Need some advice, cutting SN tray out...

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Prairidawg

Location
SK
Hey, just looking for some advice, I've read a lot about cutting trays out on here and still have a question. I plan to defoam/refoam this old hull, I cut holes to install the footholds first, just to see what it's like. The gunwhale foam seems to be pretty dry, except for the very bottom near the exhaust pipe. The foam in the bottom that I can get to is definitely wet on top, stuck a chisel in it to see if it was wet all the way through, and honestly it doesn't seem like it is. Either way I plan on doing it somewhat right and will take all the old stuff out and re do it. My question now though is should I complete the foothold install now, then start cutting open the tray? And if so where should I cut, is there any better places to cut to maintain some strength? Or will the new fiberglass that patches it back together be just as strong? I just put the tape on for the picture, was thinking about cutting on the inside of the tape. Thanks!
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fastgtfairlane

fastgtfairlane

Location
Charlotte, NC
If it were me, I'd go ahead and widen the tray while you're at it. Leave the holds out until you're ready to put everything back together then you can rivet them in before you glass everything back together
 
kevbo

kevbo

Location
dfw
The tray is connected to the top deck only and doesnt actually touch the bottom except at the rear. Your foam may not be very wet, bore some holes to the bottom and see. If you plan on making a new tray, cut the gunwale near the floor. If you want to save the floor then cut the floor and leave about an inch all the way around in place. Either way you will need to do a lot of foaming and sanding so it goes back together directly on the foam. This will shift the riders weight to the bottom deck where it belongs. Be careful not to cut into the bottom deck at the rear. There should be pictures of removed decks floating around here.
 
brapperdoodle

brapperdoodle

Location
Asheville, NC
I would also move that front line back just a bit. The bulkhead sits a bit behind the front of the tray and its a bit thicker than you might think. I almost nipped my bulkhead on the FX-1. Like kevbo said, be careful not to cut through the bottom deck when cutting that rear line! The foam is either wet, or its not... If you want to do it 100% I would remove the foam and re-seal all the fittings/exhaust and bulkhead. Plus if you're doing the work, now is the time to trim some inches off the rear of the ski! I built up a really nice SN and regret not shortening it. I would also wait to install the footholds, you want to make sure they will be in the correct place if you redo the entire tray.
 
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Prairidawg

Location
SK
The hull must have had some strap style footholds, which leads me to think that the foam is wet, there were holes and insrts, plus a mystery hole on the left side of the tray about half way up. If you widen it will the footholds still fit without touching the outside of the hull? And how much do you widen it, an inch per side? Thanks for the info guys!

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kevbo

kevbo

Location
dfw
Footholds will keep you from sliding forward during nose stabs and do a good job of holding your feet during rolls. The rest of the time they are usually too far back and make you ride bent over a lot. I removed the exhaust tube and made slots all the way to the front. While not for everyone, they do hold you in the tray and are very comfortable over a large range of conditions. The tube can be either lowered or removed and a side dump installed in front of the bulkhead.
 
smoofers

smoofers

Rockin' the SQUARE!!!!
Site Supporter
Location
Granbury, TX
When I started defoaming my SN, the majority of my foam was bone dry... until I got to about the level of the driveshaft tube. Turns out both of my intake grate front inserts were leaky and the foam all around that area was soaking wet. Also, any tray floor I've ever witnessed removed from the ski has had a huge crack in some location. I'd recommend replacing with epoxy and 1708. Your floor will be lighter and stronger than the Metton you cut out.

As for a pic of the tray removed, see below:
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mthomps

mthomps

Location
Cleveland
If you cut the tray off and refoam you are gonna put in about 60 hours of work in to save 30 pounds on your ski.

If you take away material and widen the tray when you do it, now the ski doesn't float anymore with the back end bobbing at the waterline if you sink it. Less foam, less buoyancy.

I am just saying it's a big task to take on and the work is more than the benefits. I myself decided, after putting in foothold I don't use because I like surf stance, that I'm a member of the "heavy ass pig 300+ pound superjet club" lol

If you're a stocky boy like me, it's easier to lose 30 pounds on your body instead of your sn
 
kevbo

kevbo

Location
dfw
I weighed a couple of SN ready to ride, one was 330 and the other was 340 but it had a heavy Protec pipe and an old aluminum pole.
 
fastgtfairlane

fastgtfairlane

Location
Charlotte, NC
30 lbs on a 300+ lb ski is 10% that's a lot and will affect the ride of the ski and it is definitely A LOT of work. I personally wouldn't want to put that much work into a square nose. And people told me the same thing when I started cutting up my old 550 Haha. However I did learn to glass on that ski and would rather have learned on a at the time super cheap ski, like a 550 in case I butchered it beyond repair
 
kevbo

kevbo

Location
dfw
I agree a SN top deck is garbage. Poor material and not enough room in the front. It’s interesting to watch how people’s assessment can vary so much on things that are so similar.
 
cpenn

cpenn

Location
Minnesota
I’m just finishing refoaming my ‘92. I would be floored if it’s 30 lbs lighter than it was. Maybe 5-10lbs, definitely not 30. Granted my tray was in good condition. Have about ten hours into the project, so definitely think twice before taking it on, especially if your tray is in good shape.
 
CJSHAW636

CJSHAW636

Location
Green Bay, Wi
Are there any good ways to do a less intrusive inspection to check if your foam is waterlogged? I’m afraid to put my nice new tray mats on my 96 rebuild because the hull had some tray cracks in it when I first bought it.. everything will be well sealed on this rebuild for future leaks but don’t know if there is still excess weight in the tray. Also, if the ski was sitting for years, is there a good chance anything waterlogged has evaporated and escaped as long as it is sealed up this time around? Ski has not been in the water for atleast 4 years
 
CJSHAW636

CJSHAW636

Location
Green Bay, Wi
JC-SuperJet said:
No Dice Chino.

No way for that Enclosed Foam to dry out.

Defoaming the SuperJet is a Rite of Passage and is unavoidable.

You might can drill out a Core from the Portside Transom Bottom, but then you'll need to do Fiberglass Work to patch the Hole.

Perhaps a less intrusive way is to drill a small Weep Hole in the same area and tip the Ski so that Water drains towards the Transom. After a couple of days you can check and see if it's weeping. You can plug the Hole with a Screw + Silicone or Marine Putty. Thanks to Bionic from Pwctoday for that Tip.

If you have a Scale, you could weigh the SuperJet and compare to the Spec Dry Weight plus Fuel.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I think I’m going to just complete the build minus the tray mats and weigh it compared to my 2015, if it’s within 10 lbs just gonna send it!
 
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