Hey everyone i recently got a wb1 for my brother off a guy from this website. I took it out one day and it ran great other than a slight bog down low. So the next day off i filled the tank and was gonna try to dial in the carb. Upon filling the tank and taking it out i noticed it was boggina dn running poorly. Came in to tune on the trailer and noticed a big crack in the gas tank. Found a new tank and installed it and still running not right. So i took apart the carb and cleaned it all up. Found that the low side screw didnt have a washer or rubber seal on it! Put a rubber seal and washer on and started at the factory turns out of 1 and tried to tune from there. I can not get this thing to quit running rich. When you guys are saying turn one turn. You mean a complete 360 turn correct? Also i see that resistance is supposed to be evident in the plug wires when testing. When i hook the leads up there is nothing showing at all. I clipped the wires back and still nothing. However there is good sparK? Doesnt that make absolutely no sense? ANy and all help is greatly appreciated as this is my brothers ski and he will be coming to pick it up soon and i need to have it running atleast decently would prefer to get it running correctly though. THnaks for any and all advice. I live in tarpon springs and if anyone is local and is going out riding where i could meet you and see what you think is goin on that would be AWESOME! Thanks again.
new wb1 problems
- Thread starter sick650sx
- Start date
Mike W
Infidel
- Location
- North Florida
Yes, 360* turn = 1 turn. What do your speak plugs look like? When you cleaned the carb, did you check all the diaphrams and the internal filter? If any of the diaphrams are "wrinkled" they need to be replaced.
Also, I kind of ran into the same issue earlier this year. One of my stock plug wires was broken about 1 1/2" from the boot so cutting it back did no good. I would get spark but under load it would cut out due to the hotter spark. So I had the wires replaced.
Last edited:
Dustin Mustangs
uʍop ǝpıs dn
- Location
- Holland, MI
If it is indeed running rich with the stock jetting and screw settings it could have a leaky needle and seat. Did you change or inspect that during the rebuild?
cattledog
EH TEAM RACING
- Location
- toronto canada
when i bought my b1 the guy pulled a fast one he said it was running great, i purchased it in winter , i had same problems like stated above wires were bad and one spark plug boot, try changing the spark plug boots they are like 5 dollars a peice
1 turn means a 360* rotation FROM ALL THE WAY IN.
in other words, you turn the adjustor in all the way, THEN back it out 1 complete rotation.
not sure if you were going 1 turn IN or OUT. big difference, though.
having an open circuit between the sparkplug leads, yet getting a spark is not uncommon. the spark is jumping past the internal break in the wire. the voltage that a meter supplies will not do that.
in other words, you turn the adjustor in all the way, THEN back it out 1 complete rotation.
not sure if you were going 1 turn IN or OUT. big difference, though.
having an open circuit between the sparkplug leads, yet getting a spark is not uncommon. the spark is jumping past the internal break in the wire. the voltage that a meter supplies will not do that.
thanks for the quick replies guys.
1)Carb cleaning- When i cleaned the carb. I carefully and slowly pulled both sides of carb off. On the side with the filter and diaphrams there was a little bit of stuff in the filter. I cleaned that completely out with carb clean. As far as the diaphrams. It was nice and flat and to me looked to be sitting flush and not abnormal looking. Now the needle and seat...When i pulled both needles and inspected they seemed to be ok. From what i remember from school and reading on the board, if there isnt a ledge or build up, or obvious wear then the needles are ok correct? Same for where the needles go into right?
Spark Plugs -Ok the plugs when i left tuning on the trailer yesterday were looking perfect. Nice coffee color. That was after probably 3-4hrs test and tune in the water. Before this the front was money, the rear was wet and black with fuel. So with it running with the coffee color plugs it would be at 3/4 throttle and feel like it was at full throttle, and when you hit full throttle it just bogged. Adding or subtracting fuel made no difference other than screwing up the ide and low speed accelration characteristics.
Spark Plug WIres- As far as these go if i cant see resistance there is a definite problem correct? Does anyone know if i can get these local to tarpon springs florida? By clearwater and tampa. Can i just get plug wire and make them myself? How are they attached at the coil? Whats the aveage cost of this? and a coil?
Spark Plug Boot- Any suggestions where to get these at? Mine look fine but i'll give it a shot. On my 650 i just bought some automotive caps and used them.
Sorry for the length just trying to be descript so you all know whats goin on. Thanks again.
1)Carb cleaning- When i cleaned the carb. I carefully and slowly pulled both sides of carb off. On the side with the filter and diaphrams there was a little bit of stuff in the filter. I cleaned that completely out with carb clean. As far as the diaphrams. It was nice and flat and to me looked to be sitting flush and not abnormal looking. Now the needle and seat...When i pulled both needles and inspected they seemed to be ok. From what i remember from school and reading on the board, if there isnt a ledge or build up, or obvious wear then the needles are ok correct? Same for where the needles go into right?
