CD155MX
Squirrel!!!
- Location
- Alta Loma, CA
@Sanoman did you have to do anything special to make sure the top carbon layer was perfectly flat so your engine mounts sat down properly?
Motor Mount Insert spacer/filler
- Thread starter Storbeck
- Start date
@Sanoman did you have to do anything special to make sure the top carbon layer was perfectly flat so your engine mounts sat down properly?
Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
If I am not mistaken he got by with "Zero" motor shims.............. I could be wrong............. but knowing Sano...........
@Sanoman thanks that really helps!
Are those pics from this build?
http://www.x-h2o.com/index.php?threads/the-circus.188943/page-2
What are you using for motor mount insert there? It almost looks like just a small bar of aluminum with the threaded holes, then is the rest completely thickened epoxy?
Are those pics from this build?
http://www.x-h2o.com/index.php?threads/the-circus.188943/page-2
What are you using for motor mount insert there? It almost looks like just a small bar of aluminum with the threaded holes, then is the rest completely thickened epoxy?
It was a touch high,so l sanded the blocks down.That worked out well
Aluminum bars in some kind of composite block that Tem originally installed.Never been real excited of Tem using aluminum but that's the way the SF came
Got the old motor mounts just about completely ground out (along with a few other inserts and odball items), any suggestions on how to get that old paint out of there and any other prep I should be doing for laying down a layer or two of glass to reinforce the ground areas then build up the new mounts?
I was considering taking a pressure washer to it (carefully), the paint is just spray paint and it is flaking off. I'd like to avoid sanding/grinding the entire thing. It's not much fun in there!
I was considering taking a pressure washer to it (carefully), the paint is just spray paint and it is flaking off. I'd like to avoid sanding/grinding the entire thing. It's not much fun in there!
The pic where it shows pick certainly shows me its poly. If it is I'd suggest using poly and glass shreds to build up under the aluminum plates to make a nice flat bed for them.
Similar to using cabosil and epoxy just cheaper and a better bond.
Using poly will allow a chemical connection. The styrene can actually break down the base and create a super strong bond once it cures again.
So you do the thickened putty under the aluminum then a few wet layers of glass over all of it.
Similar to using cabosil and epoxy just cheaper and a better bond.
Using poly will allow a chemical connection. The styrene can actually break down the base and create a super strong bond once it cures again.
So you do the thickened putty under the aluminum then a few wet layers of glass over all of it.
- Location
- Illinois
Or does it just cause to surface to become soft and more pourus, creating an enhanced mechanical bond? From my understanding, wet on wet is the only way to get a chemical bond.
Both jeff curry and my comp one rep explained to me with poly you can come back way later and scuff it up and add layers and it will "almost melt" into itself.
I did this myself when I changed out motor mounts on my GTX2, and then again when I hated how far back I had set them, removing my own mounts was the biggest pain the ass. After doing that I was impressed with how strong the bond was, I literally had to cut all the new glass off my aluminum and then grind under the mounts with a cutoff wheel to get almuinum out, then hours of grinding my thickened base. I couldn't pry any of it out. Cut and grind.
Regardless of chemical bond or mechanical with poly on poly, its friggin strong.
I did this myself when I changed out motor mounts on my GTX2, and then again when I hated how far back I had set them, removing my own mounts was the biggest pain the ass. After doing that I was impressed with how strong the bond was, I literally had to cut all the new glass off my aluminum and then grind under the mounts with a cutoff wheel to get almuinum out, then hours of grinding my thickened base. I couldn't pry any of it out. Cut and grind.
Regardless of chemical bond or mechanical with poly on poly, its friggin strong.
Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
You can stick Epoxy to Poly, but not Poly to Epoxy. That said, Using Poly over Poly might be better as mentioned about it chemically fusing.
For what it's worth, one of my four motor mounts I had already done a somewhat quick and dirty repair in hopes of having the ski rideable for the end of last season. That didn't work out and now I ended up grinding it off with all of the rest to (hopefully) redo a little nicer. I used epoxy resin for that and grinding it off the stuff was on there very tenaciously. Definitely no way it would pry off. The rest of the mounts also had an "after the fact" appearance, and there is a noticeable difference between whatever resin was used for them and the original resin from the hull. I don't know if that means they were epoxy, but I suspect it, either way the parts attached to the hull were again on there very tenaciously, unfortunately they were not bonded to the aluminum inserts very well, and the filler under the inserts was some type of foam that was water logged and not bonded to the inserts at all. The whole thing was quite a mess, I think somebody re-glassed over the inserts at least once, maybe more than once, which would explain why the motor alignment was too high. I think by the time I got down to the original hull I'd been through at least three different types of resin.
So end result I'm pretty confident the epoxy will stick to the hull well.
I can tell that I ground too far in places and there are thin spots in the hull, so the plan is to identify thin spots and add local reinforcement, then line the entire bottom under the motor with a layer or maybe two, then build up the individual motor mounts on that, so should be a lot of bonding surface area.
All of the comments and tips are much appreciated. I've never done anything like this before so very much a learning process for me.
So end result I'm pretty confident the epoxy will stick to the hull well.
I can tell that I ground too far in places and there are thin spots in the hull, so the plan is to identify thin spots and add local reinforcement, then line the entire bottom under the motor with a layer or maybe two, then build up the individual motor mounts on that, so should be a lot of bonding surface area.
All of the comments and tips are much appreciated. I've never done anything like this before so very much a learning process for me.
Sounds like you have a good plan of attack.
Epoxy in the marine world, is typically the " go to " for repairs on just about all glass hulls. It bonds very well to most anything when given the proper surface prep.
Just remember air pockets are your enemy here, any time you have them in between the glass layers you have a weak spot. Use the thickened epoxy to make nice "ramps" to the aluminum. It lends itself to easy cloth work.
Epoxy in the marine world, is typically the " go to " for repairs on just about all glass hulls. It bonds very well to most anything when given the proper surface prep.
Just remember air pockets are your enemy here, any time you have them in between the glass layers you have a weak spot. Use the thickened epoxy to make nice "ramps" to the aluminum. It lends itself to easy cloth work.
- Location
- Northern michigan
This pretty much shreds the issues you are having. Takes 10 minutes to read. Always trust west system products and the research they do. https://www.epoxyworks.com/index.php/west-system-epoxy-vs-polyester-for-fiberglass-boat-repair/