Noob w/ 2020 SJ

Hello all, I'm in the process of buying a new 2020 SJ and had a few questions. I do know how to ride already (owned an 89 550 but sold it 15 yrs ago and still kicking myself).
What octane and mix ratio to run?
Break in procedure needed or send it?
First mod to install a bilge pump?
Any Houston riders?

Thanks all in advance and good to know there is a forum full of knowledge to keep the sport alive.
 
No need for the expensive oils honestly. Many get away with the Walmart Supertech for ~$14 a gallon. I use the Quicksilver semi synthetic which is ~$20 a gallon at Wally World. The best deal on a "premium" oil is the Quicksilver full synthetic which is ~$40. As said, no need for a bilge pump unless you're doing subs or other tricks that get a lot of water in the ski.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Hello all, I'm in the process of buying a new 2020 SJ and had a few questions. I do know how to ride already (owned an 89 550 but sold it 15 yrs ago and still kicking myself).
What octane and mix ratio to run?
Break in procedure needed or send it?
First mod to install a bilge pump?
Any Houston riders?

Thanks all in advance and good to know there is a forum full of knowledge to keep the sport alive.

I mix with yamalube at 45:1 and 1oz of stabil-storage per 2.5ga of gas.

My ski runs MUCH better with ethanol free fuel. I have high compression, so I mix 4:1 89 ethanol free with 110 race gas. You don't need to do this for a stock motor, but definitely run ethanol free.

Ok, just thought a bilge pump was a must have.

Depends on your riding. For hacking around at the lake you do not need a bilge. Any surf riding you should consider a bilge. There is no reason to remove the stock siphon. Run both.

You can glue the bilge down but a bracket is worth the money. The rotary switches are the best I have used by far. A fuse is recommended but not required. I use the rule 500 but I might switch to a rule 800 someday.

You need bilge, bilge hose, bilge outlet, bilge bracket, switch, connectors for switch (2 bullet connectors if using the rotary switch), piece of ground wire and 2 ring terminals. Or just send @JetManiac a message, tell him you need a kit and he will send you everything you need.

No need for the expensive oils honestly. Many get away with the Walmart Supertech for ~$14 a gallon. I use the Quicksilver semi synthetic which is ~$20 a gallon at Wally World. The best deal on a "premium" oil is the Quicksilver full synthetic which is ~$40. As said, no need for a bilge pump unless you're doing subs or other tricks that get a lot of water in the ski.

Yeah, but no. I used to run walmart oil. I often ended up with a frothy mess. We were having issues with water ingestion and one of the guys switched to yamalube Quicksilver (we switched to yamalube later due to an availble discount). His issues resolved and so did the froth.

So I did a test. I put generic TCW3 in a glass jar with water and the same with yamalube. I shook them violently and set them down. The yamalube instantly seperated like cooking oil, but the generic TCW3 turned into froth. The dyes and etc disolved into the water and discolored the water for hours.

In the surf, water gets into the motor. 2-stokes are best for stand ups because they will sputter on water but keep running and push it through. Not the case with low quality oils that mix with water and foul up plugs and carbs. (Not patronizing you, just explaining it for anyone reading who doesn't realize this.)

Not all oils are the same. You don't have to break the bank buying top shelf oils, and other brands than yamalube, like quicksilver, work just fine. But some generics are best saved for boats and couches. They don't belong in a stand up. If you are have a generic, mix it with some water. If it disolves, your ski is likely underperforming in the surf.

Yamalube or klotz. No need for bilge pump as long as you keep the stock siphon. Keep it stock for the summer and ride this piss out of it. When winter comes see where your at and mod accordingly. Have fun

This is the best advice. The goal your first year is ride a lot and make friends in the sport. If you need something like a bilge then okay, but otherwise ride it a lot, budget some money and upgrade later. My suggestion for mods in your first year is that if you can't install it in 2 hours with basic tools, skip it. That limits you to bilge, steering turn plate, handle bars, primer, etc. Bars and turn plates are nice if you are tall and feel cramped, but again, completely not necessary. New skis shouldn't need primers. The new superjets come with a solid prop so no need to mess with any of that.
 
