Need help 89 650sx wont stay running

So the story goes, i bought it last year painted it and swapped out a couple of things. Got rid of the 28mm carb and went with a 38mm kehin. Swapped pipes to a westcoast, and ride plate. I checked compression twice once when i bought it and the second recently. Both times and both cylinders are around 170. Problem is i can only get it started with primer shot, otherwise no good. Wont even run past a couple of seconds. tried a couple different carbs to insure that it wasnt the carbs. ive replaced all lines, checked the pick up, new cdi etc. i have run out of ideas and im beginning to become frustrated with it. Oh yes the reeds are new. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. By the way it is kawasaki 89 650sx.
 
Location
Indiana
Starts and runs on the prime. Keep looking into your carbs/ fuel system for the problem. Prime the carb by blowing through the return line to make sure fuel is getting to the carb.
 
I can see the fuel running to the carb, I have tried a few different carbs, as well tested the carbs on other motors to insure they work. I can pull the line and fuel comes right out.
 
It sounds like the carb is the issue. Do you still have the other 28mm carb to put back on it? It might need a re-build on the carb. I remember a while back the external fuel pump on my 650 had to be re-build. Check any fuel filter that you have, check the tank breather to make sure the tank is breathing, try putting it on reserve and running it if you still have the selector to make sure it has good pick up. Did water by chance get into the gas tank cause that would make it hard to run. What do the plugs look like? Are the waterlines ok, overheating will make it shut down too.
 
I tried the other 3 carbs on my other ski, they run fine. I tried on reserve, even ran the line directly from the tank to the carb. Checked the pick up tubes. Water wasn't in the tank prior to putting fresh fuel in it. And it hasn't touched the water since last season, also no overheating, won't run long enough to overheat.
 
Did you check the pulse hose for a loose fit on the carb and base? Sounds like it's not getting a strong enough pulse, also take the hose off and just slip a little screw driver in there to make sure it is not plugged up at all. Also, you should really consider looking into upgrading from the 38mm Keihin to a Mikuni SBN44 and carb adapter. Those Westcoast pipes are quite a bit larger on the I.D. compared to the stock chamber and I found the 38 Keihin was not enough carb to satisfy the airflow demands of any modded or AM pipe. Another area that is known to be problematic on the 650sx engine over time is the case drain plug. It's on the bottom of the exhaust side of the cases and has that little pull plunger mounted on top of the exhaust manifold. If they start to leak then you won't get much pulse signal if any at all as all the signal will be going through the case drains. There is a very effective and affordable fix for those drains, don't use a block-off plate, they leak fairly soon after the first season or two. Just coat a pair of stainless bolts (1/2-13 if I remember correctly) with JB cold weld and thread them in. Don't tap the holes, they are just the right size that the bolts will do it with no troubles. If you tap the holes, the chips from the tapping will get sent into the base where they will make bad things happen. Just driving the bolts in by the ratchet works the same as a roll tap, it forms the threads in accordance to the constant spiral of the pitch. Regular taps are fluted where the chips buildup and break off rather then mold with the pitch.

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Also wanted to add that the crank seals should be replaced if they have never been done that you know of. Most people don't change them since those engines are quite bullet proof and rarely need any large scale maintenance. Crank seals that are 25 years old have served their purpose and are most likely soft opening up air gaps between the seal and crank. If you block the exhaust manifold with a good sealed and bolted on plate, then pressurize the cases through the pulse fitting, they should hold about 15psi if the seals are good. If not, no amount of carb work and swapping out will get that engine running or running well...if air is entering the system from anywhere below the bottom flange of the carb (intake gasket leaks, base gasket leaks, crank seal leaks) the engine will be a carburetion nightmare.
 
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Hey man, thanks for the great info! I'll look into that, I didn't even consider that route. I'll look into it soon as I get home from the river. I took the x2 out for the weekend instead. But when I get back I'll look into that; again great info and advice!
 
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