SX/SXi/SXi Pro New to standups, what do you guys think?

Finally bought a 92 750sx. Had alot of trouble finding good skis around the dfw area. Seems like everyone wants 2000-2500 for anything decent. Picked this one up for 2 grand. Has a fresh motor, fresh paint, hydroturf,
aftermarket intake grate and rideplate, new solas prop, upgraded handlebars and throttle. Little bit more than I wanted to spend, but I guess you gotta pay to play. Previous owner seemed very meticulous, hope it lasts awhile.

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A Few questions.. Is there an adjustment to make it turn in tighter circles when falling off? If not where can i buy a kill switch/ lanyard setup? How do i stop porposing?
 

Mark44

Katie's Boss
Location
100% one place
You can't make it turn tighter circles, any shop would have a lanyard, even Walmart carries them where I live. You can even turn your idle down so it dies when you fall off. Porposing will stop with you body position and weight, try to get your weight forward.
 
You can't make it turn tighter circles, any shop would have a lanyard, even Walmart carries them where I live. You can even turn your idle down so it dies when you fall off. Porposing will stop with you body position and weight, try to get your weight forward.

Been reading up, guess i need to order a faceplate and lanyard. I do have the idle turned down. Would hate for it to run away if the throttle got pinned somehow
 
you just need more time on the ski to stop the porposing. just keep having fun and practicing. Def buy yourself a face plate so you can run the lantern set-up.
 
looks like a AC pole too, nice looking ski!

Tray time will stop porposing, I spent a bunch of money on mine to stop it and have now taken all the parts off so it will freestyles better, dont waste your money on tons of AM parts for it. I do have some used 2" carbon fiber hull extensions if you want them. I'll sell em cheap.Also, there is a set of billet straight bars with a quick steer plate on ebay for $100 that will bring the bars forward a inch or so more than a normal quick steer plate. I just bought one and love it. Company is called JRE, they are two piece bars and can be angled if needed.
 
looks like a AC pole too, nice looking ski!

Tray time will stop porposing, I spent a bunch of money on mine to stop it and have now taken all the parts off so it will freestyles better, dont waste your money on tons of AM parts for it. I do have some used 2" carbon fiber hull extensions if you want them. I'll sell em cheap.Also, there is a set of billet straight bars with a quick steer plate on ebay for $100 that will bring the bars forward a inch or so more than a normal quick steer plate. I just bought one and love it. Company is called JRE, they are two piece bars and can be angled if needed.

Had no idea it was an aftermarket pole. Guess that explains why I havent ripped it off yet and why its so light! Anyhow I have flipped this thing a few times. Is there a certain way to flip it back over. My old yamaha 1300r could only be flipped clockwise or else water could make its way into the engine.
 
Location
NW PA
Flip it so that the air intake is on the up side as you roll it. If you are facing the pump roll it clockwise. Sometimes if the pole spring is strong enough and there is enough flotation in the pole it will self-right. Yes you need a faceplate to use a lanyard, the mod takes 5 minutes and a phillips head screwdriver.
 
Flip it so that the air intake is on the up side as you roll it. If you are facing the pump roll it clockwise. Sometimes if the pole spring is strong enough and there is enough flotation in the pole it will self-right. Yes you need a faceplate to use a lanyard, the mod takes 5 minutes and a phillips head screwdriver.


what he said, dont get discouraged about falling off, It happens to every one. Its ok as long as your having fun when it happens lol.
Post some pics of the motor, We all love ski porn
 
Location
dfw
Considering your height/weight, make sure the factory nozzle wedge is in place and get an extended ride plate. Hull extensions are hard to find but wonderful for big riders. The old 750 is best for carving edge to edge and they are soft landing wake jumpers. Going fast will take practice because they tend to porpoise a lot and get tippy at top speed. GET THE 1996+ FACEPLATE! Sooner or later you will be glad you did.
 
Not sure what exactly is done to the motor. Havent torn into it, just been trying to ride. Here they are loaded up. The other two couches are 2011 vxr and fzr. I nicknamed them "the rentals", sad thing is they have more scratches than my 20 year old 750. They are my buddy Steve's, unfortunatly our friends who claim to know how to "ride" really can't
 
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I also want to verify the ski has a late model cdi. The 1992 supposedly had no rev limiter and that scares me. The PO replaced the topend so that takes care of the paper thin pistons that came on the 92. Does anyone have part numbers for
92 cdi? I really have been doing a ton of research because its always a mystery buying used equipment.
 
Location
dfw
Look at the numbers on the CDI, 3729 is not desirable but I did run one for ten years with out problems. Find a 3733, 3734, or 3735. A 3738 has higher rev limits that you wont need. Carefully check the ignition timing. You want to see the timing retard to 15-16 degrees at high rpm for pump gas use.
 
You need an extended ride plate to stop porpoising- trust me.

92-96 750 ride plates are compatible but only the 18" long worx d-cut ride plate is long enough to fix the porpoising problem. I have one for sale (not listed) if you want it.

I have a shredmaster SXR 18" plate on my '96 (redrilled obviously) and like it for carving, and tried the worx just once. The worx was awesome for stabil, straight top speed without the bounce.
 
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