Octane need some serious help with my 03 octane

VXSXH20

Sionis Industries
Location
Mid-Atlantic
The CDIs on the Octanes do have issues with them. I have an 02 octane and mine fried. It fried on the previous owner I am told as well.. If the prop is stock then I would not suspect the boat to be over propped. The Jetting in the Carbs is the factory polaris setup. There are updated kits you can by to increase your throttle response on the low and over all top end. it takes a little finesse and tuning. The Plugs that should be run in the stock motor are NGK BR9ES. I have not tried any other plug in my ski. Since you are running Higher compression domes, The Octane of th fuel should be raised if you are not already doing so. I would also recommend getting a Tachometer to see what rpms it is at and at what throttle postion while in the water under a load. This will help narrow down your issue and closer to a solution. There are alot of varibles that will confuse , but try to keep it simple. John At watcon (Polaris Octane Specialist) can set up your carbs as well as recurve and assist you with the cdi and timing. Good luck
 
Location
Ohio
Yea it will run and sound "OK" on the trailer...but under load it will feel like crap! My experience with MSD's anyway...

And IMO a stator can cause similar symptoms...
 
ok people i dont know what to do about my issue heres what i have done and my other options what do you think?
DONE/Checked:
Carbs: 140 mains 68 pilots 20 psi pop off and carbs are clean
!60 psi compression in both CYLS (new top end and high comp dohms)
New coil
cut the ends of the spark plug wires
check the tuning ports in the exhaust (clear)
checked the reeds, LIKE NEW
NEW GAS
ohmed the stator everything according to spec

OTHER POSSIBILITIES:
- bad crank seals
-crank out of phaze
- fly wheel key scheared
-wrong impeller (too big of a pitch)
-Bad CDI
-Bad stator


IDK what to do any more sick of working on this thing and dragging it to the boat launch to have the same problem everytime
 
my sj had similar symptoms, went over EVERYTHING, stator and cdi all checked out. tried everything with the carbs, nothings helped. got curious one day and took off the flywheel cover, and there were pieces inside my flywheel. the magnet blew apart. put in a new flywheel and it was like a brand new ski. 545270_393304020718527_2142488116_n.jpg
 

VXSXH20

Sionis Industries
Location
Mid-Atlantic
If you tested the Stator by the book, then that should not be an issue, Take the flywheel cover off and look for any damage or metal or fluids. The Stock 777 flywheel is heavy and pretty strong, I would not suspect that to have any issues. The timing pickup behind it should be checked though. I have not personally seen a flywheel key sheared on a 777. I have heard that the 02 models have different stators and flywheels that have to be matched. because they were produced with different degrees of timing. About 10 degrees or so. If the motor is stock, Is it the original? or is it a remanufactered unit? I would check the front case as i stated before as well as the crank seal. These engines have a double seal if i am not mistaken, I have seen some rough ones and they still run. My instict tells me its the CDI, given the info you've states along with the reputation the octanes have for the CDI problem. The only other thing I can think of is check the silicone Bpipe coupler. if it leaks and the engine runs rough, it will cause performance isses as well..

ok people i dont know what to do about my issue heres what i have done and my other options what do you think?
DONE/Checked:
Carbs: 140 mains 68 pilots 20 psi pop off and carbs are clean
!60 psi compression in both CYLS (new top end and high comp dohms)
New coil
cut the ends of the spark plug wires
check the tuning ports in the exhaust (clear)
checked the reeds, LIKE NEW
NEW GAS
ohmed the stator everything according to spec

OTHER POSSIBILITIES:
- bad crank seals
-crank out of phaze
- fly wheel key scheared
-wrong impeller (too big of a pitch)
-Bad CDI
-Bad stator


IDK what to do any more sick of working on this thing and dragging it to the boat launch to have the same problem everytime
 

VXSXH20

Sionis Industries
Location
Mid-Atlantic
if you can get a picture of the impellar or any markings off of it, post it, we can figure out if its stock or not. Does the ski run any different with the Hood off? I do not advise riding without a hood, but in any case does it run better if it was? The water boxes are known to crack, If this has happened and the exhaust is leaking into the hull, it could cause the engine to run poorly, This happened on a ski of mine, I had to limp it back with the hood propped open and had almost no power. fixed the leak and it hit hard again..
 
i pulled the flywheel tonight, key is perfect but there are marks on the magnet that shows it has been rubbing on the stator. dont know if the crank is bent but the bearings are definitly tight. idk what to do put a crank, stator, flywheel and cdi and hope for the best?
 

VXSXH20

Sionis Industries
Location
Mid-Atlantic
runs the same with or without the hood and the flame arrestors, there is no exhaust leaks, the engine is original except for new top end and high comp dohms


The top end meaning you replaced just the gaskets and cylinder domes? or along with the rings or pistons as well? The 777 engine has been known to eat cranks. meaning they have a limited life. The bearings may be ok but if it is bent, Then you will either have to recrank it, ( they are hard to find now a days) Randy former watcon owner used to have spares, You could have it repaired by somone like crankworks or depending on how much you have invested in the original engine...-go to SBT and get a Reman. My octane had to get a REMAN from them, Fair Price and a good warranty too. This in my opinion would be a last resort. I feel that the CDI is on the fritz. I cannot recall how much a new one is. You can search for a used one or send yours to JSS (jet ski solutions) and have him take a look. I would like to say 300 or so to have it reworked/repaired. Also Zig at watcon could probably find you one too.

-as far as the stator hitting the flywheel. If you have or can rent/borrow a run out gauge, This would be my next process, it usually has a magnetic base , you put the dial tip just on the cranks shaft, zero the needle, Then rotate the crank and watch the needle in the gauge to see how many thousandths it is out of round, and compare to a service manual, OR simply put, If the flywheel is already dragging and scraping the stator, and you feel it by hand , then well, BENT is BENT. I will try to attach a photo of the runout process. Very simlilar to this , and can be done with the crank still in the cases.
CrankRunoutCheckDS50.jpg
 
Location
Ohio
I am pretty sure a stator can test good and still be bad..it can do its job (in a test) and still have bad swolen or blown capacitors inside....

It still sounds like classic CDI trouble to me.
 
had the crank checked tonight, it is in "spec"...theres the CDI and the stator left that could be the culprits but the stator ohmed out to spec too, so i figure CDI..and i also had another idea, the impeller could be wrong and have too big of a pitch but that i think is a long shot...
 
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