My interpretation of X Metal trim flow guard

Wonder if you could cut and heli-arc the actuating arm on one of the Yamaha oem trim rings with the rubber side flaps to work with the XMetal bracket/cable location? That could be another long term "fix".
Anything is possible, just depends how much work and time you want to invest. The stock ring with the rubber may be the most efficient design. I haven't had one to play with though.
 

NVJAY775

My home away from home.
@speedysprocket I'm curious how your modded setup compares to the b pipe coupler set up. I like the fact that yours is all solid and can't blow off.

I can tell you that the difference between stock xmetal trim and xmetal metal trim with b pipe coupler is absolutely night and day. You get better thrust with flips and spins. Once you try it, you'll never want to ride without it.
 

NVJAY775

My home away from home.
Jetmaniac might have one laying around. I'd like to get one in my hands to see what can be done. Flip it and modify it to work for up instead of down.

I liked shortening my steering throw too. Just made riding an overall better experience. Less sensitive when cruising and messing around, but when you want to spin, it definitely spins.
 
This was my first trim ring...
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NVJAY775

My home away from home.
The difference is huge like said. Jetmaniac has run this setup for a very long time with no issues. As have others. The only reason I had issues was due to my steering nozzles shape and volume, and my cuts were off for my nozzle.

All I have to say is just try it. It's a super cheap mod. It tightens up all the tolerances between the reduction nozzle and steering nozzle for more thrust in all directions and still allows great flow without disrupting the flow path too bad.

I think this can only be done with a flexible coupler, or OEM type of set up. I did a LOT of glasswork to mine last season (a few times) and it did make a difference. But nothing compared to the coupler set up.

And that's all I have to say about that lol...
 
The coupler mod really tightens up the reverse flow alot even with the tabs cut off,as mine wore down and started to blow through,I cut them off and tested with and without,unreal diff,I glassed the reduction nozzle tight to the upward trim direction as well,sim to the rrp carbon flow guard. Anyone who ever watched the full vid of how hiro glasses the unit to the reduction nozzle to completely elim reverse flow under the ride plate would understand.

also the fx 140 turn nozzle works great if you grind the edges out a lil thiner and then finish sand them with 1000 grit where they touch the coupler taps,this works on the plastic nozzle as well,requires less vasoline lube to keep them in good shape. moding a 61x reduction nozzle and drilling the trim holes back a smidge makes for a much tighter setup with just a tad less trim angle.
 
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