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This is by far my favorite YouTube channel. He just did a test of cheap vs. quality 2-stroke oil. I love that he's not sponsored by anyone so his results in my belief are trustworthy. I have to agree that cheap doesn't always save money in the end. When I worked at the marine dealer we repeatedly told customers to avoid Motomaster 2-stroke oils. Mist listened but the few that didn't always paid for a rebuild. It was fun catching tgem in the act too...ask them what oil were they using, you could tell by the hardened carbon deposits and cylinder gouging it was Motomaster lol. They would respond with we use high quality stuff...then we find the empty Motomaster bottles hidden in the bilge compartments of their boats lol. We'd show them the empty bottles and ask sooo this is was used in the lawnmower then?? Lol...use a decent oil, Lucas land and sea is good stuff and reasonably affordable. Yamalube is probably your best bet because you know they won't make an oil that will cost them an engine in the warranty period.

 
I've been following him for about a year now and absolutely love his testing methods. I just watched his newest one with cutting fluids...he tries everything it seems lol...bacon grease...hahahaha :cool:
 
My buddy leaves his 2019 sj at my house. He uses pennezoil 2 stroke marine oil with a 45:1 ratio. Any tcw-3 2 stroke oil will work. Don’t worry about gas type we’ve used all of them in there and it works just fine. We broke it in by running it under 1/4 throttle for the first tank of gas, 1/2 throttle for the second tank, and 3/4-full for the third tank. I’ve heard from many other people that you have to either go balls out or very slow for the break in period but we just decided to play it safe. Only need a bilge pump if you like to sub it or do fire hydrants over and over. Hope this helps!
 
Although it is true you can run any tcw-2 or 3 two-stroke oil in your ski, it doesn't mean it's a good idea. As stated before, cheap oil has it's issues ranging from mixing with water giving you a frothy water-laden foam which still has to try and lubricate your crank bearings with a reduced viscosity from being thinned down...or you get something that leaves behind hard carbon deposits that can score a cylinder and/or not have the needed viscosity to protect the engine after a certain temperature range. Again, as mentioned, when I worked in the marine industry repairing 2-stroke outboard motors we frequently encountered people using very cheap name brand tcw rated 2-stroke oil that was the sole cause for the engine failure. Saving 8 dollars on oil most likely will cost you an engine rebuild later if not sooner.

As for fuel...again yes you can run any fuel grade but that doesn't mean it's a good idea. Once you get into the 150 psi and higher compression range you need to go up to at least 91 octane to prevent detonation. Octane numbers are not liquid horsepower and I so wish they would stop publicizing it on the pumps as such. Octane is the controlling factor to how the combustion burns. Too low of an octane and you can get pre-ignition or detonation. Detonation while giving ultimate performance also means that performance will last about 15 minutes and then you get holes melted into your pistons. Another factor to keep in mind with the garbage 87 octane fuels out there is that they are all blended with a minimum of 10% ethanol. On a personal watercraft, you do not want ethanol. If any water gets into the fuel, whether in the carbs or tank, the ethanol will absorb it to a point. Once it has absorbed as much as it can it settles to the bottom of the tank and begins a cycle called phase separation which leaves a stagnant layer of water/ethanol blend in the bottom of your tank. It is totally useless, continues to mix with the free floating ehtanol and further taking away that ethanol from the fuel. Since 10% of your octane is the ethanol, you will begin to lose 10% of your octane quantity resulting in numbers like an 82 octane or lower depending on how long the phase separation is permitted to steal more ethanol from the fuel...this also applies to the in ground tanks at the service stations. You have no idea if they have problems with water getting in their tanks or not, so you also have no idea if your 87 octane is truly at 87 when you pump it into your tank or gas cans. Lower octane = detonation...it can't resist igniting before it's scheduled time. That's why automotive engines have knock sensors, when they detect a knock from detonation the computer retards the timing to prevent it from happening again.

