New to me 440

[Wettôlocô]

First ski ever and I've done some trolling and know enough to get into trouble, as I just pulled the motor and have a soggy empty hull I'm looking at. Have way to many questions but we'll start with a few, first the ski.
85 kawi 440
Just found paperwork indicating its a 550 with full rebuild, crank, mill work and square carb
1. How can I tell for sure? Motor plate still says 440(local shop said peer into cyl from plugs out n see #? I couldn't see sheet)

2. Thought it was a fuel pump put but now after looking maybe it's a sediment filter? But it has (had) power running to it.. The wires are not hooked up to anything, and side hose is plugged.

3. Fresh charged(new) battery, 30-46 mins riding it will just click, fully dead. Possible stator or ignition coil? I'll get ohm readings after the weekend.

4. Front cyl running very lean. ( white plug after 30mims light riding brand new) rear rich (soaked oil brand new)

thanks in advance, ask questions if I'm not making sense

 

[durhamgoat]

I would do a seal leak down test on motor to see if your seals leak, usually this is the source of lean conditions.

Only way I know to tell 440/550 is take head off and measure piston or cylinder diameter. If you have to replace the seals you will be pulling the head anyway.

The fuel thingy with the wires on it is most likely a review limiter.

 

[Fleabags]

Ditto what "durhamgoat" said. Leak down test is a must.
Pic one: looks to be the disconnected rev limiter circuit in ebox
Pic two: Is the rev limiter
Pic three: 38 SBN carb
Regarding starter. easy to diagnose if it is a starter or stater relay problem. Assuming battery is good and your ground wires are solid and in the right places (make sure ebox is grounded), you can use an ohm meter or, easier yet, arc the posts on the ebox with a screwdriver. If the starter spins, you have a starter relay issue . Relays are easy to replace. If starter motor doesn't spin, you can take apart the starter and sometimes clean them up. If it is badly worn or corroded, you may have to get a new starter or have yours rebuilt.
Let us know what you discover.

 

[Fleabags]

 

[Wettôlocô]

AlRight so I have a leak somewhere, blocked off intake and exhaust, put her at 10 and within 45 seconds it's already dropping, so just order seal kit? I sprayed soapy water all over a few times and could not see any visible bubbles, possibly inside where the stator is? Have paperwork dated in '12 that did a full rebuild. Ski has been sitting so prolly dry seals. Someone point me in a educated way so I'm not just throwing useless money at a bunch of seals and time if I don't have to replace, I'll get some ohm readings later tonight of the stator wires (green, grey and black?) and see if my puller will pull the flywheel to visibly check stator, anything else? I'll be able to heck rings also and conferm if it's a 550. Thanks

 

[Wettôlocô]

So got my analog meter, it's only got ohm X1k and every wire it just tacks the gauge all the way.. Need a 2k or is all working ? Here's a pick of the meter. It goes all the way to 0, but I can roll a little "dial" on the side and get the ohms to read about 1.7

 

[Wettôlocô]

So
Green-green= 1.6-1-8ohm
Green-Blk = 1.8ohm
Green-grey= 1.8ohm

 

[Wettôlocô]

Ditto what "durhamgoat" said. Leak down test is a must.
Pic one: looks to be the disconnected rev limite
Let us know what you discover.

Sorry for multiple reply's hard on the phone, but the box with those wires in the pic has my main fuel lines running threw it, and the line coming out on the side is plugged with a screw, no starter problems, meant to say stator behind the flywheel. The ski starts and run's, just doesn't run full throttle and takes about 20-30mins to be able to actually throttle past 1/4 or it will die. And it just drains the battery in this time then need to recharge

 

[Fleabags]

My bad on the Starter / Stator thing.
I can't help with what the readings should be on the Stator or why its draining your battery.
Regarding the rev limiter, you don't need it and the previous owner bypassed it and plugged the fuel line going back tot he carb. The idea is, if your revs spike way up, like a stuck throttle, the rev limiter sends fuel to the carb to richen it to the point where it brings the RPMs back down. Many bypass them since a motor that has been modified could trigger the rev limiter when running WOT.
Assuming remaining fuels lines are hooked up properly, you should be fine.

 

[Wettôlocô]

So what would cause a leaner cylinder then the other? Leak gasket and/or spark plug wires? The rear cylinder is way lean, and looks like front piston rings may be bad? It's got some odd wear marks. Two there opposite each other on piston. Cylinders look decent, still has some cross hatch other then the front wear. Any input? Thanks going to order new gaskets and rings and put her back together

 

[Wettôlocô]

So went and found my caliper and measured the piston, 75.01mm so it's a 550, with standard bore from what I can tell. Right?

 

[Fleabags]

Difficult to point out one thing as your cause without looking everything over. You really should have done a leak down test before tearing it apart. If it is your crank seals, you either have to replace them now or risk putting everything back together to do a leak down test and potentially have to tear it all down again. If if were me, I'd replace them. They all go bad eventually on these things. This would give you a chance to see the crank as well. Did you see any voids in the gaskets you removed? Could your head gasket have been leaking water into that cylinder, that would lean it out for sure.
I just noticed that you mentioned the crankshaft was replaced. Do you know when? I would assume they replaced the crank seals at that time, so you could be okay. You could bolt the head back on with a makeshift gasket and plug your intake and exhaust ports and do the leak down test now. This would give you piece of mind.
One more thing, the "non lean" piston looks like it stuck inside the cylinder at one time. The ring looks like its stuck in the piston ring groove. See the blow by? What does the cylinder look like? What does the lean piston/cylinder look like? I wouldn't put that damaged piston back in there it I were you.

 

[Wettôlocô]

Difficult to point out one thing as your

So I did do a leak down test that's why I tore her down, it would hold 9lbs for like 45 seconds then start coming down fairly quick. I'm bout to order a new top end rebuild Pistons rings and seals. Leaving it at 75mm bore as I'm not trying to throw a lot of money at this. The rebuild was in 12' so it's been a few years of who knows what. Pretty sure it's sat for most that. For the crank seal just use 1211 three bond ? And the rest is dry gaskets? I tore it down and am looking at the stator now... Looks old and dirty but no visual defects.. How can I know the stator is good and maybe the charging issue is in the ebox??

 

[Fleabags]

Sorry man, I'm not your guy for electrical and the stator. I've own numerous jetskis and plenty of other two-strokes and never had to mess with a faulty Stator. I guess i'm fortunate. However, they are pretty robust if you don't mess with them. I have a Clymer manual kicking around somewhere if you need me to find you what the OHM readings should be- so you can test it.
When you did a leak down test, did you spray soapy water around to find bubbles and where the leak was coming from? That's pretty important. Typically, the crankcase doesn't leak in the areas of the three-bond. It leaks at the crankcase seals, either at the end where the stator is or by the drive coupling.
No sense splitting the case if the seals are good.