Nitrous

Location
SW UT
Change of plans, testing Thursday after class. Fuel pump wasn't leaking yesterday, today it was leaking like a sieve. Take it off, fix it, stick it on and now the pump just won't fire up. Got a new pump but didn't have time to test today, so will tidy up the wiring and stuff and install/test the new pump and hopefully have it going by Thursday. The system works fine though during the tests. Seeing nitrous being injected is pretty sweet! Then you can see all the fittings ice up, pretty neat!
 

SkiDiggity

formerly kawirider142
It looks like he is running an aftermarket head so my guess is that he is already running at least 91 octane. Good luck man hope it dont blow up on ya! make sure you get video i want to see that thing take off like a rocket !! haha
 
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Location
SW UT
Taken it out twice, will post pics in a bit (haven't got vid yet). Running 91 octane (could of gotten 93 octane, but that wasn't at local station). At my house I get 135psi, where I ride I get around 160psi. So far I've been using a 10hp boost (with nitrous and fuel together, so that it doesn't lean out). No pre-detonation or anything weird with the engine. I have it set so the switch is pressed when the throttle is fully depressed and works great! Very controlled, though pulls a lot more than I'm used to. You could say it unlocks the potential of my 14/19 Solas, which is way over pitched when not boosting. $13 for 2.5lbs, and I seem to burn about 2lbs/hour, though still need to play with it. The original fuel pump burned out when I was testing the electronics at home, so got a new one and then tidied everything up. I paid $500 for the kit, which I think was a total rip off and could be done a LOT cheaper, though I wanted to make sure I had everything needed instead of making a custom kit like originally planned.

All in all, I couldn't be happier. Probably one of the cheapest alternatives to more horsepower, and since I ride at altitude, I don't have to worry about over working the engine since my boost is set to compensate for the ~20% power loss I feel.
 
Location
SW UT
Have a red arming switch in the tray, the fogger is inserted into the flame arrestor adapter, fuel pump tees into the fuel line going to the carb and has its own independent filter, then the two solenoids are on a plate and bolted to the side of the hull near the fuel lines, finally the nitrous tank mounts to a bracket above the fuel tank on the starboard side.

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Location
SW UT
Yea, if you look at the top pic, the switch is the white rectangular thing between the carb and battery. The switch is set so that when the throttle cable rotates the throttle plate, at full rotation it triggers the switch. Not sure on the terminology, but in this picture of a carb, the semi circle on the right is what I'm talking about, when that rotates over it just pushes on the switch to start injecting.

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Haven't tried any subs yet this year, was actually thinking the same thing going to school. I'd think if you angled down enough the boost would help a ton (figure the engine can't starve from lack of air as much, since you're injecting), otherwise it might just pull you out of the sub when you hit it. Gonna have to play with it for sure!
 
Location
SW UT
When I boost for very long (a couple of seconds), then my pipe starts acting up and won't seem to resonate with the boost off, any ideas? If I go to the beach and wait a few minutes, or turn my screws in and reset them then the pipe works fine until after I've boosted again. I've tried different pipe settings and changing the nitrous/gas mixture around a bit (from normally 50/50) though haven't found anything.

650sx engine, factory pipe, 44mm sbn, .024" gas/nitrous jets
 
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