MSD enhancer / Adjustable Rev Limiter pros & cons
- Thread starter Dmart29
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Check out @The OCD Garage parts in @JetManiac master thread.OEM modified adjustable rev limiter.Been running one for several years
The rev limiter mod on a stock cdi is a solid option. However, dont expect to see gains from the ignition once you start bolt on engine enhancements. This is where the Enhancer will take you to the next level. The curve that is in the enhancer is a debatable improvement over the stock cdi curve ? The real improvement probably comes more from the increased spark energy, than anything else. This ignition has stood the test of time, as one of the more reliable
Overall. There has also been several other programable ignitions over the years. Those offered great improvement via being able to tune to the engine mods and riders preference. Unfortunately for them, they were proven unreliable in the long run. The new player in the game is the Zealtronics programable cdi. This unit utilizes the 760 flywheel and stator. It can be setup for both Charging and total loss styles. So far it sounds very promising? Time will tell?
Back to your original question, if you plan on going to bolt on, pipe, head ect? My vote would be the enhancer!
Ski ya, Paul
Overall. There has also been several other programable ignitions over the years. Those offered great improvement via being able to tune to the engine mods and riders preference. Unfortunately for them, they were proven unreliable in the long run. The new player in the game is the Zealtronics programable cdi. This unit utilizes the 760 flywheel and stator. It can be setup for both Charging and total loss styles. So far it sounds very promising? Time will tell?
Back to your original question, if you plan on going to bolt on, pipe, head ect? My vote would be the enhancer!
Ski ya, Paul
Thanks for the write up, I actually just bought a modified cdi off a guy from here for a pretty good price so figured I’d give it a shot. I’m running a b pipe R&D head and tornado filters (hope to find more aftermarket parts to add in time). Looking forward to trying out this option for the time being and hope to see some improvement overall!
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- the jetski grave yard
I went from MSD total loss to enhancer with jetenitics flywheel on one of my skis and didn't notice any loss in power. the enhancer took a crap and I put in a modded stock cdi and noticed no difference. motor was ported, head, 44s , b pipe and the rest. nothing is going to make a very noticeable difference. a 701 is always going to have 701 power and nothing more.
adjustability is a joke! it never needs adjusting or gets adjusted
adjustability is a joke! it never needs adjusting or gets adjusted
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My preferred surf setup is a TBM aluminum charging flywheel with the stator advanced 3 deg and a modded stock CDI.
I like the Enhancers too but the cost has risen over the years and the reliability has gone down. The timing is also a bit high on the top end for my taste but the increased spark is a really nice benefit that makes for much easier starts. I still run an MSD in my wife's ski.
I like the Enhancers too but the cost has risen over the years and the reliability has gone down. The timing is also a bit high on the top end for my taste but the increased spark is a really nice benefit that makes for much easier starts. I still run an MSD in my wife's ski.
samsmith87
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Are you still selling modded CDIs?
- Location
- California
You can aso mod the stock ones yourself pretty easily.
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Yes, and you can purchase them through Jetmaniac.
- Location
- California
Question for you OSD.....
On a stock ski or even the basic ADA pump gas head with a B pipe is the rev limit really necessary. I know the stock pipe won't even let the engine rev higher than about 7,000 rpm. This is assuming that you actually know throttle control and don't just hold it wide open when it is in the air or on the trailer.
I am just asking because the easiest stock CDI mod is to just jump the circuit that eliminates the limiter.
On a stock ski or even the basic ADA pump gas head with a B pipe is the rev limit really necessary. I know the stock pipe won't even let the engine rev higher than about 7,000 rpm. This is assuming that you actually know throttle control and don't just hold it wide open when it is in the air or on the trailer.
I am just asking because the easiest stock CDI mod is to just jump the circuit that eliminates the limiter.
Wouldn't the stock cdi with 3 degrees of advance in the stator put you almost exactly the same as an enhancer on the top end based on your own measurements? 62t is 18deg, plus 3 would be 21, vs 22 for the enhancer? With a 61x you'd be way higher than the enhancer.
http://www.x-h2o.com/index.php?threads/msd-enhancer-vs-protec-modded-cdi.183691/page-8
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Yes it would. However, I did specify "surf". If it was a flatwater boat that sees WOT, I would have a different recommendation.
FYI, we usually do 2 deg on the Enhancer as well but we are aware of the risk and ride accordingly. That's why we always cringe when @thrillhill takes our skis for a rip and the first thing he does is a WOT run all the way out to the surf break.
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You would be correct and I can't remember the last time I ever actually hit my rev limiter. Unless the customer requests something specific, I set them all to 8000 RPM.
People like options though so the adjustable is very popular. Just like programmable ignitions that never get programmed more than once.
Alright guys so I’m not familiar with this 2-3 degree advancement with the stator or enhancer can someone fill me in. I like to try to keep up with the lingo haha
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There's a couple really good threads with pics on the subject but here's the basics;
There is an alignment mark on both the Stator and engine cases. If you line them both up, the static timing is said to be at zero. The Stator mounting holes are slotted so it may be indexed in both directions to adjust for variations in the components. The manual instructs you to set it at zero but it also allows you to add timing advance.
2-3 deg is pretty common. Rule of thumb is 1mm off the mark is equal to 1 deg.
There is an alignment mark on both the Stator and engine cases. If you line them both up, the static timing is said to be at zero. The Stator mounting holes are slotted so it may be indexed in both directions to adjust for variations in the components. The manual instructs you to set it at zero but it also allows you to add timing advance.
2-3 deg is pretty common. Rule of thumb is 1mm off the mark is equal to 1 deg.
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Same improvement as programming 2-3 more degrees into a programmable ignition.
Prior to programmable modules, the only way to increase timing in a fixed CDI was to index the stator. However, this raises the entire curve which is where this conversations started.
OEM and Enhancers have fairly high timing in the higher RPM range, (18-19 deg), so if you raise static timing by 3 deg, you end up with 21-22 deg between 5k and 9k RPM which could be catastrophic to many engines and is a huge caution when making this change.
The majority of curves programmed these days will spike up to 28-32 deg between 1500 and 3500 RPM and then start taking it out so it's less than 18deg by 5K and down around 14-15 deg above 7K RPM's.
Prior to programmable modules, the only way to increase timing in a fixed CDI was to index the stator. However, this raises the entire curve which is where this conversations started.
OEM and Enhancers have fairly high timing in the higher RPM range, (18-19 deg), so if you raise static timing by 3 deg, you end up with 21-22 deg between 5k and 9k RPM which could be catastrophic to many engines and is a huge caution when making this change.
The majority of curves programmed these days will spike up to 28-32 deg between 1500 and 3500 RPM and then start taking it out so it's less than 18deg by 5K and down around 14-15 deg above 7K RPM's.