Newb Carb Question

DocPhil

DocPhil

Location
Michigan
So this is my first year doing mods on my 2014 SJ and I have done a few minor ones so far like ride plate, intake grate, impeller, bars, bilge pump, etc. So I am learning here bear with me. This is my first "motor" work.

So anyways, I pulled the carb today and drilled out the anti tamper caps. I have already ordered the T screws from Jet maniac so I was prepping it for this. My plan was to keep the stock settings for now but I think I drilled a bit too deep and turned the screws. The only mods I have that would affect the need to adjust the carbs are a/m f/a's and a primer kit.

2 questions:

1)is the attached picture showing the actual stock settings for my SJ that I need to follow and get back to?

2)Should I follow these and just turn the high speed adjusters out like a 1/4 turn to richen it up a touch? I was told that the F/a's and primer will cause a need for a bit more fuel.

Thanks in advance!

Screenshot_20170317-221047.png
 
erik mx45

erik mx45

Location
outer banks
stay with stock setting and then adjust when needed for best performance !we cant realy tell you what will and wont work as every motor responds different!
 
DocPhil

DocPhil

Location
Michigan
So I decided I'm gonna go with 1.0 turn out on the lows and 1.5 on the highs and go from there.

2 questions

1)The spring and washers that are on the stock adjusters go on the T adjusters correct?

2)I am having trouble knowing what is "tight" on the T screws. Basically I tightened them down until it is very difficult to hand tighten any more then turned them out what I said above On some, the Tees on the T screws ended up very close to the carb when they were "tight". Is that correct? Thanks
 
DocPhil

DocPhil

Location
Michigan
Are the groovess really noticeable? I see some small scratches but no big grooves.
 

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DocPhil

DocPhil

Location
Michigan
New question

So my motor is stock 701. Only mods that affect anything relevant are aftermarket f/as and an exhaust insert.

The motor is idling way too fast. I have the idle stop screw all the way out. How far can I turn the low speed adjusters out before I need a new pilot jet. If so, what size would I go with?

2)the throttle response is not crisp. I did put in a lower tension spring. 95 grams. Or 90 grams. Can't remember the exact number. Should I put the stock spring back in or replace the needle. I added a lower tension spring due to the f/as. But apparently it wasn't necessary.
 
Bryan.wells

Bryan.wells

Location
Washington
If your idle screw is way backed out and your idle is still high, make sure you have slack in the throttle cable and that the cable isnt holding it open.

You should be anywhere from a minimum of .75 turns all the way till about 2.8 turns out effectively. Cost close to stock set up SJ's running 701 dual 38 carbs run from 60-70 on the pilot. i think 65 for a stock ski with just a B-pipe, and up to a 70 if you remove all the choke plates and such.

your 1 step down on the spring from stock and that should run fine. Did you pull out all the choke crap yet?
 
Bryan.wells

Bryan.wells

Location
Washington
yeah so with the chokes gone you will most likely go up on pilot jet size, maybe to a 70. if you don't have the jet then open up the low end screw maybe 1/8 or so until then. This is all assuming you have that low to mid range dip in power
 
DocPhil

DocPhil

Location
Michigan
So apparently the stock is a 70 pilot on the RN SJ. I went up to a 72.5.

Now my lows are 1 turn out and the idle is all the way out still. I checked the throttle cable and it's good.

Seems to be running smooth at this setup. At least on land. Haven't ridden her yet. Any harm in having the idle all the way out?
 
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