New to SXR's

keep it stock class for now, until you want to dump some serious money into it.

bullett or tbm plate, intake grate, solas 13/21 or skat 13/18, shorter pole/steering system, rejet, custom water routing, timing advance, flame arrestors, and then ride it every weekend.
 

djkorn1

kidkornfilms
Site Supporter
Location
Cleveland Ohio
For buoys: Intake Grate, Factory "b" WetPipe, Mill Head to 180psi, Lighten Flywheel or get aftermarket. It'll rip! Keep flame arrestor stock, just follow Factory pipe instructions and it tells you EXACTLY how to install pipe and tune in carbs.

If you are going to race competitively, check to see what mods are okay for stock class racing, if you are just having fun, go for it with the mods.
 
Location
Mesa AZ
keep it stock class for now, until you want to dump some serious money into it.

bullett or tbm plate, intake grate, solas 13/21 or skat 13/18, shorter pole/steering system, rejet, custom water routing, timing advance, flame arrestors, and then ride it every weekend.

Any specific reasons for that pitch impeller? Could you elaborate on the water routing?

For buoys: Intake Grate, Factory "b" WetPipe, Mill Head to 180psi, Lighten Flywheel or get aftermarket. It'll rip! Keep flame arrestor stock, just follow Factory pipe instructions and it tells you EXACTLY how to install pipe and tune in carbs.

If you are going to race competitively, check to see what mods are okay for stock class racing, if you are just having fun, go for it with the mods.

Prefer milling the head over going aftermarket? Any reason to keep arresters stock instead of aftermarket?
 
if you are serious about racing/buoys, then i highly suggest looking into the rulebook. you cannot mill the head, add a pipe, or alter the flywheel components in any way without putting you into a much higher class designation (flywheel mods put you in GP class, as they aren't even allowed in limited class...)

at that point you are running against superstocks and 1100 sxr's.
 
Location
Mesa AZ
Wont be doing any racing other than local ride days so not too concerned with meeting class requirements. Just want to have a fun and reliable ski so probably wont be doing any head work or anything along those lines. Would like to just put flame arrestors, ride plate, scoop grate, impeller, and an rrp pole but just not sure which plate, grate, and impeller would suit me best.

Are R&D ride plates and Aquavein Scoop grates any good? What about a Worx plate? I get them for dealer cost so if theyre decent ill probably go that route.
 
Location
Mesa AZ
The general consensus seems to be the TBM grate and plate so ill probably go that route.

My next question is how can I get rid of the fuel selector on the dash? Is it as easy as just running the one reserve line straight to the carbs? Assuming then that I would just plug the "ON" pick up and it would work fine?
 
Location
Mesa AZ
Already removed the choke. Will I have to purge the reserve line to get fuel flowing again after I disconnect it or can I just disconnect it from the petcock and put it straight on the carb?
 
Get a set of straight bars and re-drill your stock turn plate to mount them, you can shorten your steering setup up to 4" I think. Very cheap mod and if you decide to upgrade your handle pole later you'll have a better idea of what lenght you wanna go with...image.jpg
 
Location
Mesa AZ
and so starts the Frankenski, good luck! You probably can't even lay the ski on it's side and you're modifying it already....

If some ergonomic and bolt on performance mods create a "frankenski" then I cant imagine what a full mod sxr would look like! And im not sure what I did on my end to instigate the smack talking?
 
he means...you are modifying it without even coming close to mastering it "as is". truth is..no one masters a stock ski before modding them and its a shame. it makes you a WAY better rider if you ride a stocker for a year or so
 
Location
Mesa AZ
Understandable. Throughout this thread I've steered away from any engine modifications thus far for that reason specifically. Growing up racing MX I understand the concept of a faster engine doesn't make a faster rider. But that never kept me from putting more comfortable bars and better tires on so I don't think ergonomic mods like controls, a grate and a plate are reason to talk smack.

And I think I do pretty good considering ive got a recently reconstructed spine and am still overcoming paralysis
 

bird

walking on water
Site Supporter
If some ergonomic and bolt on performance mods create a "frankenski" then I cant imagine what a full mod sxr would look like! And im not sure what I did on my end to instigate the smack talking?

You want to remove the choke, temp sensors, and water flush hookup. All things that keep the boat more reliable, and you gain nothing from removing them as a rider(Jumping the engine bay temp resistor gives ~6 degrees timing advance, that makes sense. I've done it, but I didn't remove "it" per say.).

I would do Zero Bars and -2 pole before intake or ride plate. That is unless you plan on racing right away, just get a better intake grate.

1. Bars
2. Short Pole(the stocker will crack if you ride hard, mine made it 3 months.)
3. Jump the temp sensor

4. Intake and Pipe
5. Head and Flywheel.

I ride alone almost always, so a trusty boat in the Cali Surf, crazy Lake Michigan waves, or Mississippi Back waters is a MUST.

I have a TBM Ride plate, I only use it during racing now. It has good auto tracking which is good when you're chasing other boats and don't want to waste effort keeping your boat inline. I hate it for freeride though, you can't turn as sharp with the extra 1-2 inches sticking out the rear. I want to try a D-cut stocker.
 
Location
Mesa AZ
I was just curios if they could be removed. I wanted to shorten the flush hookup simply to clean up the engine bay. Thanks for the input
 
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