- Location
- Bay Area, CA
I had a few days off and was able to wrap some things up while hiding from the nasty weather.
After looking at LOTS of pictures and consulting with @Quinc , I realized that I had my ebox wiring mixed up and had the starter/battery cables reversed. I went to add power for my bilge pumps and realized that the small red wire with bullet connector was coming from what i originally thought was the starter side... the box is from a raider, and apparently they are run upside down compared to a SJ... I originally had the battery/starter wires coming out of the bottom of the ebox... I swapped in the correct length battery cables so that I could run the ebox in the standard SJ orientation which actually works out better because it's much cleaner with all the wiring tucked along the right side of the ski and directly into the ebox instead of having to pass behind the rear of the engine above the coupler cover...
I will have to post a pic of the cleaned up ebox with bilge wiring added as I would love some input on how I did... I ordered some Recon marine fuse holders and as soon as they arrived I realized they would only fit inside the ebox and would not be removable through the cap like the oem fuse... I then started pondering if it would even be possible to fit a second oem style fuse and still be able to remove both.... I messed up and ordered a "next-day" marine inline fuse shipped to my work instead of my home and since my office is closed on saturdays, it got bumped out till after the new year. I had everything buttoned up except fusing the positive wire, so I decided to just use the original Recon fuse holder and I poked two holes in the temp-sensor grommet that I re-used for the bilge switch wires (using the oem temp-sensor wires as well). The fuse is accessible without having to open the ebox. With the OCD bilge kit is one able to fit/remove two barrel fuses? i may go that route if I build a msd box in the future...
Anyway, here is some current pix of the engine bay... I'm bummed that my epoxy bilge paint changed colors in the can so the scratches i touched up are now beige lol... it isn't visible when the tank is installed though, so only WE know about it
Do people run worm gear clamps on their bilge hoses, or are zip ties adequate?
Pump area is complete - steering grommet nut tightened, trim seal zip-tied, dual cooling lines installed and clamped, errything 242'd.... I ended up just painting the ride plate white - I'll spend the time to powdercoat it if it's the plate I end up running.
All I need now is my replacement header to show up, and then i can install it, the chamber, the waterlines, the tank+batt, and then first fire up!
After looking at LOTS of pictures and consulting with @Quinc , I realized that I had my ebox wiring mixed up and had the starter/battery cables reversed. I went to add power for my bilge pumps and realized that the small red wire with bullet connector was coming from what i originally thought was the starter side... the box is from a raider, and apparently they are run upside down compared to a SJ... I originally had the battery/starter wires coming out of the bottom of the ebox... I swapped in the correct length battery cables so that I could run the ebox in the standard SJ orientation which actually works out better because it's much cleaner with all the wiring tucked along the right side of the ski and directly into the ebox instead of having to pass behind the rear of the engine above the coupler cover...
I will have to post a pic of the cleaned up ebox with bilge wiring added as I would love some input on how I did... I ordered some Recon marine fuse holders and as soon as they arrived I realized they would only fit inside the ebox and would not be removable through the cap like the oem fuse... I then started pondering if it would even be possible to fit a second oem style fuse and still be able to remove both.... I messed up and ordered a "next-day" marine inline fuse shipped to my work instead of my home and since my office is closed on saturdays, it got bumped out till after the new year. I had everything buttoned up except fusing the positive wire, so I decided to just use the original Recon fuse holder and I poked two holes in the temp-sensor grommet that I re-used for the bilge switch wires (using the oem temp-sensor wires as well). The fuse is accessible without having to open the ebox. With the OCD bilge kit is one able to fit/remove two barrel fuses? i may go that route if I build a msd box in the future...
Anyway, here is some current pix of the engine bay... I'm bummed that my epoxy bilge paint changed colors in the can so the scratches i touched up are now beige lol... it isn't visible when the tank is installed though, so only WE know about it
Do people run worm gear clamps on their bilge hoses, or are zip ties adequate?
Pump area is complete - steering grommet nut tightened, trim seal zip-tied, dual cooling lines installed and clamped, errything 242'd.... I ended up just painting the ride plate white - I'll spend the time to powdercoat it if it's the plate I end up running.
All I need now is my replacement header to show up, and then i can install it, the chamber, the waterlines, the tank+batt, and then first fire up!
