New dirt bike here. School me!

subhard

TITS OR GTFO
Location
anchorage ak
Picked up a 2005 YZ125 today. Previous owner hasn't ridden it in 4+ years and it has basically been sitting outside uncovered during that whole time.

I plan on putting in fresh fuel and plugs, but what else should I do?

Also the chain seems like it has quite a bit of slop in it. What's the deal with that?
ru6y2a3u.jpg
 

Moto360

Torrent Pumps
Location
Pennellville, NY
Looks like it is in pretty good shape. The carburator will have to come off and clean the jets. Then definitely will need a clean oiled air filter! Then get it hot and change the transmission oil. Then I would see how it runs. I be a little nervous about the crank being rusty from sitting outside.
 

Schmidty721

someone turf my rails
Location
WI
Pull the air filter and make sure everything is clean in the air box & intake track. Install Cleaned or new air filter properly oiled before starting. I would drop the transmission oil and fill with new stuff before running as well.

Chains tension needs to be adjusted. It is a wear item. Chains stretch, sprockets wear. You adjust the chain by the tensioner bolts between the axle blocks and swing arm.

If this was my personal bike I'd be completely strip it down, grease or replace all necessary chassis bearings if it's been sitting outside. Swingarm, suspension linkage, headset bearings, etc.
 

subhard

TITS OR GTFO
Location
anchorage ak
Looks like it is in pretty good shape. The carburator will have to come off and clean the jets. Then definitely will need a clean oiled air filter! Then get it hot and change the transmission oil. Then I would see how it runs. I be a little nervous about the crank being rusty from sitting outside.

Forgive my motorcycle maintenance ignorance, but "get it hot," then see how it runs? So don't run it until I change the transmission oil or do and warm it up?
 

Schmidty721

someone turf my rails
Location
WI
I would change it prior to running and after running it once and getting it warm.
I would also pull the pipe to make sure it is clean. I would hate to see you suck dirt/rats nest or something back into the engine. Make sure you use a motorcycle specific oil designed for wet clutch application. Either a 10-40w motoroil or 80-85 weight gear oil will work
 
I have been using rubella t the white bottles in my quad and cr250 for both engine oil and tranny/clutch oil. Haven't had any problems yet. It was recommended to me over on thumpertalk

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subhard

TITS OR GTFO
Location
anchorage ak
Thanks for all the help so far guys. The exhaust was plugged so all clean and good to go there. But I did all the following;

All new premium fuel premixed 30:1
I also added this fuel additive that cleans up gummed up carbs/lines (Amsoil quick shot)
New transmission oil
Freshened up air filter
Washd'r up
Lubed the chain and checked the tension

Then good news, it started right up and idles fine.

Only weird part is that it doesn't like to idle in first gear or especially when shifting into first from neutral. As long as I keep the RPMs above idle it's fine but it's almost as if the clutch isn't being fully disengaged by the lever. I have it adjusted as tight as possible too, so I'm getting as much throw as possible. It will also want to roll slightly forward when idling in first with the clutch lever fully pulled. What could that be?
 
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If it was cold the tranny oil maybe dragging a little other wise your clutch maybe worn a little. There could be a groove wore into your basket just from normal use. Sometimes you can pull your clutch cover off and file down the edge of the basket and it helps a little

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Schmidty721

someone turf my rails
Location
WI
^^ as Bonsy said, worn (grooved) clutch basket or slightly warped clutch plates can cause it to drag. It isn't uncommon for there to be a slight drag when the engine is cold either. I've found on few occasions that the inner most pressure plate (steel plate) in the clutch pack tends to warp first because it absorbs the most heat. You can lay the bike on it's side, pull the clutch cover, remove the clutch spring bolts and springs and the clutch pack will slide right out. Inner and outer basket will show some wear marks on the splines on the inner hub and where the "tabs" contact on the outer basket. If they are not too bad you can file them smooth. Inspect the steel plates for blueing and warping. Assuming all steel plate thicknesses are the same, take that inner most plate and swap it with one of the plates in the middle of the clutch pack.

Stock clutch baskets and hubs are usually a natural aluminum finish, if you see anything that looks billet or is hard anodized black or a dark color you most likely have some aftermarket components in there, which hold up a lot better than the stock unit.
 

subhard

TITS OR GTFO
Location
anchorage ak
Quick update, thanks again for everyone's help. After burning through a couple gallons without issues the first gear woes have disappeared. Apparently it's possible for clutches that have sat for a long time to almost stick together. So now I just gotta learn how to ride lol. Man I suck. I miss jet skis. Lake should be thawed soon
 

subhard

TITS OR GTFO
Location
anchorage ak
So my next big question should hopefully be an easy one; what's a good but also reasonably inexpensive way to do graphics on this thing? I don't need anything too fancy. Hell I'd be almost fine with rattle canning it all black. Just an all black murdered out look. Or something to match my black with red highlighted hurricane? (See first pic)
 
Graphics usually aren't cheap and pending how u ride it will look like cheap really fast. I wouldn't suggest spray painting the plastics as it will chip real easy. Better off buying a graphics kit or new black plastics. My look like cheap from my knee pads rubbing on them and wiping out. It just happens.

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Schmidty721

someone turf my rails
Location
WI
beginner rider + all black "murdered" out bike = huge D-bag at any local venue FYI lol.
Just buy a full size rear fender for that thing and ride it IMO. If you want new plastic, you can order complete kits from Dennis Kirk or similar for around $100. If you want it black, at least do it cleanly and not spray bomb.


OEM sytle tank and shroud graphics are very reasonable.
One Industries had a complete retro white/red/black kit at one time that was pretty sweet
 
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