MSD TL and NOCO Lithium battery a bad combo?

catfish4767

catfish4767

Location
Lake Lotawana, MO
I have a NOCO NLP14 paired with a MSD TL and Dasa 850 set up. Was having issues with starter/bendix/flywheel not engaging so replaced bendix and starter; ski fired right up on the stand. Dropped in the lake, ski started and I went for a short ride. Then water patrol posted up behind me (we're not supposed to allow watercraft to leave the water - so no wave jumping...unless they cant see you). I pulled up to shore and just hung out for a bit. Went to start the ski and would barely crank. Bilge worked but then quit after a while. Got the ski home and the battery on the charger. Once fully charged, I dropped it back in the ski and now I am having the same issues as before. Starter spins, bendix engages only sometimes, battery seems weak and not able to crank motor. Noticed my ground wire from starter to battery was very warm the 2nd time around. Battery is brand new. Thoughts? Anyone else running a TL on these NOCO batteries?
 
SteveC

SteveC

Location
West MI
Any chance you can put a volt meter across the battery terminals when it’s acting up? Likewise at the actual starter end of wires? Less than ~12V at starter but not battery means there’s a problem in between. Less than ~12V at the battery could mean huge load (near short condition) is dragging it down, or the battery is damaged. Do you have another NOCO to swap in?
 
Sparkplug

Sparkplug

Location
Red Bluff CA
You can kick the bendix out without the cover on and get a half decent idea of what's going on. It will skip pretty quickly but if there is an issue between any of the parts it will be pretty apparent. I cut a stock flywheel cover in half for this exact reason. All the witchcraftery that I've seen happen inside there I couldn't figure out. It almost sounds like he ring gear is loose on he flywheel and it's spinning. Idk. Bu if you keep doing it. Enough marks and metal should show up, or a hole in something. Open the flywheel cover and post pictures of the stator and flywheel
 
catfish4767

catfish4767

Location
Lake Lotawana, MO
SteveC said:
Is this actually lubricated normally? It looks quite clean in the photo, which might be just cuz you cleaned it to check it. No insult intended, just clarifying.
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Ski is new to me, less than 30 min of tray time. Some oil residue in the bottom of the cover when I pulled it off and wiped it up. Other than that, thats how it looked when I pulled it off.
 
Quinc

Quinc

Buy a Superjet
Location
California
Ones I have pulled apart have grease all over the spring in the cover and in the brass bushing by the starter. I keep mine lubed. Not sure that's your issue though.
 
SteveC

SteveC

Location
West MI
Quinc said:
Ones I have pulled apart have grease all over the spring in the cover and in the brass bushing by the starter. I keep mine lubed. Not sure that's your issue though.
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I’m not sure it’s _the_ problem, but high static friction giving way to lower dynamic friction, and a high constant load due to said friction does fit the symptoms. I’d generously grease both bronze bushings (case side, cover side), and try again. Thumbs up for the JM cover making that a pretty trivial thing to do. Worst case you get a proper lube of those parts out of the test.
 
DylanS

DylanS

Gorilla Smasher
Location
Lebanon Pa
Sounds like the bendix teeth grinding against the backside of the ring gear. Then when you let off and retry it engages. Like mentioned above brass engine side bushing could be smoked. Inspect your starter side of the bendix for wear marks on the teeth. For what it’s worth my NLP9 and 14 both blew at cranking my 1200 over. But they would never have the issue above, just slow cranking. Also my TL system would consistently drain my batteries even with the switched remote wire in the off position. Had to switch the actual 12v wire to get it to stop or my batteries would be half dead in no time.
 
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