My First Ski $400 750SX 94 vintage

[ridethelip]

Thank you for making me laugh with the guy who designed should be shot comment.West systems or u.s. composites epoxy will stick to smc.May I suggest you give that handle pole a viking burial.You got other area's you could spend your time on.If you want to try and save it you are going to need to find center on the pivot bolt and mark it on the handle pole and completely glass up the broken area and pivot bolt holes and then redrill them.Get an aluminum handle pole or another stock handle pole so can ride,ride,ride.That's a nice ski for the money.

 

[wright2383]

only use epoxy resin when working on your ski. lowes, home depot, walmart....ect, all sells polyester resin, and thats not what you want to use. order some thin epoxy resin from us composites, some glass, and a thickener (cabosil) thicken up the resin on places you want to use the resin as a sealant, or like a putty, otherwise use thin epoxy resin and glass and go to town. also just keep cranking your ski and the air bubbles will dissapear. if they dont, check your pulse line from carb to case for holes, damage, ect. and if it looks ok then your fuel pump isnt doing its job, and rebuild the carb.

 

[eeerieski]

I'm torn between spending $250-300 on an aluminum pole and fixing my existing pole now, I could put that good money towards a new pipe.... then again I am a big guy and will be torquing that pole like it's never been torqued before and those cables are a pain to snake through the stock pole.

As for the gas issue, I never did crank it continuously for fear of frying the starter motor. Everything works as of right now engine wise so i'll just try to never run out of gas then....

 

[wright2383]

i wouldnt worry about frying the starter motor, but i wouldnt crank it for more than 10-20 seconds at a time. if you do burn it up they can be had new for around 70-80$ on fleabay.

 

[superjetkev]

ditch the stock pole man! i owned 2 sx's, both poles broke. my buddy has gone thru 2 sx poles. he bougth an ac racing alum pole and its been rock solid ever since. def worth it on an sx. good find for 400 bucks man!

 

[wright2383]

^^ agreed. i sold my buddy my 750sx, but it still lives in the bed of my truck. we went out riding last saturday, and he destroyed the pole when the handle bar bracket meets the glass. bought a used AC aluminum pole off a fellow X member for 270$ shipped, in decent shape. keep an eye out for sxi part outs, i think they may have come with that AC pole from the factory, but i could be wrong.

 

[eeerieski]

I bought an AC Aluminum pole from penny1l for $300 shipped, I guess that is in the ballpark.
So the current mods for my ski will be:
Ride plate (unknown)
SS Impeller (unknown)
Oil injection block off
Crank case drain block off
AC Aluminum Pole

New Future Mods No Order, mostly dreams for now:
Bilge Pump (Dual? :Banane25
Finger Throttle
-2" mount + straight bars
Dual intake/carbs/flame arrestors (what fits?)
Finger Throttle
De-Purple
sand, bondo and paint
turf: tray, rails, chinpad
45deg pisser
SS bow eyes
repair poorly repaired gouge
pipe

 

[wright2383]

i had dual bilges in the 750. ran 2 attwood 500's that i glued to the hull with 3m 5200. can be bought at walmart for like 15$ a piece. you can get a thru hull fitting on fleabay for about 10$ and run 3/4 inch ID hose. one bilge was mounted under the drive shaft, and one in front of the flywheel cover. also installed a jabsco back flow preventer to keep outside water from running back down the bilge hose.

i would install a bilge setup asap, because it can save you from sinking your ski if you lose your hood, or anything else crazy happens.

 

[eeerieski]

Also found out I have a bent turnplate!

 

[wright2383]

i bought a JRE (jet race engineering) plate off ebay for like 30$.... works well, and is dirt cheap.

 

[eeerieski]

stickers suck monkey nuts

Vise and pipe wrench took care of that... I've started working on stripping the stickers, man it blows. Adhesive remover + 80grit + 1/4 sheet sander and it still took me an hour and a full sheet of sandpaper for the large side stickers. the 80grit clogs up with the sticky stuff and acts as a large eraser by rubbing the sticky against it'sself. If you go this route you will probably need a paint job. Since my finish before destickering was pretty crappy I didn't care about removing paint (not gelcoat, remeber this is SMC) and it will be getting a rustoleum rollerjob sometime in the next few months.

 

[Cannibal]

You need a decal remover. It's like a big rubber eraser wheel that you put in your drill. Can be had for $15 at most auto stores that have an auto-body area or dedicated auto-body stores.

 

[eeerieski]

too late now, I got most of them off

pics of that bent turnplate as found:

 

[eeerieski]

I never imagined how sore and dead tired I would be after riding aside from the sunburn (my error) I got a rash on my underarms from rubbing my vest and my knees were tore up.

Aside from practice practice practice what tips can anyone give me to getting up with the least amount of effort and highest success rate? I'm 270 and not fat, semi-athletic and do this: elbows on rails, get moving for some stability, simultaneously apply more throttle and ram one knee all the way forward, throw my weight as far forward as I think I can and let it get on plane then stand up.

It just seems like it takes forever to get up and this process wears me out faster than the actual riding, of course it would help if opposing forces don't combine at once and make me fall over sideways for seemingly no reason.

 

[Shifty]

I would say your technique will work fine. I think with time it will become fluid and quick. Developing strenght where you need it will also speed up the transition and cut back on soreness.

 

[Cannibal]

It takes more effort to get your knee up while dragging yourself. Try sticking your knee in the back of the tray and nailing the throttle at the moment your knee hits. Soon as it gets stable, get the other knee in and in a second you should be planing enough to stand up. The whole process should take like 5 seconds and about 20 feet.

 

[SNOWMAN]

cool. you got it runnin. i love my 750 sx. another way to "start" from a shallow start....just jump into the tray with your knees. once in the tray learn to balance while idling, or just sitting there. at first, so you dont topple over, make one fliud movement to jump into the ski, knees into tray and ..braaaappp. no dragging yourself up. this is how i teach people to start from shallow water.

 

[wright2383]

to start push back of ski under, put one knee in tray, hit starter and gas on it. no dragging/pulling required. to fix arm rash from lifejacket, go buy a kayaking/paddling vest. they have all the flotation around your waist area, and almost nothing up top, allowing a free range of movement. they look a little odd, but work extremely well

 

[eeerieski]

Thanks for the tips guys, At this point if I attempt to get knees in/punch it at the same time the nose just goes ski high. I blame this on my weight but will continue to try and get my weight farther forward with those muscles i'm developing. Losing 40 pounds wouldn't be a bad idea either... If I am still having troubles at the end of the season then an extended rideplate may be required to compensate. Any tips for the random unstoppable falling over, it seems like I did it about 20 times this past weekend.

With the intake grate and SS impeller I have ZERO hookup issues unless the pump goes out of the water.

I am also able to turn relatively sharply which apparently is a problem with may other riders. Maybe it is my great balance from being a snow skiing instructor for the past 4 winters at the local resort.

 

[mightymighty2stroke]

Cool pics - congrats on your find!! Feels good to finally get it on the lake I bet. I had to battle with my 'new to me' ski for 2 weeks before it was water-ready.