Need Cooling Confirmation....

[TLR67]

Ok I know I am pretty damned cool but I keep blowing Couplers on my Type 4 Dry Pipe.... I dont have dual cooling now but am going to tap into my Pump this weekend and ponied up for a new Coupler and a Bildge with switch... Before I go drilling in the Pump I would love to have a couple things confirmed... My Ski is bored .5 over and I capped the little fitting on the front of the Stock Head when I put the Dry pipe on. If I keep the stock head and run a second cooling line from my Bildge inlet to my Factory Manifold ( Which already has a second capped inlet on it) Do I just run the second pisser from that spot on the STOCK head? See my Diagram... I know Im no Picaso but I have the below planned to route just want to confirm all will be good...

Regular Inlet to Bottom of Mani
Bildge to Top of Mani
Head to Lower Pipe
Small fitting on Head to second Pisser

Any help would be appreciatted.... Thanks All!!!

 

[TLR67]

Oh and Sorry its a 95 FX-1 with a 96 62T with Stock 38''s I know I could throw on a aftermarket Head and 44's but its totally not in the budget at this time....

 

[TLR67]

You can see the small Black Cap on the stock head on the right to the right of that plug... Should I tap in a bigger 90 Outlet?

 

[Harbor]

That cooling set up looks like it will work. I'd prolly want both head outlets the same size though..... My type 4 kept blowing couplers too, I didn't have an oring on it and never got it flush tightly to manifold. Didn't know either at the time. I ended up using a more thicker rubber coupler off a boats exhaust. It was a Sryder boat with inboard ford 302, I cut a piece of its coupler out and never had another issue

 

[TLR67]

I tried some boat exhaust even with high temp Rtv coated on the inside.. It lasted 1 day. I think it's just lack of water... ( I hope)

 

[Harbor]

I did have dual cooling though. One fed the lower pipe and one to manifold.... Years later I unplugged the spray bar and started injecting water again, continues like they do the power factor pipe. It had a soliniod on it for msd injection but it had broken years earlier.

Are you using the oring and getting the pipe to manifold real tight and square so flames can't burn the couplers so easily

 

[Big Kahuna]

Be sure your coupler is cut just a tad short. This way you know that the pipe and manifold is getting mated together. Be sure the the bolts that go through the brackets I to the Lord mounts line up without having g to push the mounts over. If so grind out the holes so there is no pulling by the mounts.

 

[TLR67]

Not using a ORing... Does the Factory 4 use one? As far as the Lord Mounts they line up fine once the pipe is in... I will make sure this new gasket is not too long... Thanks..

 

[Big Kahuna]

Yes. That why your blowing coupler. I have heard of people using RTV and building it up like an oring and letting it harden up before installing the pipe.

 

[TLR67]

Thanks for that Info Man.... Beers on me at the Fried Free Ride this Year..... I went ahead and ordered a Kit from Blowsion... Does my Water routing look OK to you for that Pipe? Can I tap out a larger fitting in that Stock head up in the front?

 

[Big Kahuna]

When I ran a Speedwerx Pipe, I think I ran split cooling. One line to the motor, and a separate line to the pipe. What you have will work fine.

 

[Big Kahuna]

Also, You can go to a Hydrolic hose supply house and pick up the Orings. Believe it is a Buna N

 

[jules210]

Can any tell meh where to put the dual cooling tube that goes through the tray. I'm planing on keeping stock bilge and running a 1/2 trim tube in the upper left hand corner is that right as well?

 

[TLR67]

Well this seemed to do the trick.... Rode all day yesterday with no Blown Coupler... I do have a fitting/restrictor (Looks like metal) in the stinger end of this pipe but noticed the pissers were very very hot... Like I could feel the heat from them when riding.. Do I need to put on a flow control valve from the Head Exit? Seems like the water is leaving the engine real fast now...Which is expected.. Also would a restrictor be needed for the stinger hose before this fitting that is in there? It did seem like it was loading up with alot of water before launch... Also... The Watcon (Heavy Duty) Bilge switches... Are not so Heavy duty...The Knob on mine broke off on the first run....Need to modify it and find a solution...

 

[TLR67]

(Jules) What type of ski? I would say the same side as the stock bilge... Even removing that hose it was a very tight fit... If your looking at the rear of the ski its the right of the pump... This is a FX-1 Though...

 

[Big Kahuna]

You need to run the line on the left side of the pump. Up high is clear. Go to lowes and in the electrical section they sell drill bits that are on a 5' shaft. Then just AIM it where you want it to go.