Spark Plugs -Ok the plugs when i left tuning on the trailer yesterday were looking perfect. Nice coffee color. That was after probably 3-4hrs test and tune in the water. Before this the front was money, the rear was wet and black with fuel. So with it running with the coffee color plugs it would be at 3/4 throttle and feel like it was at full throttle, and when you hit full throttle it just bogged. Adding or subtracting fuel made no difference other than screwing up the ide and low speed accelration characteristics.
Spark Plug WIres- As far as these go if i cant see resistance there is a definite problem correct? Does anyone know if i can get these local to tarpon springs florida? By clearwater and tampa. Can i just get plug wire and make them myself? How are they attached at the coil? Whats the aveage cost of this? and a coil?
Spark Plug Boot- Any suggestions where to get these at? Mine look fine but i'll give it a shot. On my 650 i just bought some automotive caps and used them.
Sorry for the length just trying to be descript so you all know whats goin on. Thanks again.
the needle and seat is inside the carb. theres only one. i think youre referring to the high and low adjustors. those arent needle and seats.
if the back plug was looking too rich, and you only have one carb, and you have no continuity between plug caps, you have a bad wire.
depending on how far back the break is, youll need to get a new coil.
get MSD boots for the ends.
if the back plug was looking too rich, and you only have one carb, and you have no continuity between plug caps, you have a bad wire.
depending on how far back the break is, youll need to get a new coil.
get MSD boots for the ends.
Mike W
Infidel
- Location
- North Florida
You can do that but the wire might be broken where it goes into the E box.
Yes, that is an option. If you don't have the tools or know how like me, send it to John at www.jetskisolutions.com to replaced the wires.
alright i got the thing running pretty good. Nice light brown/tan color on the plugs and responsive throttle. However it seems like out of nowhere it will start to miss at full throttle sometimes. Could this be the coil cutting out even though i couldnt pull any of the core out and resistance didnt change when bending the wires? Also sometimes when first starting after its been stopped for a few minutes, it will start get ready to run then stall. Start right back up and its good to go? Think the low is too rich maybe? Thanks for the help so far.
Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
sounds like you may have another break in the wires. With the age of that ski, I would just order a new coil for it. on SJ's we will order the Kawi 750 coils, they are much cheaper and the exact same part.
cattledog
EH TEAM RACING
- Location
- toronto canada
new coil comes with wires and then buy two new screw in type spark plug boots the only way to do it , the sprak plug boots have a resitor in them that go bad sometimes
right on about the coil coming with the wires but i've read on here that the coil hardly ever goes bad just the wires, and that the wires can be replaced by cleaning out the old wire carefully and leaving the two post out of the coil to put the new wires on and then epoxy them in. I think im going to try it just for the hell of it cause its definitely the cheapest way to go as i have pretty much everything laying around.
Still got some problems.
Ok guys i got the thing running decently and tuned the carb to where it had good response but i think the coil still needs to be replaced. My brother ordered a new coil so it should be to his house in a few days. However when he came down to pick it up and we were riding it, the ski was running pretty well with a random misfire from the coil im guessing. However once we brought the ski in it wouldnt start at all after a few hours of riding. Checked spark and no spark on either plug. So i figured the coil completely crapped out but figured we could check the start stop switch as that was the only thing touched while out at the water to obviously shut the ski off when approaching shore. Sure enough when the s/s switch was disconnected the ski fired immediately and strongly only on one plug. So we took the switch apart and the rubber that seals the saftey lanyard had a hole allowing water into it. Cleaned it out and dried it off and ran like before which was ok slight miss here and there. Ran for 5 minutes like that then the would not restart. No spark even with the s/s disconnected. My brother has checked all resistances and says that everything checks out ok as far as that goes and he doesnt see any reason why it shouldnt atleast be sparking. If you have any and all suggestions i would greatly appreciate them as would my brother. Thanks in advance.
Ok guys i got the thing running decently and tuned the carb to where it had good response but i think the coil still needs to be replaced. My brother ordered a new coil so it should be to his house in a few days. However when he came down to pick it up and we were riding it, the ski was running pretty well with a random misfire from the coil im guessing. However once we brought the ski in it wouldnt start at all after a few hours of riding. Checked spark and no spark on either plug. So i figured the coil completely crapped out but figured we could check the start stop switch as that was the only thing touched while out at the water to obviously shut the ski off when approaching shore. Sure enough when the s/s switch was disconnected the ski fired immediately and strongly only on one plug. So we took the switch apart and the rubber that seals the saftey lanyard had a hole allowing water into it. Cleaned it out and dried it off and ran like before which was ok slight miss here and there. Ran for 5 minutes like that then the would not restart. No spark even with the s/s disconnected. My brother has checked all resistances and says that everything checks out ok as far as that goes and he doesnt see any reason why it shouldnt atleast be sparking. If you have any and all suggestions i would greatly appreciate them as would my brother. Thanks in advance.