- Location
- Eustis fl
I have a 155mm pump and the prop has spun loose twice now. I have tighten the living piss out of it both times. I checked the prop while installing it and it doesn’t touch or grab the pump anywhere anybody have any ideas?
Nobody can figure it out prop loosing itself
- Thread starter Thattowerguy?
- Start date
Clean and dry both the impeller threads and drive shaft and coat with purple locktite. It does a few things, holds prop from backing off, lubricates threads to keep from galling on, and in my experience it also helps keep the wheel from tightening itself on so bad that you bend up impeller removal tools trying to get props loose that have been jackhammered on from Freestyle tricks that load/ unload the pump. Obviously you need to tighten it sufficiently before locktite kicks.
- Location
- Coeur D' Alene, ID
Most people I know just hand tighten the prop and let the motor and water do the rest, short of motor running in reverse how does this happen?
Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
Motor kicking back from timing being off?????????????
Do you know the number of the locktite your using?
DAG
Yes, my balls tickled from that landing
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
I've had it happen by putting on a new prop (hand tight) and priming the ski on the trailer on dry land prior to setting the ski in the water for the first time.
After the initial "water set" it shouldn't come loose.
After the initial "water set" it shouldn't come loose.
Okay. Usually I've seen those referred to as "blue" so I wasn't sure if you meant something unusual. A lot of people don't know that there are actually zillions of different loc-tite flavors.
I use red on steering, pole and pump nozzle bolts
Purple on engine fasteners and impeller
And blue on about everything else
Not saying it’s right or wrong, everybody does it their own way. Just saying it works for me, I don’t have stuff rattling loose.
Salty riders need to gob blobs of grease on everything to be able to get it apart again.
Purple on engine fasteners and impeller
And blue on about everything else
Not saying it’s right or wrong, everybody does it their own way. Just saying it works for me, I don’t have stuff rattling loose.
Salty riders need to gob blobs of grease on everything to be able to get it apart again.
- Location
- Coeur D' Alene, ID
You have bigger issues than loctite IMO, first time you rev the ski in the water it should tighten down your prop to the point of being a bitch to get back off.
- Location
- the jetski grave yard
use silicone instead of Loctite.
OCD Solutions
Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
- Location
- Rentz, GA
What ignition are you running? The one and only time I have ever seen that happen was on a boat with ignition issues.
He is a Florida local, and I have talked with him several times about it. I told him to post up since it is a mystery to me.
Happened with 2 different props. Each time it happened he said there were no backfires and ski was running good. He said no marks or high spots on wear ring. OEM 155 pump.
Happened with 2 different props. Each time it happened he said there were no backfires and ski was running good. He said no marks or high spots on wear ring. OEM 155 pump.
- Location
- Eustis fl
I ran my ski for 6 months on the first prop then it spun it and ruined the threads . So I bought a new prop tightened it and rode the ski for 15 mins and loaded it back up and fired it on the trailer to clear the water box and it spun off again . Also I’m running msd total loss and it doesn’t backfire runs great . Thanks for the input guys I’ll try purple lock tite
- Location
- Eustis fl
@ bi
Haven’t messed with the timing engine has always ran great what do you mean or should I ask what could cause it to back off from timing?
- Location
- Reno,NV
the motor is running backwards
when you shut your engine off, as it comes to a stop the last rotation cannot overcome compression so is goes backwards
timing set to close , advance stops piston before it reaches tdc and sends it backwards ....
when you shut your engine off, as it comes to a stop the last rotation cannot overcome compression so is goes backwards
timing set to close , advance stops piston before it reaches tdc and sends it backwards ....
- Location
- North Carolina
Happens to me all the time. I too run total loss. Seams like I should run some purple locktite. I think it comes down to rotating mass. I am running a 155 83mm hub prop, if I crank the engine out of the water then let it idle it doesn’t spin off. If I rev it and then hit the button it just about always spins free. I just spin it back on by hand and don’t crank it again till I’m in the water. I believe it’s a non issue for 144pumps. The rotating mass is closer to the centerline of the shaft so there’s not enough torque to spin loose. As stated above my timing advance is high and compression, between these two the crank stops quick and jars it loose.
I’ve seen it on two 155 pumps with big displacement motors and radical timing last summer. Didn’t even have to shut the motor off, just brap it on a cart or in the water and impeller would wheel right off on the engine deceleration. As Squach says, the heavy impeller just keeps on rolling while the motor slows down fast. Purple locktite cured them both.
- Location
- South Africa
Vibration from engine going down driveshaft.
A helpful tip for everyone:
If you have an impeller stuck on a shaft that even heat won't get off, use spanner and pipe to try loosen impeller, get another person to use steel hammers to tap the shaft from either side at the same time, impeller will pop loose
A helpful tip for everyone:
If you have an impeller stuck on a shaft that even heat won't get off, use spanner and pipe to try loosen impeller, get another person to use steel hammers to tap the shaft from either side at the same time, impeller will pop loose
- Location
- Eustis fl
that makes sense I’ll use purple lock tite thanks for your info I appreciate it