water.

along with a sparkplug tip pushed into the stinger, and a jetworks valve.

IM saying, that the only way I could get decent bottom end out of the B pipe was to run it very very dry, with just a mist of water.
 
Location
Idaho
You build pressure IN the line, but to mist the water better, you need to build pressure IN THE HEADPIPE, which would mean restrictors AFTER the pipe.

Im fighting the same issue right now on my new motor.................If I ever figure it out I'll let you know what I did..........lol
Correct!!
 

Philip Clemmons

Owner, P&P Performance
Location
Richmond, Va
Ive got a restrictor in the headpipe out put too, its neccesary to fill the cavity with water.

along with a sparkplug tip pushed into the stinger, and a jetworks valve.

IM saying, that the only way I could get decent bottom end out of the B pipe was to run it very very dry, with just a mist of water.

I think you typed it wrong........LOL

I just read your "ordeal thread" and what you did is exactly right..........................Too much overboard will decrease pressure everywhere. I had a FCV that would not open b/c the pressure was too low. Going to get my restrictors now and test tomorrow!
 

Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
Actually, ive recently done my wifes boat, so I might be mixing up in my memory what I did to hers, versus what I did to mine a couple of years ago..

I used 3/8 nylon bushings from lowes hardware section, they reduce the cooling flow path down to 1/4" I think.
the spark plug end works really well at the stinger! plugs right in there, and reduces that hole size by about half too.
 
lots of good info guys, just got my ski back together i got b pipe , ada head 33 cc domes, msd enhancer ignition, carbon tech reeds, stock carbs,jetworks flow control valve pro modle top end balistic, id like to have good bottom end with some decent top end, i like to freesyle but like to do high speed runs occasianly, what would yall suggest to set my pipe up and carb needle settings.
 
hey polish have ya done anything with your waterbox? try these b pipe settings- top bout 1 1/4 turn, mid shut, bottom cracked open a little! i just replaced a factory pipe waterbox with a uk based loki customs stock modified waterbox and could not believe how much extra power/torque was added.
 

Dustin Mustangs

uʍop ǝpıs dn
Location
Holland, MI
hey polish have ya done anything with your waterbox? try these b pipe settings- top bout 1 1/4 turn, mid shut, bottom cracked open a little! i just replaced a factory pipe waterbox with a uk based loki customs stock modified waterbox and could not believe how much extra power/torque was added.

That's similar to what I do. Bottom cracked just a bit. Top one gets adjusted for what type of riding I'm doing. Surf just short of 2 out, buoys closed, rec somewhere in between. Works pretty well as that top one is so easy to adjust.
 

Polish jet pilot

4aces4aces4aces4aces4aces
Location
Warsaw, Poland
I've heard that repacing the w/b is a good idea and that it does increase torque and power, just wondering by how much.
I talked to Chris from ATP and was told that definitely I have too much water in my system and that maybe I should bore the nozzle just a bit more (from 84 to 85mm). I guess all skis are different and require personal adjustments (kinda obvious).

What do you guys recommend for a stinger mod (I guess that one helps quite a bit too)...?
 

Polish jet pilot

4aces4aces4aces4aces4aces
Location
Warsaw, Poland
Update:

My bottom screw craked open, my top craked open - my pipe finally sizzels. Well that does not help much. Little bog just for the first second or two, then - very fast, but still the hit is not as it should be. I guess I will crak the top a bit more. I think I need more compression - running at 175 psi now, I could easily go to 200..

And as previously stated - the prop probably could get a lower pitch. I did not lighten the flywheel - maybe I should??
 

Dustin Mustangs

uʍop ǝpıs dn
Location
Holland, MI
Have you verified that fcv is holding back flow at idle? Does hit better/worse/the same if you let it idle for an extended period first?? Are you sure your ls screws on your carb are set right??? I just tweaked those on my ski using the tach method and found a bunch more low end hiding in there. Might want to try increasing or decreasing your pop-off as well...
 
That's similar to what I do. Bottom cracked just a bit. Top one gets adjusted for what type of riding I'm doing. Surf just short of 2 out, buoys closed, rec somewhere in between. Works pretty well as that top one is so easy to adjust.

good idea,there is something coming in the future to cure this issue and have the best of both worlds if you use both
 

Polish jet pilot

4aces4aces4aces4aces4aces
Location
Warsaw, Poland
By looking at the plugs - the engine looks pretty dialed in. I might open the High Screws as the do affect the Low citrcuit. I will also verify the FCV (maybe I should adjust it so it flows less...?)

Pop off - some sources say to change the springs when you install the bpipe - others (e.g Fpipe) mention just the Hihg speed jet... what is your opinion on that? I did change the springs as far as I recall ( i think 95 gr)

Thank you!
 
i dont know if changing the popoff will fix the problem your describing but, i can assure you the ski will run better, much better if you get the popoff adjusted correctly. its amazing how much two identical springs can be off.
 
Last edited:

Philip Clemmons

Owner, P&P Performance
Location
Richmond, Va
You will likely need to go through your carb settings. Factory uses a stock 701 with their pipe testing. Your signature says you have a ported 727......this is VERY different than what Factory suggests jetting for.

You should consult your engine builder, but likely you will need a bigger n/s (2.0 is a good start), and lighter spring (95g or 80 g), and a larger pilot and main jet.

Your hesitation is likely a result of a lean low speed setting, that is controlled by the pop off setting (combo of n/s and spring), and how it interacts with the low speed jet.

As I said, you may need lower popoff, and more pilot, or a combo of the two. If your engine builder has specs, that's a great place to start.

An Aftermaker flame arrestor will take a lower popoff than the oem one.
 
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