Super Jet Need advice on plug readings

Roseand

The Weaponizer
Site Supporter
Location
Wisconsin
Running a 61x 701 with a b pipe and their jetting specs. First plug check pic: a medium length high speed run and then a couple seconds of full throttle here and there, then pegging it for about five seconds and then about 10 seconds of wot straight towards my dock and immediately shut it off and coast/swim in. Running 93 Oct pump gas.
9apy9ebu.jpg

Second plug reading, high speed run for quite a while across the lake with only bursts of WOT every once and a while for a few seconds. Then I pegged it for about ten seconds, off, then a few more seconds WOT, and then I decided to be a little risky and go WOT for about 30 seconds or whatever felt like a long time and then shut ski off and coasted my way in and swam the rest. Only thing I did differently on this plug trial is turn in my low speed in a quarter turn, and I've been running 4 gallons of premium to 1 gallon of 110 Oct race gas to avoid demo. Since, it looks like the plugs are more gray but still brown.
sugy9egu.jpg

Thoughts?
 

Roseand

The Weaponizer
Site Supporter
Location
Wisconsin
The last pic might be a little deceiving cuz it was taken in the dark with flash, so there's a little bit of a glare.
 
Me, personally, would shoot for a chocolate brown plug color. It's what I do for my other two strokes, but I'm finding out some if these engines like a rich mix with a pipe... IMO I'd say your right on the edge. Unless those plugs are brand new and might color a little darker yet
 

Mike W

Infidel
Location
North Florida
If you can, look at the top of the pistons. I happen to have a fiber optic light but a small pin light should work. Look at the piston wash. That should give you a good idea if your lean or rich.
 

tor*p*do

Squarenose FTW
Site Supporter
Location
NW NC
get a bore light from your local gun shop and look at the top of the pistons through the plug holes
much more meaningful than looking at plugs
 

Roseand

The Weaponizer
Site Supporter
Location
Wisconsin
I gotta replace my water jacket o ring soon anyways so I'll check it soon. But it looks like the color changed ever since I turned the low speed in a quarter turn from 2.5 to 2.25 and start running 4 gals of premium to 1 gallon of race gas. Before my plugs looked pretty good and they still are brown. I don't really do extended WOT so it's not as crucial. It lasted 30 seconds WOT so it must be somewhat right lol. Max WOT now would probably be about 3-5 seconds
 

tor*p*do

Squarenose FTW
Site Supporter
Location
NW NC
not a bore scope, a bore light
I use this one on a mini Maglite
I am nearsighted, so it works great for me

maglite.jpg
 

Roseand

The Weaponizer
Site Supporter
Location
Wisconsin
Zero dead spots. It rips super hard for a 701 in a square! It rips pretty much perfect. I don't remember but I'll check soon.
Haha that's from my hand hitting my head pipe with those t handles when loosening up the plugs! Haha.
 
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no need for the 110 mix.. 93 should be fine.. hell a friend with a stock 62t setup with a bpipe runs 87 and it runs fine no deto.. to accurately check your plugs you really need a 10x magnifiying glass and lots of light to see whats really going on.. if something isnt right, it will really stick out then.. this chart tells you how to properly read your plugs.. my machiniist newmiller machine sent me this chart and told me about needing the magnifying glass at least 10x.. if you have advanced your timing which if youre running 93 octane you will want advance your ignition timing a few degrees to take advantage of the higher octane because it burns slower, the advanced timing gets the flame front burning quicker... with the mag, you can easily see the soot buildup on the center electrode to determine if your ignition timing is accurate..
 

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Roseand

The Weaponizer
Site Supporter
Location
Wisconsin
no need for the 110 mix.. 93 should be fine.. hell a friend with a stock 62t setup with a bpipe runs 87 and it runs fine no deto.. to accurately check your plugs you really need a 10x magnifiying glass and lots of light to see whats really going on.. if something isnt right, it will really stick out then.. this chart tells you how to properly read your plugs.. my machiniist newmiller machine sent me this chart and told me about needing the magnifying glass at least 10x.. if you have advanced your timing which if youre running 93 octane you will want advance your ignition timing a few degrees to take advantage of the higher octane because it burns slower, the advanced timing gets the flame front burning quicker... with the mag, you can easily see the soot buildup on the center electrode to determine if your ignition timing is accurate..
Zack at powerhouse performance told me mixing 110 is cheap insurance if I'm running my 35cc/180 psi setup chasing boat wakes and occasional WOT bursts.. It may not be necessary but it gets rid of the chance of deto from a low quality batch of pump gas.
 

chadman154

#Itsonlymoney !!!!!
Location
Dirty south
I run 91 ( no ethanol 4galls to 1 gall vp 113 ) in all the stock to mod skis. You never know when you got some poop fuel, and the stock sn gets run at WOT for laps around the lake, along with the mod super chicken. I like to beat the h@ll outta my toys....
 

High Speed Industries

Your one stop shop for quality parts @highspeedind
I like to roll the dice and take chances. I run straight 91 with walmart oil and 185 psi in a race application. It's lasted 88 hours so far. lol

Your plugs don't look that bad. It's not like it's super rich or super lean. I'd probably run it as is. If you can find a local that knows how to tune that would be best. For accurate high speed tuning you need to do a handful of full throttle runs. If you engine is in the lower rpms it will throw the reading off.

My advice may be useful, but I don't consider myself an expert. I'd contact your engine builder for some solid advice. It sounds like you have it running pretty good as it, no dead spots and good power are always a plus.
 

Roseand

The Weaponizer
Site Supporter
Location
Wisconsin
Yeah I think I'll leave it probably :p
those plug readings were after WOT runs. But I don't do long WOT anyways. Awesome advice! Sometimes it has a little lag after being at low rpms and waiting for boat wakes too long but after clearing it out it rips hard even off of idle with zero lag with a killer mid range powerband :)
jy7u6ype.jpg
I'd say it rips lol.
My pipe, cooling setup, fcv and everything is pretty much from zacks recommendations. I'm not aiming for perfection so it runs good enough for me. I'll post some pics when I pull the head tho.
 

High Speed Industries

Your one stop shop for quality parts @highspeedind
If it loads up at idle waiting for a boat I would say your low speed adjuster needs some attention. Read that article and it will help you.
Just use a flashlight and take a look at your piston through the spark plug hole. If the piston is at he bottom of the stroke you should be able to see well enough to get an idea. Piston wash may not be accurate for your application. If you are generally at lower rpm it might make the ski look rich because the carbon isn't sticking to the piston.
This piston chart might help you.

upuve3um.jpg
 

Roseand

The Weaponizer
Site Supporter
Location
Wisconsin
It doesn't load up all the time though. Maybe every once in a while, like once an hour. Doesn't happen every time I sit. When it happens though, it'll take off but won't be snappy until about a little after half throttle and on plane and then the mid range powerband kicks in and it's snappy again from idle too. Similar feeling to getting your pump loaded up with weeds. Maybe it's a little water getting into my carbs since my bilge pumps are sitting sideways due to the bases coming unglued. It did get a little better after turning in the low speed a quarter turn. But I haven't really worried about it since it runs perfect like 95% of the time.
 
Nice nose stab dude :) You gotta meet up with a crew that rides lake michigan nearest to you!
 
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