Nobody can figure it out prop loosing itself

Freakrider

Freakrider

X247
Location
Tampa Bay area
No one has mentioned that the impeller needs colossal torqued with a big wrench, driveshaft tool secured in a vice. There's no issues with it backing off then using never seize on the threads.
 
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iQRTurbo

iQRTurbo

Freakrider said:
No one has mentioned that the impeller needs colossal torqued with a big wrench, driveshaft tool secured in a vice to 72 ft/lbs; this is comparable to a vehicle lug nut force. There's no issues with it backing off then using never seize on the threads.
Click to expand...

I have a fixture made to hold the driveshaft just ahead of the impeller as to be able to give an impeller far more torque that holding it by the splines with a drive shaft tool and allowing the shaft to twist torsionally and eat up the torque with the springy twist. Honestly every ski is a snowflake, no two are alike. My setups never spit a prop but two of my riding buddies torqued the same method will. Obviously not everyone needs locktite to hold the prop on, but on the two spitting props like crazy, a liberal amount of purple worked for us.
We didn’t use an activator, the locktite I use is activated anerobically, so once it doesn’t see air between the threads it kicks off and hardens
 
I

Iconicsuperpoop

Location
Here
Um, two things to consider.
1) purple loctite is made for fasteners under 1/4" in diameter.
2) blue loctite is actually recommended for stainless, no "activator" required.

This is direct from a loctite tech guy (yeah, not that they know all), and also readily available on their website. Not that hard to find this info.

In simple terms, the motor applies force in the direction to tighten. You have bigger issues. Have you spec'd the shaft threads and the impeller threads? The theory of helical inclined plane fasteners has been around for, well, a long time. There's a reason for that. How about you post some pictures of the misfit application?

Like, a picture is worth a thousand words, right?
 
JetManiac

JetManiac

Stoked
Site Supporter
Vendor Account
Location
orlando
Iconicsuperpoop said:
Um, two things to consider.
1) purple loctite is made for fasteners under 1/4" in diameter.
2) blue loctite is actually recommended for stainless, no "activator" required.

This is direct from a loctite tech guy (yeah, not that they know all), and also readily available on their website. Not that hard to find this info.

In simple terms, the motor applies force in the direction to tighten. You have bigger issues. Have you spec'd the shaft threads and the impeller threads? The theory of helical inclined plane fasteners has been around for, well, a long time. There's a reason for that. How about you post some pictures of the misfit application?

Like, a picture is worth a thousand words, right?
Click to expand...

I think it needs to be 243 blue loctite for use on stainless without activator? Also it is more oil tolerant than 242.

What is the number for the purple loctite?
 
I

Iconicsuperpoop

Location
Here
If I remember correctly, you are right about the 243. The 242 is their all purpose stuff. I think the basic purple is 222. They have a detailed app. chart on their site. I haven't used it in a while, but I'll see if I can link it.
Luckily, I'm busy as fluk right now, so it may take me a while.

I think the chart had a yellow background, with blue writing? Totally comprehensive, with ALL of their products. I'll try to find it when I get a minute.

I'm still curious about the o.p.'s issue.
 
623pwr

623pwr

Location
Off Site
You may need a shim behind the prop if it's cut back too far? But the prop would probably bottom out and only turn one way by hand.
 
Prickster

Prickster

Location
Florida
ThatTowerGuy has a limp wrist, so that's his issue. LOL. But honestly, I have seen it happen once on his ski after being pulled from the inlet. Ski fired up, when shut off, stopped abruptly, and you can here the prop still spinning.
 
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