And then there is also the damage ethanol blended fuels will do to aluminum carburetor bodies and fuel shutoff valves. Say you had some reason come up that you couldn't ride the next year, and you get busy forgetting about the ski which has been sitting now since the end of last ride season with say 87 octane (10% ethanol blended) fuel in the system. In 12-14 months the aluminum carb bodies start to deteriorate, add summer heat to that mix and you have a recipe for disaster. I had to show a customer what it does to carburetors 2 years ago when his carburetor crumbled in my hand while disassembling it. Fuel and oil quality do matter. Just like the old adage says, just because you could or you would use it, doesn't necessarily mean you should. Research your local fuel companies to see who adds ethanol to their 91 or 93 octanes before just randomly buying it. Up here in my neck of the woods, the only company to publicize no ethanol in their 91 octane is Shell (bear in mind that companies will typically not publicize something falsley as it's their heads on the block for damages incurred by false advertising). Everyone else adds ethanol to all octanes, I know because I spent a good two very full weeks going through all the documentation I could find on all the fuel companies I could find locally to see what options are out there for ethanol free 91 rated fuel. Do not listen to "use any oil or any fuel". Just because it works, doesn't mean it's good for the engine. You can drink booze all day every day and live a long time but it doesn't mean it's good for you lol...same goes for the diet you put your engine on lol.
 
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Awesome. Thanks for all the advice. There is ethanol free gas near me and first gallon of oil is yamalube. Prob go over to quicksilver after that. I was thinking of running middle grade octane 89 ethanol free. Gonna try to take it easy on break it. Can one even ride at 1/4 throttle for first tank of gas? Figure I probably meet a few folks while I’m out on the lake. Don’t know of a Houston group.
 
Typically for break in you just want to vary your throttle all the time. Don't hold it at one position for more than a minute or less if you can. Try to stay off of full throttle, only run full open for not more than 30-45 seconds at random times. Go by this for the first three tanks and you should be in a good position there on, just use common sense about it after the first three for the next two or three. An easy on the engine break in period will allow the rings etc to seat and make their place in their homes far better than wide open right out of the gate.
 
Location
FL
I bought a new 2017 Superjet a couple of years ago, so here's my input.

-Ethanol free gas is highly recommended.
-I run a ~45:1 ratio. Quicksilver Full Synthetic has been good to me. No froth and no problem with water ingestion. I plan to upgrade to a better oil though.
-The break in procedure isn't too strict, but I would recommend taking it easy on the throttle (50%) for the first tank.
-Get a bilge pump kit from JetManiac if you ride surf.
-Invest in some good anti corrosion spray (like Fluid Film) to cover your engine bay if you ride salt water.
-There's a few different directions you could go in for first mods. Searching around the forum you will find a lot of advice for that. Personally, I would start with mods that make you more comfortable on the ski before you try to squeeze more power out of it. Getting some hydroturf in the tray with underpad, aftermarket handlebars, and maybe a properly mounted footstrap will go a long way.
 

Quinc

Buy a Superjet
Location
California
This is by far my favorite YouTube channel. He just did a test of cheap vs. quality 2-stroke oil. I love that he's not sponsored by anyone so his results in my belief are trustworthy. I have to agree that cheap doesn't always save money in the end. When I worked at the marine dealer we repeatedly told customers to avoid Motomaster 2-stroke oils. Mist listened but the few that didn't always paid for a rebuild. It was fun catching tgem in the act too...ask them what oil were they using, you could tell by the hardened carbon deposits and cylinder gouging it was Motomaster lol. They would respond with we use high quality stuff...then we find the empty Motomaster bottles hidden in the bilge compartments of their boats lol. We'd show them the empty bottles and ask sooo this is was used in the lawnmower then?? Lol...use a decent oil, Lucas land and sea is good stuff and reasonably affordable. Yamalube is probably your best bet because you know they won't make an oil that will cost them an engine in the warranty period.



Watching more of his videos looks like best thing we could do is soak all of our internal parts in motorkote. He runs his lawnmower with water instead of oil and after an hour there is no drop in compression!
 
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